Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

Have any M3000 users had any issues with the trigger group pin walking itself out, and If so do you have a fix?

 

[alombardo15]

Hey Guys,

I've posted on this before, I was opening my loading port and got a tad aggressive and slightly grinned into my mag tube. Its not big at all and stopped right when i saw the threads. Do you recommend filling the hole with anything...I was thinking silicone or JB weld....? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'll see if I can get some pics tonight and upload them so you can see.

 

Best,

Anthony  

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

4 minutes ago, alombardo15 said:

Hey Guys,

I've posted on this before, I was opening my loading port and got a tad aggressive and slightly grinned into my mag tube. Its not big at all and stopped right when i saw the threads. Do you recommend filling the hole with anything...I was thinking silicone or JB weld....? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'll see if I can get some pics tonight and upload them so you can see.

 

Best,

Anthony  

I did the same thing, but I did it on purpose so that I knew where to grind the tube when I pulled it out. It let me get deeper into the port without interference from the tube itself.

[hump]

Has anyone tried the 1080fps Herters shells? I use them in my o/u and ran a box thru my M3K without any issues but still don't trust them to use in a match. Most of the guys I shoot with only run 1200fps shells and higher. 

[DipSchmidt]

Hello everyone,

I've been wanting to get into competitive shooting for a few years now (namely 3 gun) and the last thing to get me going was deciding on which shotgun to use. Thanks to a friend suggesting the M3000 then linking me to this discussion I was able to make a decision. Thanks to all of the great information and sharing of what works, what doesn't, and little tricks to making the gun run better the decision was a no brainer. I was about to buy myself a Beretta 1301 Comp, but couldn't be happier with the money saved going this route. So obviously I picked up an M3000 and ran about 700 rounds through it to make sure I wanted to cut into the gun and make it mine forever. Aside from a few failure to extracts (due to what I'm guessing was my use of grease as opposed to oil) this gun has ran flawlessly. As I'm sure everyone here already knows, Tom at MOA Precision makes getting the gun ready for a match a breeze with his competition package. I've been to about 10 matches now with the gun at just shy of 1,900 rounds with it still running strong.  I just want to say thank you for all of the valuable information from the last four years or so that helped guide me in the right direction. Again, thanks to Tom at MOA I was able to get the gun back in action within a couple of days after I broke the breech bolt latch trying to change out the lifter.

A quick video from today's shotgun only head to head match.

-Kyle

 

Edited December 11, 2016 by DipSchmidt

[mark97se]

For all you Stoeger shooter out there...there is a rare malfunction for the Stoegers (M3K, M3000, M3020) that sometimes causes 2 shells to pop out of the tube at the same time (bad jam). It usually happens only with small/light shooters and hotter loads. Out of the 5 of us, we only ever had this issue with Becky on the M3000 and little Andrew on the M3020. It seems more common on the 20 ga guns. If you know anyone that has had this happen, please have them contact me...I engineered a new part that fixes that issue 100%. It is a cheap and easy fix. I gave one of my prototypes to the Turk engineers, but I'm not sure that they are going to update the part since so few people seem to have this problem.  It is the shell catch assembly, or specifically they call it the "carrier latch". It needs a rim/ridge along the top edge, similar to what the M2 has. RCI/XRAIL can perform this mod for anyone that asks about it...it is not listed on their site. 

-Mark Yackley

Edited December 12, 2016 by mark97se

[Vlad]

Hi Mark, I managed to do that all of twice, but I'm pretty sure in every case I had accidentally hit the bolt release button so in my case I'd call it user error. 

On a side note, I have a big belated thank your for Mark and Becky. At BRM3G I managed to break my ejector in my Stoeger and after running into the Yackley's and asking if they had a spare, they ended up ripping out a part out of their spare gun and we did redneck gunsmithing in the parking lot with completely inappropriate tools but got be back to functional. 

So a big thanks to Yackley clan

[mark97se]

24 minutes ago, Vlad said:

Hi Mark, I managed to do that all of twice, but I'm pretty sure in every case I had accidentally hit the bolt release button so in my case I'd call it user error. 

On a side note, I have a big belated thank your for Mark and Becky. At BRM3G I managed to break my ejector in my Stoeger and after running into the Yackley's and asking if they had a spare, they ended up ripping out a part out of their spare gun and we did redneck gunsmithing in the parking lot with completely inappropriate tools but got be back to functional. 

So a big thanks to Yackley clan

Vlad, glad we could help you out!  As far as the jam goes, my part solves a different issue.  While I have not done what you did(hitting the release), that is a danger for all guns with a 2 piece shell catch.  I saw a guy lose a shoot-off when he did that with his 1301.  We eliminated that possibility by modifying the Redneck Tactical M2 extended release to fit a stoeger.  10 min with a hammer and dremel and we have made sure it won't happen to us.  I recommend that type of extended release for all 2 piece shell catch shotguns.

[JohnnyD]

Are there any videos on installing the MOA disconnector?  I just ordered my M3K today and did an order to MOA for a tube, follower and disconnector.

