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Apex Technical Question


ambluemax
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OK so after a few years of hardcore 1911 shooting and dabbling in glocks...my latest adventure is the m&p platform. Love the gun, hate the trigger and knew I pretty much was going to swap to APEX almost immediately

So I went about installing the Apex competition trigger kit into my gun. I installed it all myself which was one of my first real adventures in DIY gun work for me. I put it together a few times in the process to feel how the different parts changed the trigger pull and reset. I got all the way through and realized I forget to swap the OEM striker spring with the APEX supplied spring. I know some people prefer the OEM springs to the APEX springs anyway, and my rear sight was a bear to get back on, so I decided eh, good enough- run it.

The end result was my trigger pull weight and feel did change, but if there is one thing Iv'e learned is that every M&P trigger is an individual (more so than other guns to me). The combination of the new trigger characteristics, my grip and trigger finger placement have yeilded a new annoyance. The trigger safety now snags to the frame because sometimes there isn't enough leverage being exerted to positively disengage it. So no instead of grittiness I have a snagging trigger bugging me.

**Has snaggy trigger happened to anyone else? Is there a reamody for it?

**Does anyone have any idea how the striker spring would change the feel of the trigger? By not using competely OEM or completely APEX springs might I have thrown something out of balance so to speak with the spring/trigger/safety interaction?

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I was at apex picking up my revolver and asked them the same question about my M&P that had a competition trigger installed. You have 2 choices.

1. Move your trigger finger down a little on the trigger. Pull the trigger with your finger on the bottom (lowes part) of the trigger and no snag. This will disengage the trigger safety with out hitting the frame. If you are like me I didn't like that option.

2. One of the apex gun smiths took a file and removed a very little bit from the the part of the trigger (the part that stickes out on the back of the trigger) that contacted the frame. Do this a little at a time. You do not want to remove too much! To much means no safety. A little and... No snag.

As for as the spring...I don't know. The kit was made to go together so I would put it in. I don't think the spring would have anything to do with the snag.

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You could put the stock trigger return spring back in and that will add a little resistance that will deactivate the trigger safety.

Bingo. That's what I did with mine. The snagging drove me crazy with the competition trigger return spring. I swapped the stock spring back. The trigger is slightly heavier but overall I like it better.

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I ran into this problem when installing the FSS trigger and the competition spring set. I put a piece of small grit sandpaper between the trigger safety and the frame and pulled the trigger a few times to radius the tip of the trigger safety. You can ruin one of these triggers by using a file to remove /radius that tip. Ask me how I know.

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Same here, I just removed the trigger safety on my competition guns. If I get one for carry, I'll deal with the click. But in USPSA, If my finger is on the trigger, I don't have a need for the safety anymore, plenty of guys shoot guns with lighter triggers and no trigger safety (2011's) without worry.

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Thanks guys! Does anyone have before and after pics of their file/sandpaper work?

I know the striker spring is probably a seperate issue (maybe)...I'm trying to think if you would even feel it at all in the trigger because the striker is 95% cocked when in battery isn't it? But then again why would APEX give you the spring if it didn't do something...

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Same here, I just removed the trigger safety on my competition guns. If I get one for carry, I'll deal with the click. But in USPSA, If my finger is on the trigger, I don't have a need for the safety anymore, plenty of guys shoot guns with lighter triggers and no trigger safety (2011's) without worry.

Is this Production legal? It would seem to violate Appendix D4 22

Specifically prohibited modifications and features

Disabling of any external safety or externally operated safety.

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Same here, I just removed the trigger safety on my competition guns. If I get one for carry, I'll deal with the click. But in USPSA, If my finger is on the trigger, I don't have a need for the safety anymore, plenty of guys shoot guns with lighter triggers and no trigger safety (2011's) without worry.

I wonder if this is 'legal' for limited too. I'm unsure of what is considered the 'primary' safety on an M&P.

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Same here, I just removed the trigger safety on my competition guns. If I get one for carry, I'll deal with the click. But in USPSA, If my finger is on the trigger, I don't have a need for the safety anymore, plenty of guys shoot guns with lighter triggers and no trigger safety (2011's) without worry.

I wonder if this is 'legal' for limited too. I'm unsure of what is considered the 'primary' safety on an M&P.

Probably not legal for Production, new Limited rules don't have an approved gun roster anymore. Basically it's Open with no Optics, Compensators and need .40 for Major. At worst it would put my gun into the "prototype" category which is allowed now. The striker safety is still fully functional.

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Modification of theb safety is OK as long as it works right?

From looking at USPSA rules, you would not be able to remove or disable the trigger safety for shooting production. You should be able to radius the tip of the trigger safety as long as it still performs as a trigger safety but this would need to be reviewed by USPSA for an official answer.

There should not be a problem with a radius on the tip of the trigger safety for the other divisions. If the trigger safety is considered the 'primary' safety on the M&P, then it can not be removed or disabled. If it is not considered primary, I think you can. This would be similar to pining a grip safety on a 1911 style handgun (thumb safety is primary), which is fairly common.

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If you disable the trigger safety, you are in violation of the USPSA Production rules. All safeties must be functional (Appendix D4 22.1-2).

I simply took the burr off of it. It still functions, but is just a little bit more rounded at the tip so it doesn't snag. Be careful. Go slow. I took way too much off the first time I installed my APEX kit. I had to fix it with a new trigger. You can see a picture here.

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I got all the way through and realized I forget to swap the OEM striker spring with the APEX supplied spring. I know some people prefer the OEM springs to the APEX springs anyway, and my rear sight was a bear to get back on, so I decided eh, good enough- run it.

You don't need to remove the rear sight to change the striker spring. Also the Apex sear kits work fine with the stock striker spring for most I understand. Changing to the Apex competition striker spring would lighten up the trigger pull a little more they say.

Eric

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  • 2 weeks later...

I run the apex competition kit with the factory trigger return spring and striker spring. After playing with different springs (Apex Duty/Carry, Apex Competition, and Stock springs) that was the best feeling to me. I liked the more positive reset of the slightly heavier stock trigger return spring, with this my trigger breaks at just over 3 lbs.

The Apex striker spring made No difference in trigger pull weight at all so I kept the stock spring. It is easy to remove the striker and swap the spring so it doesn't hurt to try.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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