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Travis224

GP100 spring?

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Can a GP100 be resprung to get it close to S&W levels? I know that Smiths are great but a Ruger might be a feasable contender for hunting/steel shooting for me.

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Hit the search page and specify a search for the Revolver section. There is info.

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Can a GP100 be resprung to get it close to S&W levels? I know that Smiths are great but a Ruger might be a feasable contender for hunting/steel shooting for me.

GP100's are nice guns. They are built strong but they use a coil spring system instead of a leaf spring like the Smith's. You can get them smooth but not as light as the Smith and Wesson. You might try to PM COF on this forum and see how light he thinks you can go, I think he shoots a GP100 in IDPA.

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The Wilson Combat (Bill Wilson) GP-100 spring kit, and some simple polishing of the internal surfaces, gave me a butter-smooth 8 - 8.5 pound DA pull in the two GP-100s I use in competition. They will even light off CCI primers. I can recommend that simple and inexpensive spring kit.

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Great! I will do that, I did the search and geez, this is a wealth of info and get lost. It seems that the biggest hurdle witht the GP100 is the trigger..

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I have a GP100 with #8 TRS and #9 HS from Wolff which measures 5.5-6.0 pounds in DA and 2-2.5# in SA. I imagine some polishing of the internals would reduce those significantly as they're untouched right now. I've also never had a light strike with any type of primer, so if you ran Federals only you could also go lighter with the springs.

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Old thread, but this seems like the right place for the questions.

 

I want to go below a 9# hammer spring and see where the bottom is when shooting deep seated federal primers. 

 

1. Any disadvantage to just cutting coils off of a 10-12 pound spring rather than starting with a 9# spring? 

 

2. Any knowledge about bobbing  GP100 hammers? I.E. , does it make a noticeable improvement and is their a popular cut for the oem hammers?

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26 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Old thread, but this seems like the right place for the questions.

 

I want to go below a 9# hammer spring and see where the bottom is when shooting deep seated federal primers. 

 

1. Any disadvantage to just cutting coils off of a 10-12 pound spring rather than starting with a 9# spring? 

Cutting the coils off of a 10-12lb spring leaves you with a shorter 10-12lb spring...not a lighter spring. In some instances, it can even increase the spring weight some.

 

2. Any knowledge about bobbing  GP100 hammers? I.E. , does it make a noticeable improvement and is their a popular cut for the oem hammers?

I have no knowledge of your second question.

 

I did put a spring kit in my GP100, the lightest that I could find. While it did help the trigger pull, it is still nowhere close to being as good as my S&W (or old Python) triggers. The Python will light off any primer, the S&W is only Federal, and now the GP100 is only Federal...and they have to be crushed in to ignite. I thought, simple fix, just get an extended firing pin for the GP100...nope. The firing pin can't be changed in the GP100 I have.

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Appreciate the feedback.

 

I did not explain myself well. I understand that cutting coils does not reduce spring weight, it does reduce the amount the spring is compressed when the hammer is back however, given that 'spring force= spring constant * compression distance' was wondering if there was a disadvantage to reducing compression distance instead of reducing the spring constant (so long as you do not get so short that you are not compressing the spring somewhat when the hammer is fully forward).

 

Right now the lightest hammer spring I've found (9#) seems to be more than I need with deep seated Federals and that is with the oem hammer.

 

FWIW. My super sexy revolver smith tuned (BossHoss) 929 Smith seems to want to run at 6# for match level reliability, my GP100 with internals polished and a spring kit is at 7 3/4 but comparing primer indents makes it appear that I have room to reduce hammer spring weight and then there is the hammer bob question. 

 

 

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23 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Appreciate the feedback.

 

I did not explain myself well. I understand that cutting coils does not reduce spring weight, it does reduce the amount the spring is compressed when the hammer is back however, given that 'spring force= spring constant * compression distance' was wondering if there was a disadvantage to reducing compression distance instead of reducing the spring constant (so long as you do not get so short that you are not compressing the spring somewhat when the hammer is fully forward).

 

Right now the lightest hammer spring I've found (9#) seems to be more than I need with deep seated Federals and that is with the oem hammer.

 

FWIW. My super sexy revolver smith tuned (BossHoss) 929 Smith seems to want to run at 6# for match level reliability, my GP100 with internals polished and a spring kit is at 7 3/4 but comparing primer indents makes it appear that I have room to reduce hammer spring weight and then there is the hammer bob question. 

 

 

I cant see any problem cutting gown a 10 to see where it fails, 

that said on my Super GP100 in 357 I cut 1.5 coils off the 9lb spring and went from a 6.5lb pull to a 6 and started having light strikes, I tried fitting a Bowen extended firing pin and that made no difference in ignition still 100% with the full length 9lb and 90% ish with the cut spring. 

also I bobbed my hammer (just removed spur and blended, also thinned the upper portion a few thousands to eliminate any rubbing on the frame, this also made no difference, still cant run the slightly cut spring. 

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9 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said:

I cant see any problem cutting gown a 10 to see where it fails, 

that said on my Super GP100 in 357 I cut 1.5 coils off the 9lb spring and went from a 6.5lb pull to a 6 and started having light strikes, I tried fitting a Bowen extended firing pin and that made no difference in ignition still 100% with the full length 9lb and 90% ish with the cut spring. 

also I bobbed my hammer (just removed spur and blended, also thinned the upper portion a few thousands to eliminate any rubbing on the frame, this also made no difference, still cant run the slightly cut spring. 

 

Good information. Thank you!

So much nicer to learn from somebody's experience than to try and reinvent the wheel(gun). 

 

FWIW, David Olhasso bobbed a Super GP100 hammer for me that is supposed to be back here tomorrow (sent him a cylinder to bore and figured I might as well send hammer too while I'm at it) will post a picture of what that looks like if I do not forget. 

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I have five GP100's from 1989 till 2018.  The spring and polishing help.  Not like a 1955 Python but they do clean up and almost never fail.  

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7 hours ago, dannyd said:

I have five GP100's from 1989 till 2018.  The spring and polishing help.  Not like a 1955 Python but they do clean up and almost never fail.  

 

My - old - stock GP100 is just OK after quite a bit of live and dry firing. I've tried one that was polished and converted to moon clips by a competent 'smith. I suspect it also had shims and lighter springs. Nice.

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