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New XL650 not ejecting completed rounds


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I purchased a new Dillon XL650 setup for .223.

Right out of the box completed rounds are binding on the ejector wire and will not eject.

If I give the handle a pop at the top of the stroke it will. But not all the time and does not feel like it's doing the loader any good.

The vids I've seen on youtube looks like the ejector wire pushes the round off the plate smoothly.

How do I get my machine to do that?

Wanted to run it past the forum before contacting Dillon as I know they are very busy.

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a picture would help a ton, do you have your shell plate down too tight? is the big center bolt through the ejector wire thing, or is it on top of it pinning it down? is the far end of the ejector wire in the little hole?

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When I first started using a 650 I had that problem. I did two things that helped out. One, I slicked up the ejection wire with some dry lube but what I think really helped was I relieved the openings on the shell plate a tiny bit with a small piece of sandpaper. The openings were very tight toleranced on the shells so I smoothed them up just a little bit so the brass would come out a little easier. If you fool around with the loader with no powder/primers you may find yours is the same way. I think what I did is kind of a breaking in sort of thing that will happen naturally if you just keep using it but it certainly is aggravating until it works right.

This was my experience, yours may be different.

MLM

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Happened to me too. Ejector wire is either too low, or too high. I can't remember which it is. try fiddling with the wire.

Did you put the thrust bearing kit in? If so, and you didn't bend the wire, it is definitely the problem. You will need to bend the wire so that it lays flat. Shoot me a PM if you want. I'm home all day and can take pictures of my loader.

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The wire is probably too high, or not seated correctly. Make sure it's "snapped" into place, it should ride very close to the shell plate, and be firm when it's in place. Also, make sure it's not hitting the case feed arm.

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Thanks for all the responses. What a great forum.

I'll take some pics this evening.

Not using a thrush bearing kit but I have one and want to use it.

The ejector wire is positioned around the main Allen screw, close to the shell plate.

The other end is seated in the small hole but property, I dont know as the machine is new to me.

Hopefully a pic will help.

Thanks to all of you for the willingness to help.

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When I first setup my 650, I had some issues ejecting 223's.

Work on getting the ejector wire down closer to the shell-plate at the ejection point. Mine is now only a few thousandths above the shell-plate (at the ejection point) works flawlessly. Just keep taking a little off the end that inserts down into the machine frame. Also put a dab of lube on the wire where the ejection wire would make contact with the case.

wire.jpg

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Looks like the output side of the spring is a bit too high (hard to tell for sure), however it should only a couple thousands above the shell-plate. Also make sure there are no burrs on the wire or the slots in the shell-plate, and make sure the shell-plate groves are not too tight. (You are using a #3 shell-plate for .223 right?)

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If you get that bearing kit here is my tip:

It comes with two washers. Don't bother using the lower washer , just use the washer to cover the top of the bearing.

You will then also have to make another adjustment to the ejector spring as the bearing and washer raise that up.

If I was just loading 223 and not messing with short wall pistol ammo I'd probably not mess with the bearing kit. However if you are seeing some powder spillage due

to excess case slap when rotating to the detent positions it would probably help.

I use the bearing kit here to help with case jostling and help avoid ...lessen.. powder 'jumpage' but for 45ACP. It does help once adjusted just so.

SOme get by with just clipping the spring that holds tension on the detent ball bearing. I had tried that before I 'sprung' for the bearing kit on ebay. For my needs that

bearing kit worked better. Your mileage may vary.

Hah, My online spell checker is ignorant of the word 'detent'. It insists I want detente which I think is some silly French word having to do with chewing blood pudding and cockscomb.

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I agree...only use the top washer with the bearing, and I also clipped the detent ball spring 1/2 coil. When you go to tighten your shell plate, you're going to have to pay with it...it needs to be almost to the point of not turning, then back it off just enough. It should give you a smooth rotating shell plate.

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From the looks of things (picture 2) there isn't enough space between the wire and the exit on the platform. To my way of thinking, the wire needs to be bent(tweaked) just a small amount to increase the space. A year or two ago there was a modification listed on this Forum on exactly how to do the bend. It's what I had to do to mine and it's worked perfectly ever since. As regards the washer/bearing mod: I have installed both washers and the bearing WITHOUT any problem with the wire riding higher around the center bolt. I didn't have to file any off the end of the wire that fits into the hole on the platform.

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From the looks of things (picture 2) there isn't enough space between the wire and the exit on the platform. To my way of thinking, the wire needs to be bent(tweaked) just a small amount to increase the space. A year or two ago there was a modification listed on this Forum on exactly how to do the bend. It's what I had to do to mine and it's worked perfectly ever since. As regards the washer/bearing mod: I have installed both washers and the bearing WITHOUT any problem with the wire riding higher around the center bolt. I didn't have to file any off the end of the wire that fits into the hole on the platform.

This is pretty much what I had to do. All it took was a SMALL bend in the wire, away from the brass. Went from binding now and then to 100% reliable. Didn't take much at all.....

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