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Hotchkiss

Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?

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Did a port job on my M3K (thanks Tom and Pat for photos).

While I can push/pull a file and hold a dremel, loading week or strong hand is out for a few more weeks due to shoulder surgery 3 weeks ago (labrum tear).

I tried a few times week hand loading but the shoulder doesn't like rotating and moving in that direction so I'm holding here before I decide if I should go any more (kinda doubt it).

Like to get opinions:

rI7p7gb.jpg

I don't think I need to go more forward on the front, or deeper on the sides but my main question is do I go more forward on the sides per these lines:

xwBoYRT.jpg

Ex8MnJE.jpg

ETA: I still need to clean up the trigger guard funnel cut but not sure how low to go.

Edited by muddywings

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Quick question, will a +8 or +9 Nordic tube bring an M3K to 12+1? Thanks!

Andy

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+8 gives you 12 in the tube. You may get 13 sometimes, depending on the shells. My +9 allows 14 in the gun if 4 or more of the shells are slugs.

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Did a port job on my M3K (thanks Tom and Pat for photos).

While I can push/pull a file and hold a dremel, loading week or strong hand is out for a few more weeks due to shoulder surgery 3 weeks ago (labrum tear).

I tried a few times week hand loading but the shoulder doesn't like rotating and moving in that direction so I'm holding here before I decide if I should go any more (kinda doubt it).

Like to get opinions:

rI7p7gb.jpg

I don't think I need to go more forward on the front, or deeper on the sides but my main question is do I go more forward on the sides per these lines:

xwBoYRT.jpg

Ex8MnJE.jpg

ETA: I still need to clean up the trigger guard funnel cut but not sure how low to go.

Be CAREFUL about cutting down where your marks are with the port cut as far forward as you have. If you take it to the red lines you drew and bevel the opening much at all, the tiny lip that keeps the follower from jumping out of the magazine tube will be just about gone. If it is removed all the way around the bottom and the follower pops free, the receiver will require professional help or it is scrapped. What you have so far looks pretty aggressive. I would leave it alone until you can try it with healthy range of motion.

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MOA Precision - I was able to find someone with an M3K in stock and I wanted to send it off to you for some work. Do I need an order number or anything or can I just send it to you with a detailed page of the work I wanted completed?

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Sorry for the lame question, as I know I saw the info somewhere..... But, I can't find it now.

Just picked up a M3000, 24" and need to get myself a mag tube extension. What length will get me flush or just slightly beyond the muzzle?

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Just picked up a M3000, 24" and need to get myself a mag tube extension. What length will get me flush or just slightly beyond the muzzle?

are you shopping by how it looks for what it does? +6 will be flush with 26", +5 will probably be a bit under flush in a 24".

You shouldn't really worry about flush though

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Just picked up a M3000, 24" and need to get myself a mag tube extension. What length will get me flush or just slightly beyond the muzzle?

are you shopping by how it looks for what it does? +6 will be flush with 26", +5 will probably be a bit under flush in a 24".

You shouldn't really worry about flush though

Not so worried about looks as not extending the gun so much. It's going to be a multi purpose shotgun with some courses and USPSA shotgun matches so I don't want to add much to the length

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+6 carbon arms will put you an inch or so past extended choke on a M3K/3000. Plus it's a one piece tube that's polished stainless so the gun runs smoother.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkbe5ed754334d21efdc3a6d1f3110bc61.jpg

Edited by Hoosiershooter

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You can get a couple tubes, Most matches allow you to fully load after the start, only one I know of restricts the capacity after the start. The M3K holds I believe 5 so a +3 gets you to 'full capacity' for the one match, a +7 extends a bit, but it can save one reload. What you need to look at is how the matches you go to are generally set up. Is there time between arrays to load? Or would having a couple more shots eliminate a standing reload? Not much worse than hitting the poppers 1-2-3 and realizing that hte 3 birds you just launched won't break with the two shots you have left!

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So I was working on my buddies M3000 doing all the race goodies to it and stuck and snapped a 6 / 32 tap in the bolt release button. I have tried and tried to get the tap portion out but its pretty much stuck. Any ideas? can you buy that part from anywhere? (Just the little black MIM shell catch part with the button on it)

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Midwest gunworks also keeps them in stock, and processes orders much quicker than gunpartscorp. Your local gunsmith has probably removed DOZENS of broken taps, and might be convinced to do the job for a small fee.

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Finally getting around to polishing my magazine tube. For those that have done it, are y'all wet sanding or dry sanding? Tom, I know you recommend wet sanding with WD-40 or something similar, right? Got an assortment of 60, 100, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper. Are y'all applying anything to the tube after you finish polishing it?

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I just dry sanded mine and then rubbed it down with some rem oil, maybe, I did it awhile ago.

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I haven't polished mine, went with a stainless tube. But looking at it Id recommend 600 grit wet. If you want a really fine surface bump to 1000 wet.

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Finally getting around to polishing my magazine tube. For those that have done it, are y'all wet sanding or dry sanding? Tom, I know you recommend wet sanding with WD-40 or something similar, right? Got an assortment of 60, 100, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper. Are y'all applying anything to the tube after you finish polishing it?

Are you talking about the M3K or just a M3000? There is no need to on the M3K it has a coating on it.

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M3K is polished from the factory. If you are polishing an M3000 by hand you will want to go to at LEAST 320, 400 is better. Anything over that and the lube you put on it won't stay there. We lathe polish and then cross-hatch with scotch-brite like the cylinder walls on an engine rebuild.

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That is good to know about the scotchbrite. I have mine and my buddy's gun polished like a mirror. I have not had any issues, but can see the benifit of the cross hatch. What color pad? Green?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

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Dammit, it sounds like I need some finer grit sandpaper. I just have a regular M3000 that's run very well thus far. It does tend to be less reliable with the lighter loads, but that can be said for many M3000s and inertia guns. I thought it'd run reliably with Winchester AAs (2 3/4 dram, 1 1/8 oz., 1145fps), but again too light.

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I'm getting failures to extract with my M3000. I have the Benelli extractor & spring parts to swap out, but am a little confused on the pin that holds the extractor in place...am I correct in assuming I knock the pin out from the 1 o-clock position, and it comes out at the 4 o-clock position? Appreciate any help.

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Punch the pin from the half-blind side. Remember to deburr the extractor slot.

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