Thanks

[3GLewie]

About 225 rounds through my new M3K today. 50 various deer slugs were dead on at about 75yards. 100 Winchester AA's 1300 fps and around 75 Federal bulk 1200fps. Zero malfunctions. I think I'm going to really like blaster shotgun stages now.


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[Bimmer]

Stupid question:  Is there a Stoeger M3000/M3K 18" barrel out there?

I'm cross-shopping the M3000 against a Benelli M2, and one big issue is that I want to buy as an extra barrel as short a barrel as possible (non-NFA) for HD or SHTF or whatever.  Benelli makes 18" barrels for the M2, but I can't find anything comparable for a Stoeger...  I know I could cut down a Stoeger barrel and make it work, but I'd rather avoid that.

[Steve RA]

To answer your question - no.  If you don't want to make a shorter one, get a gunsmith to do it for you.

[Bimmer]

18 hours ago, Steve RA said:

To answer your question - no.  If you don't want to make a shorter one, get a gunsmith to do it for you.

I don't mind cutting down a barrel — it would be fun project — but it would be easier to just buy one off the shelf. 

Alternatively, I thought maybe there's somebody out there selling aftermarket 18.5" M3000 barrels...

[Tank0211]

Hey all, so I've read through the entire thread now & paid special attention to when the M3K comes in. This is my first shotgun, though, & some things are not exactly clear to me even after reading it all & I have a few questions I've come up w/ to ask, but I'm sure I may have more in the future! For reference, I have the newest M3K w/ the most recent 'stock' port mod. Here's what I've added/installed so far:

 

-TTI hammer/ trigger springs & pre-fit lifter

-MOA/Nordic +8 extension tube kit

-MOA low drag follower & double headed safety

 

*Not yet installed:

-Benelli extractor (Back-Ordered)/ spring  

 Anyone know the part# for the Benelli pin that goes w/ this set?

 I can't find the info anywhere I've looked thus far.

-High Viz front sight # PM1002 (shipping to me atm)

 

So questions:

(Disclaimer: Please be exact, in referencing specifications, brands, types &/ or amounts when answering these questions,

as I'm completely new to shotguns &, really, shooting in general.)

 

1. What shells should I use to break in this gun?

1a. What type of shells do I need for competitions?

2. What type of chokes do I need to compete, specifically, for 3-Gun?

2a. What are the applications of each type as it pertains to 3-Gun?

      Included w/ the gun:

    ***M-lead/ F-steel

  ****IC-lead/ M-steel

*****C-lead/ IC-steel

3. How much has everyone adjusted their M3K's as far as drop, cast & shortening the stock? I know it's an individual thing & even after reading about long-gun adjustments & practicing shouldering the gun I'm just not sure what to do. I don't seem to quite have a repeatable shouldering atm, but I feel I"m pretty close. I can't see how you can adjust the cast, w/ the included shims, as the pattern on them only allows for drop & doesn't allow them to be stacked. The drop at comb on my gun came at 1-3/8' & I've read you want around 1-1/2" - 1-3/4" here, which seems right as when I shoulder the gun I seem to see just a bit too much of the rail. What I really can't figure is if I need to trim the stock at all. When I shoulder the gun I seem to not be consistent enough, that I can tell,  w/ where my thumb knuckle/ nose distance is each time. Some times it's like 4 fingers & some times is near the 2 fingers recommended, but overall seems closer to 3 fingers after many shoulderings. As a tradesman I KNOW you can only cut once in most situations!!! UGH!?! Is this something I might NEED to have a pro look at or is it not that big a deal? TBH, after all the shouldering I've done the gun seems very close to a fit, but then again, from reading, gun fit precision is very important & I want to make sure I've done this properly so I'm as best set up as I can be for success.

3a. What does the '65' & '50' mean on the shims that come w/ the gun mean? It comes w/ 2-65 shims & 1-50 shim. I'm Guessing it's to do w/ the thickness, but what scale is it referring to?

 

That's all for now.

I'd like to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. It's been very helpful & I appreciate it all quite a bit.

As well, I'd greatly appreciate any answers, help or suggestions you all might have for me as a new guy/ shooter.

 

~T

Edited January 28, 2017 by Tank0211

[BMB]

Hey guys,  I have started having a issue with my M3K I cannot seem to figure out on my own. Hopefully the collective knowledge here can diagnose it for me. When the magazine tube is fully loaded, 10 rounds with a Nordic +6, the cartridge drop lever doesn't release the carrier latch.  This seems to be happening 80% of the time regardless if I press the trigger or cartridge drop lever.  When there is only 4 or 5 shells, half full, in the tube it works just fine.

 

Some of the mods done o this M3K, opened up the loading port follower still has plenty of support.  Tom at MOA installed a TTI lifter and under cut the trigger gaurd. Nordic +6, I previously had a +5 and am still using that spring since it was trimmed a little longer and a MOA follower.  That's all I can think of.

 

I have done a detailed strip and clean with degreaser, nylon brush and compressed air to see if there were any metal shavings or debris gumming the works but the problem persists.

 

Thanks for any help or advice,

Brandon

[12Bravo]

Polish the edge of the shell stop that contacts the shells. The rough casting of the part can jam things up when you add the pressure of more shells on it. 

