Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Home built CNC Mill - Gonna make a 1911


StraightUp_OG

Recommended Posts

Just found out fusion 360 has a 1 year free subscription for hobbyists and startups! http://fusion360.autodesk.com/resources/akn/view/NINVFUS/ENU/?guid=GUID-D1193A1F-FBC3-4CEE-8957-B3CA15B1649B click the installation and subscription information link.

Download the trial and then follow the above directions.

That's just bad ass, thanks man. I'm gonna give that a try when I can set aside a weekend to get into it.

ETA found a review of the software on CNCCookbook. Pretty much what Peter said, not so much for cad, but a good way to get into hsm on the cheap.

" I would not want to be a CADCAM beginner trying to figure out this beast. It could be done, but there are easier ways. An intermediate user that fancies getting access to HSMWorks level CAM at a bargain price and who is prepared to deal with the foibles, might be well served. "

http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2014/11/12/fusion-360-promising-power-uneven-usability/

Edited by kevinj308
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I was able to do this in about an 1.5 hours while watching TV and just taking my time. It will be a tool tray for the new TTS tool holders. Used adobe illustrator for the 2d layout (I am not great in cad but smoke in lll.). Imported a dxf into 360, extruded with tool path and sim.

Once I really know the app this tool tray would take 10 minutes to create.

layoutai.jpg

2d.jpg

extruded.jpg

toolpath.jpg

Edited by StraightUp_OG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wanted to say, I have enjoyed reading this thread. I will never be in a position to do any CNC of my own ,But Reading this thread I would say you guys are having fun. I love working on my guns and doing as much work on them as I can myself. But all of you have gone to the next level.

Love watching the vids , and some of the photos I have seen posted on here , I have seen some great work.

Thanks and good luck with all future builds!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just found out fusion 360 has a 1 year free subscription for hobbyists and startups! http://fusion360.autodesk.com/resources/akn/view/NINVFUS/ENU/?guid=GUID-D1193A1F-FBC3-4CEE-8957-B3CA15B1649B click the installation and subscription information link.

Download the trial and then follow the above directions.

That's just bad ass, thanks man. I'm gonna give that a try when I can set aside a weekend to get into it.

ETA found a review of the software on CNCCookbook. Pretty much what Peter said, not so much for cad, but a good way to get into hsm on the cheap.

" I would not want to be a CADCAM beginner trying to figure out this beast. It could be done, but there are easier ways. An intermediate user that fancies getting access to HSMWorks level CAM at a bargain price and who is prepared to deal with the foibles, might be well served. "

http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2014/11/12/fusion-360-promising-power-uneven-usability/

Yeah, that about sums it up. It's a lot better now than it was during the first betas - I've been beta testing everything Inventor- or CAM-related for the past few years - but I'm not really a fan of the modeling.

Well I was able to do this in about an 1.5 hours while watching TV and just taking my time. It will be a tool tray for the new TTS tool holders. Used adobe illustrator for the 2d layout (I am not great in cad but smoke in lll.). Imported a dxf into 360, extruded with tool path and sim.

Once I really know the app this tool tray would take 10 minutes to create.

toolpath.jpg

Just wait until you start playing with the 3D toolpaths!!! You'll absolutely fall in love with the adaptive roughing. Do pay attention to the simulations though - there are times when it will do some fairly inexplicable things.

The other one I really love is morphed spiral. When I'm working with wood, I don't even bother doing roughing passes anymore on a lot of things with 3D shapes. I'll just drop the stock in and use a morphed spiral toolpath.

Anyway, I think I've more or less worked out my AR lower design, and this is it. (Yes - the mag release hole is too long - I've fixed that since.)

TIPbtm.jpg

Z6tMvG.jpg

CEA4jj.jpg

For this round at least I decided not to go too exotic - I'm going to do a fairly standard-ish look to the buffer tower.

I've done the error checking both against a set of blueprints off the internet and against Justin's model from CNCgunsmithing, and it looks good. I'm planning to do some cutting this week!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the grabcad link. I just downloaded those files! I love this $h*t!!!!

Edit: Darn the files are Solidworks EASM and it does not look like there is a way to convert to STEP or such outside of Solidworks.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the grabcad link. I just downloaded those files! I love this $h*t!!!!

No problem - you can find almost any part for almost any gun there, although there's minimal quality control - stuff may be wildly inaccurate or at a minimum completely apocryphal.

If you want the actual 3D model of that lower, you gotta pay the guy. He posts all his stuff as an advertisement, but won't give out the model unless you give him money. IIRC it's something like $200 for the model, but I might be misremembering. It ain't cheap, though, I remember that much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One worthwhile note - it's this way in Inventor, and I'm pretty sure it's this way in Fusion as well - create some sketch geometry on areas that you don't want the cutter to go, and you can use the sketches to define avoid areas. (Well, let me rephrase - I know you can define avoid areas in Fusion, but I'm not 100% positive that the sketches in Fusion work the same way that they do in Inventor.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 flute or 4 flute and HSS. Just want to trim the width for a guy do his Eagle will fit the IDPA box

You need more info than that, cutter size, depth of cut, width of cut, ect.

Everyone should do themselves a favor and pick up g-wizard speeds and feeds calculator. I am far to lazy to do the math myself and use g-wizard for everything, it gives you a very good starting point. I'm in no way a machinist so having a starting point and all the other info g-wizard gives you is invaluable to me.

As i understand, aluminum you want to use 2 or 3 flute because its so gummy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use 2 or 3 flute end mills on aluminum. They have more back clearance that 4 or more flute cutters. That helps cut down on rubbing behind the cutting edge on softer materials. Also best for wood or plastic too. If you are not running coolant you will need to run the spindle at a slower speed to keep heat down and avoid alum. from melting onto the cutter, making it into a solid, non cutting cylinder. If you are not running coolant, get some Tapmagic for Aluminum. It's the best cutting fluid for that. Nothing else even comes close. They have one for alum. and one for everything else.

The easy way to clamp a part on a low real estate machine is to drill a couple of holes and bolt it down directly to the table with T nuts. If you can't have extra holes in the project, sometimes you can use holes that would be there anyway. If that doesn't work, you can make end blocks that clamp to the T slots that have horizontal bolts or setscrews that bite into the ends of the part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easy way to clamp a part on a low real estate machine is to drill a couple of holes and bolt it down directly to the table with T nuts. If you can't have extra holes in the project, sometimes you can use holes that would be there anyway. If that doesn't work, you can make end blocks that clamp to the T slots that have horizontal bolts or setscrews that bite into the ends of the part.

That is what I was thinking. I was also looking at these bad boys. http://www.miteebite.com/products/monobloc_e.html

Any thoughts on those clamps?

My thoughts are HOLY POOP they are expensive!

Edited by StraightUp_OG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, this has been a confusing - and somewhat annoying - morning.

This was supposed to be a straight forward facing operation. The block is aligned parallel to the X-axis, and this was supposed to be a facing operation right-to-left with .125 stepovers in the Y direction. .04" off on the first pass, then a finishing pass at .010".

Welllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll ... I'm losing steps somewhere. About .098" per pass, and it's quite consistent. I'm a little confused by this.

(Yes, I know the finish sucks - that cutter has just about had it, and all I needed was for the piece to be more or less flat.)

HhSTM9.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to CNC hobbies, where simple things take hours and sometimes days.

Check to see if you are losing steps on basic move commands without trying to cut. Is this your CNC bridgeport? Give us a picture of the machine and setup.

Edited by jid2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...