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223 getting stuck in the chamber


rwskinner
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I just got my xl650 (Thanks Brian) and I just finished setting it with my Dillon 223 carbide die set and I'm having a small issue with the finished cartridges getting stuck in my chamber. I also tried a sized, bare cartridge (No primer or bullet), just sized, trimmed, and deburred and it gets stuck as well. (Doesn't go all the way into the chamber and if the bolt slams it in it's very hard to remove).

Here is my process.

1) Tumble

2) Inspect and lube with Dillon lube.

3) Run thru batch thru the 650 with only the Dillon 223 sizing/decapping die.

4) Inspect and Size Length to 1.750", chamfer and deburr. All case lengths are within 1.747" to 1.752"

Here are my adjustments to the Dillon Carbide 223 sizing/decapping die.

Followed the instructions, with a lubed, clean case inserted and the shell plate all the way up, I slowly screwed the die in until it touched to case, then I lowered the shell plate and screwed in another 1/2 turn and snugged the lock nut.

I then slowly adjusted the sizing die until my case heads were between the go-no go marks on the dillon case gauge. I then locked the lock nut down with a case in the up position (in the sizing die) and verified again. I tried different brands of brass with the same issue.

Some of the forums stated to screw the die down another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, however if I do that then they sit too deep into the case gauge.

Brass shows no signs of bulging and there are no dents.

Oh, BTW, what is odd, my fired brass still gauges just fine in the Dillon 223 case gauge, even before sizing, and it doesn't come close to going into my Bushmaster 5.56 chamber. I didn't think a case gauge would allow that.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Richard

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I'm trying bare, sized cases, no bullet or anything. I cranked down on my sizing die by another 1/4" turn and now it chambers and ejects fine, however I'm sitting a tad deep in the case gauge, maybe 0.005 to 010" below the minimum step.

Here is what is stranger, A new Remington 223 cartridge fits the guage perfect, between the two steps, and it chambers and extracts fine. What is the difference?

Richard

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I had this same issue, chamber on the new gun was smaller than the old one. The cases were too long (by only about .003"), reset die to size the brass shorter than the chamber by about .002" problem solved for me. (Get a small tube about the size of the case neck and measure a fired case, set re-sizing die to ~.002" shorter on your re-sized cases.)

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Look at the sized case shoulder, make sure you don't have a bluge there.

I had bluged cases/rounds drop into the standard Dillon gage but stuck in the gun's chamber.

Try using a case gage that has uses Clymer chamber finish reamer dimensions.

I use a JP which also has go/no-go sizing and case OAL steps.

Dillon sells the EGW chamber checker but I don't know about the go/ no-go steps.

.

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Here is what I did. I took the Dillon case gauge and stuck a case in it backwards so I could measure off the base of the shoulder (using it like a comparator). For grins, I measured a fired case and a new case, from the same lot. The fired brass was 0.010" longer than the new brass (Base to datum line). Then I sized the fired brass down to the same reading as the new brass and it ejects fine. It's still right at the minimum of the case gauge but if I increase the length even by 0.003" then it gets stuck.

It's working now and every once in awhile I get a tight case but it still ejects. Can't believe how much 0.003" makes.

Is what I'm doing acceptable?

Thanks

Richard

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Get a hornady comparator tool and measure the distance from the shoulder to the base. Make sure you're getting 2-3 thou setback when compared to a fired case.

tech give me this same advice about a year ago finally a friend brought over his comparator the problem casings were 1-3 thousands to long. Everything fed great it was very hard to eject certain rounds, the problem rds worked in my other ar 15 just fine

I tried everything in order to get the casings to work. I finally bought a small base die and problem went away.

My rifle was chambered in. 223 wylde

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I'm running into the same problem. Factory ammo is chambering fine, but the reloaded rounds I build are getting stuck in the chamber.

I've sized the brass, trimmed, reloaded, used the lee FCD etc... .I was afraid I might have to go to the small base dies. I'll try getting my .223 die down a bit further.

if not, off to small base I go I guess.

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ran into this some time back with a Sabre rifle. the problem was the corner at the neck/shoulder wasn't sharp enough. Used a body die after decap/size before trimmer and it fixed the problem. the die is still in my processing head, and have not seen that problem since...

I have heard that others have fixed it by grinding off a small bit off the bottom of the main sizing die and then sizing the case a bit deeper.

jj

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok add me to the list of stuckies, I loaded 500 69gr match kings everything same as before with good results. Different rifle Sabre defense, try dry cycling some and nope got to slam it down on the bench to eject rounds. Next step was to paint a few rounds with Dykem then run them thru the gun and look for markings. The only marks are on the bullets so shorten them -.010 try again, 4 out of 5 work but hard. Lot of caliper exercise lots of futile attempts to make them work. So read this thread, take the lee sizing die, pull the spindle and it will pass the bullet. Took a file and started to cut the die length down, my files are not up to the challenge but my grinder is. I might have taken .010 off, set it up in a single stage took 20 rounds lubed them a bit and adjusted the press to take .002 off the OAL. Loaded up a mag with 20 rounds dry cycled like they were coated with KY jelly. They look a bit the worse for wear. I have 60 rounds to take to the range and test if they work fine and the bullets stay put I'll shot them in short range just for fun matches I ordered a new set of dies the RCBS AR Series, short base and taper crimp. Now to find some more bullets. Comparing the cases to new cases the shoulder is just a couple thousands shorter, but since the cases were trimmed before loading they are about .005 short. I definitely will leave them lay. Of note these were not chamfered like I normally do, so yes from now on chamfer inside and out, stick with what works.

Edited by CocoBolo
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CHECK THE BULLET DIAMETER WITH CALIPERS OR MICs, should check .224 Dia.

I bought 1K from a small dealer up the valley, everyone checks .225 - .226 and some larger. I think they are SECONDS.

The way supplies are I'm sure a lot of stuff will hit the fan, and the greedy will scammmmm everyone in sight.

Gonna talk to the mfgr. before getting bloomers in to big a wad.

Perry

OH ! When picking up bullets again, my calipers and scales will be with me.

Edited by perrysho
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I just started doing brass today. I use Redding NM dies. I had my first case insert to far and crushed the brass to the point it had to be drilled out. :yawn:

Im now not able to get the die deep enough to size enough to get the brass to fit into the JP gage. It wont easily slide in the last 1/8" or so. Any more and the neck starts to deform. IF I adjust it any lower the brass sticks and rips out of the shell holder. Im using Dillon lube. First 10 rounds are lubed in a baggie so I know they are lubed. Not overly so I think. My left over ammo using scharch brass drops in the JP and Dillon gauge fine.

Having a hard time figuring out how to correctly set the depth. Done for the day. Time to go to diner and have a beer.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update. I did as I was told and set the shoulders back about 0.002-0.003" (From brass fired in my gun) and everything chambers fine. I've made 1800 reloads so far and shot about 400 and everything is going great. Now, more primers, more bullets!!! :)

I appeciate all the input.

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the input. I'll get the comparator. It seems that it would be easier to use. The Min /Max steps on the case gauge are a little hard for me to see.

Richard

I'm new to reloading, so I'm no expert.

But what I am an expert on is not being able to see the case in the Dillon case gauge.

So what I did is take a set of my automotive feeler gauges apart and used the little ruler that they all seem to have,,,or you could use a fat feeler gauge that's not used,,, and used this as a dedicated straight edge to "FEEL" the case.

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