Dragon11 Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 I broke the tip off of one of the star legs on my 625 from dryfiring. I have two questions to ask. Number one, looking at my Brownells catalog I believe the replacement part is the extractor assembly. I believe, since it is one piece, that this would include the star, the ratchet and the extractor rod. Second, since cylinders usually have to be fitted as a result of the ratchet and hand, after buying this part will it have to be fitted by a gunsmith. I'm pretty sure I've answered my own question, but wanted to check first and also make sure I ordered the right part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 The extractor will include the "star" and "ratchet" but does not include the extractor rod. The extractor rod screws (with backwards threads) into the extractor. They generally do involve gunsmith fitting, although you may get lucky now and then and have one drop in....sorta...... They are a pain in the ass to fit. If your 625 extractor is only missing one tip, and everything works OK, I would recommend running it as it is. (And be more gentle with your dry-firing.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon11 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Thanks for the info. The star does move left and right while set in place just slightly since the one tip broke off, but so far the cylinder timing is fine and it still reloads fine. I'll keep running it as is, but I can't make any promises on going easy while dryfiring, I tend to be a bull in a china shop, so to speak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 If you broke one, might have another go later. I'd get a spare and fit it. One big note, do any chamfering BEFORE you start filing on Ratchets. They actually cut pretty easy just use a file with a safe side down as you just cut the sides of the ratchet. It's not that hard just takes patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon11 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 If you broke one, might have another go later. I'd get a spare and fit it. One big note, do any chamfering BEFORE you start filing on Ratchets. They actually cut pretty easy just use a file with a safe side down as you just cut the sides of the ratchet. It's not that hard just takes patience. When you say the sides of the ratchet, do you mean at the ends or in the grooves where I believe the hand meets the ratchet? I've sent two of my revolvers back to smith and have always been interested in trying to learn to fit the timing on my own. I think the extractor assembly in Brownells was $20.00, I'm willing to give it a try for that price. At least once or twice anyways, if it means I can figure out how to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 (edited) The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a good place to start, Midway carries them. Yes the sides of the Ratchet where the Hand contacts is where metal is taken off. Each chamber is centered individually. One other note you will also need to make sure the arms of the star don't contact the cylinder and hinder reseating., this needs to be done before the Ratchet is cut also. A sure way to break one. On the older pinned ratchet style the pins actually helped center the arms. The new style are a bit easier to fit, and made of softer metal it seems to me. Kuhnhausen's manual explains it pretty well. Edited March 12, 2013 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon11 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a good place to start, Midway carries them. Yes the sides of the Ratchet where the Hand contacts is where metal is taken off. Each chamber is centered individually. One other note you will also need to make sure the arms of the star don't contact the cylinder and hinder reseating., this needs to be done before the Ratchet is cut also. A sure way to break one. On the older pinned ratchet style the pins actually helped center the arms. The new style are a bit easier to fit, and made of softer metal it seems to me. Kuhnhausen's manual explains it pretty well. Awesome, thanks for the info. Plan on ordering the book shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4mike Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) .......... One other note you will also need to make sure the arms of the star don't contact the cylinder and hinder reseating., .................. by my experiences it causes more with B style designed bore in cylinder (for extractor shaft) as guide for file using steel chamber insert with ball bearings for ratchet fitting finish I use old sharpened hands for 586/685 chamber insert with 10mm OD bearings Edited March 15, 2013 by 4mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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