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Probelm with resizing ruining brass


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Here's the short/long of it-

I've reloaded a good 3000+ 9mm and 2500+ 40 on my 550 with all Dillon dies. Within the last 300/400 rounds of 40 a problem has shown up (Only in 40 so far). See the pictures.

Per 100 I'll get about 4 or so pieces of brass that feel funny in the last bit of travel in the resizing station leading to a progressive increase in pressure to pull the handle down and the press doesn't "bottom" out like normal.

The brass comes out like below. I'm using Dillon lube. I'm not doing anything different that I can tell.

Brass has always been range pick up and picking up of my brass since I get my press.

My resizing die is set by screwing it all the way till it touches the shell plate and backing off less than 1/4 of a turn. BUT I can feel when I'm having the problem within the last few inches of handle operation.

20130308_121323_zps335af7be.jpg

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Dillon die? Never had that happen nor have I ever seen it before.... And... I never lube my pistol brass which, I would think, would increase the likelihood of something like that happening....

I saw a thread here on the forum which showed the chamber of a race gun that had Really been hogged out by the builder. If you had a hugely enlarged chamber at the base and shot pretty hot loads it might swell up to the extent that it would not size...but...

I have reloaded many K rounds that had been shot through Glocks - with standard Dillon .40 dies - and never seen anything like that. :surprise:

Edited by Merlin Orr
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Recommend you try a Lee first stage sizer and lube cases. Loading on Dillon 550 and a 650 a Lee first stage sizer is in the first stage on both presses. Lee's sizer will size closer to the extractor groove and is a little tighter that other brands. At present using Lee's U die in 40 S@W. Helps guns with tight chambers run. There are push through dies that will size brass in a seperate step along with the rim but it is a seperate step.

I shoot range brass and lots of it is shot through Glocks. Haven't had any problems since going to the U die in my STI 40's and I've seen it help get other pistols running in the past. You can purchase the U die at Midway USA and EGW. Lee also has an excellent primer punch that will push up in most cases instead of breaking. Replacement punches are about two bucks and I would order a few when you purchase the die just in case.

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yeah, I'm not feeling the love.

Photos do funny things some times.

the 9mm does not look tapered to me.

any chance you have something like a 38 die in there ?

miranda

They're all 40 and It's 100% a 40 die. The pics are exactly how it looks in real life. The second from the bottom is the most pronounced.

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ok now I am really not feeling the love.

sorry I thought that was the 9mm cases.

yeah take a set of calipers to that brass.

my mark-1 eyeball says that the rim is smaller than the bulge area.

so the case is being reshaped

those cases must have been truely hammered or maybe annealed.

I believe that the case is being pushed down while being sized

that explains why a couple look shorter than the others.

I think the first response is the path to follow.

toss them.

the ways to fix are likely to cost more than a few bad cases.

is there anything slightly larger than a 40?

the cases my have been from a shot from a 10mm?

the rescue may be to size with a 10auto first...

miranda

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If I size a case that is.432 or larger I will always get that ring. Between .429 and .432 it is occasional. At .429 and below it never happens. I need below .427 for a round to chamber in my STI so I use a Redding die for sizing.

When the brass is out of my STI they all size correctly. When it is range brass I lose 8 to 10 out of every hundred.

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Get the Lee Bulge Buster kit.

I Bulge Bust everything after I finish a batch. Most slide through easily, but that occasional that needs a little extra oomph is the one that is border line for fitting my chamber. When I tried Busting the unsized brass it all took some oomph, so I decided to leave it until after I had sized it. Sizing therefor tends to destroy the border line cases before they go into my press.

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  • 2 weeks later...

is there anything slightly larger than a 40?

the cases my have been from a shot from a 10mm?

the rescue may be to size with a 10auto first...

miranda

40 and 10mm use the same sizing die from most manufactures. Same case diameter, different length. (Also 10mm uses Large primers, 40 uses small pistol for more case strength at the base.)

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Hi GuildSF4,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.40_S%26W

says straight side and neck and base are .424 in.

and case length is .850 in.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10mm_Auto

says says straight case... then lists neck as (0.421 in) and the base as (0.426 in)

and overall case is (0.992 in).

so while I can't say anything about the Dies being the same, 'cause I have never seen any of either kind,

I can only point out that the 10 auto is a wee bit bigger at the base.

And I do not take wikipedia as the worlds foremost firearm authority, just one where one can

find a lot of answers quickly.

now my post may not have been clear in that If a sizing die that is a little bigger is available,

one could possibly do a two step resizing to fix the problem cases.

...I gotta say, I am thinking 2 thousands ain't a lot of difference....

miranda

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Dumb question, but have you taken your resizing die out and seen if there is a bunch of crap up in the die?

That Would Be My First Step Too. THEN Trying A Set Of Lee Dies. Ive Never Had An Issue With Glock Brass Using Lee Dies.

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