Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?

[ChillyB]

Additionally, the fit of my tube into the receiver is so sloppy that I am quite disappointed in it.  I'm wondering if an aftermarket tube will have better thread engagement.  This is garbage.  Inexcusable poor QC.  

[GunCat]

On 9/23/2018 at 5:38 PM, kurtm said:

Not bagging on the old Stoegy, just need some info. How common is this failure? Lower locking lugs recesses broke out of this barrel at about the 3000 round mark. Anyone else had this happen?

Barrel mystery solved...this is a M2000 barrel. How do I know? Because we have a M2000 in the shop now with exactly the same lug recess failure. So Kurt, I don't how common this failure is, but we know it happened at least twice.

[ChillyB]

Is it known whether the M2000 barrels are same as M3000 barrel except for the barrel extension? 

[GunCat]

52 minutes ago, ChillyB said:

Is it known whether the M2000 barrels are same as M3000 barrel except for the barrel extension? 

I'll try to do a comparison of the two when I am in the shop tomorrow.

 

As far as the 120 degree expansions on your mag tube...If that is a factory design it is recent change, I've not seen that on any previous M3000 tubes. (Thomas Hart at MOA Precision would likely know the details)

Edited December 27, 2018 by GunCat

[louu]

On 12/25/2018 at 7:20 PM, ChillyB said:

Additionally, the fit of my tube into the receiver is so sloppy that I am quite disappointed in it.  I'm wondering if an aftermarket tube will have better thread engagement.  This is garbage.  Inexcusable poor QC.  

You can call Stoger, they're actually pretty cool and take care of all their customers. 

[ChillyB]

Recent change to the tube makes sense.  Mine is smooth amd quiet, didnt require polishing. Not happy that it wasnt held on with loctite, or that the thread fit seemed so loose, but removing it did give me easy acess for some blending.  Then I put it back on with green loctite, the kind in a chapstick tube.

 

It feeds better now but not yet satisfied.  The lifter still causes crimps to hit the "septum" between barrel and mag tube except now the offending edge is chamfered a bit more so theyll slide past.  I want the shells to not hit it at all.  

[ChillyB]

4 minutes ago, louu said:

You can call Stoger, they're actually pretty cool and take care of all their customers. 

Thats good to know.  But I did some blending and put it on with loctite so I accept that I own it now.  

[kurtm]

Thanks Mr. Rose!!! I had been told it was a 3000, but to honest I didn't look. When I found that problem I was done with it! Sorry to seem like I was bagging on the 3000!

On a very positive note, they sent it back and in 2 weeks got a brand new barrel back, no questions asked! Good customer service!

While we are at it, I got a bunch of Benelli  parts I just don't need. Shoot me you phone # and we can chat about it! Thanks

!

[mpeltier]

So it seems the signifcance of the part  is less significant than you thought as it applies to the M3000.

[ChillyB]

I massaged the loading port, and think I need to work forward toward the magazine a bit more.  The shell rim is just visible.  I still need to stuff my thumb in there to click it past the shell stop.  Either the port work needs to advance forward or the shell stop edge needs to move rearward, or both. 

 

I dont recall reading of anyone shaving the front tip of the magazine shell stop.  This is part number G03, otherwise called the bolt release.  Did I miss it?  Is this being done?

Edited December 28, 2018 by ChillyB

[louu]

35 minutes ago, ChillyB said:

I massaged the loading port, and think I need to work forward toward the magazine a bit more.  The shell rim is just visible.  I still need to stuff my thumb in there to click it past the shell stop.  Either the port work needs to advance forward or the shell stop edge needs to move rearward, or both. 

 

I dont recall reading of anyone shaving the front tip of the magazine shell stop.  This is part number G03, otherwise called the bolt release.  Did I miss it?  Is this being done?

Where is the serial number? Just wondering if they moved it yet on the 3000

[ChillyB]

Not moved.  Still limiting port work on lower starboard edge.  

[ChillyB]

My port work so far has been conservative but is a starting point.  If I had a do-over I would not have touched the region aft and below the mag tube entry.  My intention was to create a funnel into the tube but what happens is the crimp of the incoming shell jams between the rim of the preceding shell and the tapered floor mag tube entry.  I think this will be resolved when I open the loading port forward some more.  Photo shows the shell orientation when it locks up.  When this happens the shell isnt just difficult to load, it flat out WILL NOT feed no matter how hard I push. 

 

My advice is to not try to form a funnel into the tube by tapering the floor of the entrance.  Break the edge, chamfer a bit, dont make it a funnel. 

