roklock Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Hello, I have an older model of the Para P16 and at the match last Sunday the tab (mounts into frame) on the sear spring busted. So I order a replacement (Colt) and when trying to re-install today the left leaf isn't long enough to stay on top of the sear foot. Does this even make sense? If so I am assuming I will have to order an OEM spring? Thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmca Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) No, it doesn't make sense. If I recall correctly, it's the only spring that's different from standard 1911 springs. Edited March 16, 2013 by kmca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) Get an Aftermarket from Brown, Clark or Nowlin from Midway or Brownells. You'll get a better product. Call their customer service before ordering just to make sure. But I had a Para in the early '90's and just used 1911 parts. I have seen this in some odd manufacturers though. Edited March 16, 2013 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuildSF4 Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Para, STI, 1911 all same spring. Have seen this on some manufacturer's sear springs, believe it is normally a long tolerance on one part and short tolerance on the other. I normally use Ed Brown sear springs when I do a trigger job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roklock Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 Well, I don't know why I didn't do this before...kind of a "duh" moment. I miked the left leaf from bottom of spring (not the tab portion) to the "right angle" bend at the top. Original spring 2.795, replacement (bought Colt) 2.750, that is over a 32nd of an inch and if it was that long would engage the sear at the foot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 The Para sear spring is longer on some of the frames, I cut the slot up higher and then tig weld a bead so it can't slide down. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walnutty Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 roklock, You will need a factory Para sear spring. They are longer, and have a different geometry on the middle leg that contacts the disco. If you use a Colt spring it may look fine until you pull the trigger back. You'll see the mid leg lose contact with the disco. I've been playing with my P-14 & P-16 for the last several months. Only the Para spring worked. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roklock Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) Thanks everyone, I ordered to Para springs on Sat. from Brownells. If it doesn't fix the problem I will post back on this thread. The Para sear spring is longer on some of the frames, I cut the slot up higher and then tig weld a bead so it can't slide down. Rich Yeah, past my skill sets (tig welding, or for that matter welding in general). Would be nice to be able to have it accept standard springs. Edited March 19, 2013 by roklock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I have gotten the following sear springs to work in my Para's- Infinity tri-glide, Ed Brown Hardcore, Dawson's Para specific and of course a factory Para sear spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 roklock, You will need a factory Para sear spring. They are longer, and have a different geometry on the middle leg that contacts the disco. If you use a Colt spring it may look fine until you pull the trigger back. You'll see the mid leg lose contact with the disco. I've been playing with my P-14 & P-16 for the last several months. Only the Para spring worked. Good luck! I found out the Para springs are longer because where para cuts the slot in the frame for the lower part of the sear spring is farther away from the sear than on most other 1911 patterns. Also, the SVI tri-glide titanium sear spring will work too. Just don't try to bend the tab that goes in the slot too much, it'll break. You can also try, on your original spring or too short springs, to flatten out the angle a little on the tab that goes into the slot of the frame. Make it less than the 90 degree it's at now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sludwin Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 i just bought a sear spring from brownells, cant remember the brand but is was just a hair to short, thought i was loosing my mind for second, just a hair short where it sat on the sear . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slide4949 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 I just bought a EGW sear spring ( which I thing is a Colt spring ) that's too short for my SV, guess I'll try the SV tri-glide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magpulled Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 You can peen he top of the left leg of the spring and it will flatten it out a smidge and in doing so it will increase the length enough to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slide4949 Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Thanks magpulled, good idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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