Kaboom

[elroyyboy]

No Flex. That is the remaining case after the rim was ripped/blown off. FWIW, there was no imprint of head stamp on the face of the "bolt"( for lack of a better term).

Edited April 16, 2013 by elroyyboy

[Flexmoney]

No Flex. That is the remaining case after the rim was ripped/blown off.

There is brass and bullet there though, right?

And, the bullet is not at the front of the chamber, the base of it is back at the mouth of the chamber?

[gng4life]

Did you say you stop and check your powder drop every 15-20 rounds?? Why?

[elroyyboy]

Because I'm cautious and my only powder drop problem (as described above) was undercharged cases when I first began reloading. I wasn't pushing the handle/raising the ram completely and the micro disc didn't get completely over the powder drop through die.

[djcantr]

Does that case look consistent with one that had a normal case head separation or one that was fired out of battery? It sure looks like the case is blown and bulged pretty far down the case towards the mouth. I'm not experienced in this, just thought a case head separation wouldn't go that far down the case.

[gng4life]

Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.

[elroyyboy]

Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.

Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.

BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.

As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.

[elroyyboy]

No Flex. That is the remaining case after the rim was ripped/blown off.

There is brass and bullet there though, right?

And, the bullet is not at the front of the chamber, the base of it is back at the mouth of the chamber?

Flex

The bullet exited the barrel. Only the case remained in the weapon. Is that indicative of a particular type of failure. There's another post about comparison to other either Over charges cases or OOB and I don't know the answer. Can you help?

Thanks

Edited April 16, 2013 by elroyyboy

[MARKAVELI]

Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.

Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.

BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.

As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.

+1 you could have double charged it in your checking powder process. do you use a crono after you wip up a load? what reloader are you using? I'm sure you know, but .40's are hot already. Power pistol is on the slow side and can get closeto the velocity you are looking for and easy to spot a double charge. and correct me if I'm wrong but is not Berry's lead plated & treated like lead bullets? That is what I got on my press now... Keep us informed what Glock Services has to say and what your next loads that you run through the G35 I too am curious on why this has happen.. Good luck be safe &.glad your okay..

[elroyyboy]

Well, I got my G35 Gen4 back from Glock today with a new frame. I'm very pleased with Glock's solution to the problem. It's interesting that they returned my aftermarket springs and connector in a Ziploc bag, but replaced the Gen3 trigger bar I had in the pistol with another Gen3 trigger bar. I'm looking forward to shooting tomorrow morning at Bud's Indoor Range. I'll start again with factory ammo and see what happens.

[elroyyboy]

Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.

Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.

BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.

As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.

+1 you could have double charged it in your checking powder process. do you use a crono after you wip up a load? what reloader are you using? I'm sure you know, but .40's are hot already. Power pistol is on the slow side and can get closeto the velocity you are looking for and easy to spot a double charge. and correct me if I'm wrong but is not Berry's lead plated & treated like lead bullets? That is what I got on my press now... Keep us informed what Glock Services has to say and what your next loads that you run through the G35 I too am curious on why this has happen.. Good luck be safe &.glad your okay..

I use a Lee Pro 1000 with the micro disc powder measure. I try to stay away from "stick" powders as I've read about metering problems with the Pro 1000 Auto Disc. Again, I use the micro disc. Thanks

[jmtyndall]

Well, I got my G35 Gen4 back from Glock today with a new frame. I'm very pleased with Glock's solution to the problem. It's interesting that they returned my aftermarket springs and connector in a Ziploc bag, but replaced the Gen3 trigger bar I had in the pistol with another Gen3 trigger bar. I'm looking forward to shooting tomorrow morning at Bud's Indoor Range. I'll start again with factory ammo and see what happens.

For future reference, what did you tell them happened that they just replaced it?

[elroyyboy]

Well, I got my G35 Gen4 back from Glock today with a new frame. I'm very pleased with Glock's solution to the problem. It's interesting that they returned my aftermarket springs and connector in a Ziploc bag, but replaced the Gen3 trigger bar I had in the pistol with another Gen3 trigger bar. I'm looking forward to shooting tomorrow morning at Bud's Indoor Range. I'll start again with factory ammo and see what happens.

For future reference, what did you tell them happened that they just replaced it?

The truth. Reloads and all.

[rhyrlik]

You should invest in the Redding GRX die. It allows you to detect casehead seperation by feel as you push the case through the carbide sizing ring. A good case is initially hard to push through, then eases as the casehead passes through the ring. A bad case will start off hard, then get easy and then hard again in a jittery sort of way as the sizing ring nears the extreactor groove. This indicates the casehead had thinned. I toss about 3% of 1x fired cases cuz they feel weird while passing through the die.

[elroyyboy]

You should invest in the Redding GRX die. It allows you to detect casehead seperation by feel as you push the case through the carbide sizing ring. A good case is initially hard to push through, then eases as the casehead passes through the ring. A bad case will start off hard, then get easy and then hard again in a jittery sort of way as the sizing ring nears the extreactor groove. This indicates the casehead had thinned. I toss about 3% of 1x fired cases cuz they feel weird while passing through the die.

I get the same feeling when pushing through the Lee Bulge Buster. I size brass in a single stage before ever putting it through the progressive.

[Steve RA]

I'd guess the cause of the "Kaboom" was firing out of battery.

[elroyyboy]

I'd guess the cause of the "Kaboom" was firing out of battery.

Steve, thanks. Soooooo, the $100 question is how to prevent OOB?

[Steve RA]

Obvious answer is to switch to a 1911, but, in the case of a Glock it probably happens when the spring or springs get weak and don't hold it in battery as designed. Also, not running stock springs and changing the balance between the various springs from stock can have a detrimental effect.

[gng4life]

However, it still should not fire out of battery. If you push back on the slide more than about 1/4 of an inch (and that's being generous), you should not get a OOB fire. If so, time to send it off to the vendor or gunsmith.

I do agree with Steve that if the springs are weak or if the springs are very light, you could get an OOB condition but they would have to be way out of spec for that to happen.

[elroyyboy]

Thanks guys. I do change springs, but not my recoil spring. The gun had around 700-800 rounds, mostly mid to low range reloads, before the incident.

[Steve RA]

Could be a case oversize at the base, which could hold it out of battery far enough to blow out the case but still let the striker go forward and fire the round.

[elroyyboy]

Could be a case oversize at the base, which could hold it out of battery far enough to blow out the case but still let the striker go forward and fire the round.

Steve. I run brass through Lee Bulge Buster before I ever put them on progressive and plunk test every round.

[Steve RA]

Obviously a mystery then !!

[elroyyboy]

Sorry, not trying to poo poo your posts. But, as you might imagine, I've been over every possible root cause about 100k times over the past few weeks. I appreciate your comments as well as those of the other experienced shooters and reloaders on this forum. Thanks very much.

[Steve RA]

I didn't take it that way, still think it fired out of battery but most reasons seem to have been mentioned.