[mark97se]

Brandon, is this happening with shells that you have practiced loading with?  Loading practice will start to dent the shell bases on dummies and live shells...much sooner that you might think.  It might not be very noticeable, but it makes a BIG difference to the shell catch.  If this is happening with new shells while shooting, let me know...there are a couple of things that it could be.

[BMB]

12Bravo, Polished and it ejected 25 for 25 from a fully loaded tube.  Thanks for the advice.  Mark, I didn't see your response before I polished the latch but you are correct that it was happening on shells that I had been using for loading practice. I'm going to keep my eye on the problem to make sure it's resolved and test with new shells.

 

Thanks for the help,

Brandon

[mark97se]

Wanted to address an issue here that I don't think has been covered.  About 6 months after we got our Stoegers, Tim's gun started having issues with shells not releasing from the tube when the latch was tripped (for say an empty chamber start).  While this can happen from removal of too much material on the latch side of the gun/tube...further inspection showed that the latch/latch pin/receiver holes had too much play in them.  This slop resulted in the latch sometimes hanging out just far enough to stay on a shell even when the latch was tripped.  We estimated that during loading practice in those 1st 6 months, Tim had loaded somewhere between 15,000-25,000 shells...enough that the slamming back and forth had loosened up the holes in the receiver and latch.  The simple solution that RCI(XRAIL) came up with was to drill out the receiver and latch for a traditional 1/8" roll pin.  That tightened it up to better than it came from the factory, and now (1.5 years later with 2 shooters sharing it) it is still good to go. The factory tolerances are a bit on the loose side, so the more you shoot or load, the quicker this can happen.  This is a cheap solution for anyone with this issue.

 

-Mark, Becky, Tim, Sean, and Andrew Yackley 

[CharlieD]

Tons of good info, thanks Mark.

[BMB]

Mark, thanks for the heads up on the latch loosening up. Definitely will keep my eye on it for any slop.

 

-Brandon 

[Tank0211]

On 1/31/2017 at 4:04 PM, mark97se said:

Wanted to address an issue here that I don't think has been covered.  About 6 months after we got our Stoegers, Tim's gun started having issues with shells not releasing from the tube when the latch was tripped (for say an empty chamber start).  While this can happen from removal of too much material on the latch side of the gun/tube...further inspection showed that the latch/latch pin/receiver holes had too much play in them.  This slop resulted in the latch sometimes hanging out just far enough to stay on a shell even when the latch was tripped.  We estimated that during loading practice in those 1st 6 months, Tim had loaded somewhere between 15,000-25,000 shells...enough that the slamming back and forth had loosened up the holes in the receiver and latch.  The simple solution that RCI(XRAIL) came up with was to drill out the receiver and latch for a traditional 1/8" roll pin.  That tightened it up to better than it came from the factory, and now (1.5 years later with 2 shooters sharing it) it is still good to go. The factory tolerances are a bit on the loose side, so the more you shoot or load, the quicker this can happen.  This is a cheap solution for anyone with this issue.

 

-Mark, Becky, Tim, Sean, and Andrew Yackley 

 

MOA Carrier Latch Pin Upgrade

[JohnnyD]

I ran my new M3K through it's paces on Saturday to get it broken in some.  It was about 30* F and about 15* with the windchill.

 

Ran 250 rounds through it with only a few stoppages pulling the trigger as fast as I could empty the 12 round tube.  I think 3 out of the 5 malfunctions I had were user related as I don't think I was shouldering the gun as hard as I should have been.  Another was from 2.75 dram Rio's that I think were just too light.  The last one just didn't feed right and the shell went into the chamber as a weird angle and got caught hitting the bottom of the chamber.  I was able to rack it back and it slide into the chamber and fired fine.

 

100 rounds - Remington 3.25 Dram 1oz Game Loads

50 rounds - Winchester 3.25 Dram 1 1/8 Game Loads

50 rounds - Federal 3 Dram 1 1/8 Promo/Top Gun Loads

25 rounds - Estate 3 Dram 1 1/8 Loads

25 rounds - Rio 2.75 Dram 1oz Loads

 

Needs to say I was pretty impressed, my shoulder was a lil stiff the next morning but not multicolored.  All the extra clothes being so damn cold probably helped.

 

Hopefully going to be able to test some slug loads out in the next couple of weeks which at that point the gun should be fully broken in.

[TitoR]

 

MOA Carrier Latch Pin Upgrade

I have a similar problem (keep losing circlip holding carrier latch pin) with my 930 JM PRO and thought about a roll pin. Problem is that in the JM Pro there is no hole at the opposite end to remove the roll pin. So, does the Stoeger have a hole to remove the roll pin?



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[BMB]

On 2/7/2017 at 3:00 PM, TitoR said:

I have a similar problem (keep losing circlip holding carrier latch pin) with my 930 JM PRO and thought about a roll pin. Problem is that in the JM Pro there is no hole at the opposite end to remove the roll pin. So, does the Stoeger have a hole to remove the roll pin?



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The stoeger m3000 / m3k has a hole that goes from next to the loading port and comes out the bottom of the ejection port, with a shelf inside the reciever that the clip sits in.