 

In the photo you can also see where my port work approached the serial number.  1,8XX,XXX serial range. Brand new Dec 2018 gun. 

 

Edited December 28, 2018 by ChillyB

[ChillyB]

In the above post you can see the shells jam up in the funnelled area because of the kink in their alignment.  Lowering the back of the rear shell will help to remedy this.  Until now I hadnt messed with the trigger guard but this condition gives me a reason to do so.  I opted to grind a chute instead simply cutting it away.  I'm thinking this will help give some lateral stability.  I started with a dremel sanding roll, finished off by wrapping a shell in 200 grit sandpaper, rubbing it back and forth to smooth out the chute.  GO SLOW WITH THE DREMEL.  Easy to take off too much plastic and I nearly did. 

 

I realize I'm not doing anything that hasnt been pioneered before.  I'm giving my perspective of what I'm doing and why I'm doing it.  Every cut should be an attempted solution to a problem.  My concern is that I'm not experienced with these shotgun techniques so its quite possible that I will try to solve a technique problem with a dremel.  So I'll go very slow and hope for some advice from those who have been through this. 

Edited December 28, 2018 by ChillyB

[ChillyB]

Here is a photo of a shell in the tube.  Not much exposed shell so I have to really hook a thumb in there to get shells past the latch.  I think I'll advance the front of the port, sharpen the radius, and raise the starboard side off the port.  But before doing any more cutting I'm going to use it as-is.  I dont compete so there is no rush.  

[ChillyB]

Cutting on Stoegers is as natural as taking the next hit of crack.  But I can stop anytime I want, right?  RIGHT?!

 

I moved the port forward a bit more, raised the cut on starboard side, and the loading jam where the crimp overrode the preceding shell's rim is greatly reduced.

[kurtm]

I would say significantly smaller the the significant part you mention, but still very significant in the fact it was broke!

[Vlad]

6 hours ago, kurtm said:

I would say significantly smaller the the significant part you mention, but still very significant in the fact it was broke!

 

I don't think anyone ever sang the praises of the M2000 model, so it seems this may be the wrong thread?

[MRF]

Hi all, read all of this thread and just bought an M3000.  Thank you all for the incredible wealth of info.

 

Regarding mods,  is the MOA heavybolt a good investment or is it just a nice to have?

[ChillyB]

Investment, as in something that pays for itself?  If that is your definition then almost certainly not.   My recent production M3000 eats 1-1/8 oz target loads like candy straight out of the box.

 

You may aid the discussion by advising your reason to want to shoot creampuff loads out of a 3" inertia gun.  If goal is to shoot cheaper ammo (assuming it doesnt already run with cheap ammo) then run the numbers on how many rounds of cheap stuff one must shoot to break even at $90.  

 

If goal is to help mitigate recoil sensitivity issues then I think its worth considering.  I had surgery on my shoulder so I can appreciate spending $90 to enable me to use a gun.  But maybe an old 2-3/4" Remington 1100 would be a better choice for a bad shoulder. 

[MRF]

After reading your reply I think I’ll just buy better ammo rather than trying to chase reliability with junk rounds.  Would be a poor ROI.

 

Thanks!

Edited February 12, 2019 by MRF

[021411]

First  I apologize for not reading all 130+ pages..

 

I took two M3K's out this morning to pattern and I noticed my friend's shotgun was having very random dead triggers. Wasn't a click but rather felt like it never re-cocked and couldn't press on the trigger. I'm guessing the bolt short stroked? I consider his M3K broken in as it has been to a multiple range sessions and matches already. His shotgun also has MOA's reduced recoil spring and can cycle 1145 FPS and faster shells just fine. I spoke to him and he said he also experienced the dead trigger in matches.

Ammo issue or is there something else?

[mark97se]

My first guess is that they might need to go back for repair. That is not a common issue. If there is a shell in the chamber, the hammer should be cocked and it should drop when you pull the trigger. When this issues happens, you need to look in the bolt handle slot and see if the hammer is dropped already...sounds like the hammer is following the bolt home. More common would be the action not going fully into battery and when you drop the hammer, it hits the back of the firing pin, but doesn't go off...but you don't seem to be describing that.

[mark97se]

If the bolt short strokes, the chamber would have any empty shell in it, or no shell at all.

[021411]

6 minutes ago, mark97se said:

If the bolt short strokes, the chamber would have any empty shell in it, or no shell at all.

A shell was loaded each time.