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Classifier Strategy


djthemac

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Howdy All!

I have been shooting USPSA since September of last year, and I just got my first classification as a B shooter in limited! I am pretty stoked about this, and I am trying to do as much dry firing and drilling as possible (Anderson's & Stoeger's books)

I was wondering what strategy is the best for advancing up the classification ladder. As I understand it, correct me if I am wrong, the best 6 of the last 8 classifier stages are utilized to compute your score. Once you achieve a classification, you will not be able to go down unless you specifically request it from HQ, even if your percentage drops below the line.

With these concepts in mind, is it better to go for broke and shoot it as fast as possible, possibly incurring hits on no shoots etc to try and achieve a higher PF, or would it be better to incrementally increase the PF.

Thanks!

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Do you want a paper classification, or a true classification? Those who burn it up just to get a high HF are called paper GM's. Most anyone can hose some of the simpler classifiers with the idea of getting a real high HF. The idea being if they tank it they will tank it so bad that it will not count anyways. If they manage to get all their hits then they get a nice HF and they move up the classification ladder. If you want an honest classification then you shoot it as fast as you can call your shots. You will move up slower but you will have a classification that fits your current ability. This is especially true if you shoot larger matches. Having an A, M, or GM classification and finishing in the middle of the B shooters consistently will tell everyone how you earned your classification.

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Do you want a paper classification, or a true classification? Those who burn it up just to get a high HF are called paper GM's. Most anyone can hose some of the simpler classifiers with the idea of getting a real high HF. The idea being if they tank it they will tank it so bad that it will not count anyways. If they manage to get all their hits then they get a nice HF and they move up the classification ladder. If you want an honest classification then you shoot it as fast as you can call your shots. You will move up slower but you will have a classification that fits your current ability. This is especially true if you shoot larger matches. Having an A, M, or GM classification and finishing in the middle of the B shooters consistently will tell everyone how you earned your classification.

Thanks, very good points! My shooting style is such that I am more of a hoser type, I like to run as fast as I can, shoot as fast as I can, and work on getting my accuracy up as well. I really want to move to open class, as I think this division would be more in line with my goals and attributes as a shooter, but I would like to make A or M in limited first, to "put the time in." I dont want to be the noobie, who shows up to open with a space blaster that he doesn't know how to use. :sick:

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Removed Incorrect Info:

From the Rule Book

-------------------------------------

To go down in class you must: 1) request in writing to be moved down, citing

your reasons and justification; 2) have a club president or SC concur with your

request in writing; and 3) have no current scores on record that indicate you

should remain in your assigned class.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Really nothing special to know about shooting an Open gun. They are much easier to shoot than non compensated, iron sighted guns. Shoot the gun you have the most fun with.

Edited by Jerome
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Best thing to do is shoot it like any other stage in a match. Get your hits and be technically proficient.

This from a guy who made GM in about 30 months and then spent the next 8 years being "last GM" at pretty much every major I went to.

Ultimately requested to be moved down to M in all divisions.

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From what I understand, you can move down in Class but it's not easy. The only Classifiers that will count in your average now are 55% and above (5% rule). If 6 of last 8 average below your current class, you drop down to a C. So, put together a string of scores between 55% and 59.999% and you get a new card.

Really nothing special to know about shooting an Open gun. They are much easier to shoot than non compensated, iron sighted guns. Shoot the gun you have the most fun with.

what is the 5% rule? 55 to 59% will yield a 'c' ?

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Only classifiers that are within 5% of the bottom required score count. As a B shooter the cutoff to B is 60%. Scores at 55% or higher will count towards your classification. You can put in all the classifiers you want in the 55 to 59.9 range and they will still count as B's and your classification will not drop. Once you hit a B you will stay as a B even if your percentage drops to 55.1%.

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I was wondering what strategy is the best for advancing up the classification ladder.

It kind of depends on what your long term goals are. When I first started shooting USPSA my goal was to be match winner at my local club. So I mainly practiced shooting on the move and getting in and out of shooting locations as fast as possible. I won a lot of local matches, but my classification never got higher than B class. And this was shooting at a club with multiple GM level shooters.

My current goal is to make GM, and I care a lot less about winning matches. The thing I have changed the most is what I practice. Classifiers are low round count with little or no movement and a lot have standing mag changes. So lately I have been practicing my draw and reload. Also like you mentioned shoot on the edge of your ability and hope you get all your hits. Another thing if you really want to move up is to ask to reshoot the classifier if you aren't happy with your score.

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I try not to shoot my classifiers any faster then my abilties will allow me to. If I shoot faster then I can shoot and get my hits thats great, but if i tank the classifier I just tanked a whole stage and that can really come back to bite you in the match results, especially if you zero out the stage/classifier.

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I'll put it to you this way...have you been to a major match and shot in B class limited, yet?

do that first.

otherwise, there are classifier calculators out there that you can use to give you an idea of what hit factor you need to shoot to get X percentage. this is one:

http://cmcalc.com/

if you do a little more arithmetic, you can then figure out what your points and your time needs to be for X percentage.

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From what I understand, you can move down in Class but it's not easy. The only Classifiers that will count in your average now are 55% and above (5% rule). If 6 of last 8 average below your current class, you drop down to a C. So, put together a string of scores between 55% and 59.999% and you get a new card.

No you don't, even if your average should drop. The only to move down in class (get a C card after having been a B shooter) is to petition USPSA HQ with your MD/SC support. In order for me to consider supporting such a request, I'd need a reason and some time to analyze your match results....

I think I've written one letter supporting a downgrade -- and that competitor health, mobility and ability improved during the following year and got the competitor promoted again.

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I don't know nuthin' bout nuthin, but I am just knocking on the door of B after about a year of shooting. I find that my scores get worse when I try to go fast and hope for the best, and my best classifier scores are the ones where I knew I was getting alphas. I would shoot at the speed at which you can get all (or almost all) alpha's.

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Goals are good to have. Whether it be to move up in classifiers or beat all the folks in the local matches. Another good goal that is important to have is to become more consistent. Anyone can rip a winner now and then... but you will NEVER win a major match if you aren't consistent and have well rounded skills. Give that some thought and decide how you should train...

Edited by lugnut
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I'll put it to you this way...have you been to a major match and shot in B class limited, yet?

do that first.

otherwise, there are classifier calculators out there that you can use to give you an idea of what hit factor you need to shoot to get X percentage. this is one:

http://cmcalc.com/

if you do a little more arithmetic, you can then figure out what your points and your time needs to be for X percentage.

Still new to the game, forive me in advance, but what would be considered a "major match?"

thanks for all the advice guys, since it appears as though its impossible to moved down in a class without a specific request, I would like to use the classifier as an opportunity to push myself to go faster, while at the same time improving my transitions throughout the match

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My goal shooting classifiers is improvement. I want every classifier to improve my average, even if only a little. At least 90% of the time I can do that. First match after a layoff or switching guns can cause a small drop, but that's not a big deal. Mindset is key. It's just another stage and all you can do is shoot it to your ability.

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Open to any USPSA member up to the registration limit. This means that if they cap registration at 100 shooters then you can not register in advance once they reach that limit, They rarely turn shooters away who show up the day of the match.

Nationals are the only ones that are partiality invite only. USPSA issues slots to the clubs based on activity etc. They can be given to people to guarantee a spot at that years match. Unused slots are then filled on a first come first served basis until all of the squads are filled.

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