Adjusting sear

[toothguy]

Reason why I ask is on your print out of :

A: too little let out let's the trigger slip by

Since I never touched the let out , this may be a possibility

From the text it looks like line C, the line formed by the leading edge of the sear, should point at the trigger cam. In your above photo it looks like it is a little further than that so I would not adjust it out more. If you have a feeler gauge, what is the clearance between the trigger and the sear? Also make sure the hammer is not rubbing on the frame.

Edited January 27, 2013 by toothguy

[alecmc]

Maybe you need an extended firing pin.

I do, tested with the apex comp pin and a c&s extended

[Bosshoss]

Alecmc it looks like you do have a little to much clearance between sear and trigger. I don't know what all you have done to gun so far so here are some thoughts. When I do a trigger job on a Smith revolver and check the trigger pull the trigger pull is the heaviest when trigger is first pulled. It takes the most trigger pressure to start everything moving and break the friction. With too much clearance between sear and trigger you lose some of the leverage(mechanical advantage) that it takes to start everything moving.

This won't give you the misfires by it's self BUT if you have tweeked the mainspring and shortened the strain screw you might have them too light and trigger still needs more pressure to get moving because of the short sear.

You may also have some drag issues causing problems. When I do a trigger job for someone I spend 4 to 5 HOURS smoothing everything up in the action. I average 10 hours on a full competitition trigger job including bobbing hammer and recontouring the trigger, ream and champfer cylinder, etc. To get a good trigger IMHO you have to get it ounces at a time there are several places to get a ounce here and there and it all adds up.

What I'm trying to say is don't buy a Apex hammer and JM spring kit and expect a sub 5lb trigger just throwing them in. (NOT saying that is what you are expecting just making a point).

You are learning a lot doing this yourself, thats how most of us learned how to do it.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Keep us posted.

[alecmc]

Thanks again everybody for the tips, I think I was able to salvage that sear because I had a new trigger on order that I wanted to match my other ( smooth stainless ), it was a tad larger so I had to further fit the sear.

I spent about 6-7 hours today messing with it, polishing out all the internals. Right now I'm able to set primers off at about 5.5 lbs

only issue left is I think I got a little over zealous on rounding off the leading edge of the trigger peice that brings down the cylinder stop. I think the cylinder stop is being let go to early and rising up a little too soon and causing some drag. it's noticiable in slow fire, not so much in fast. Leaving drag marks, I polished the face of the cylinder stop, but i'm thinking I may round the edges off too , any issue with this? really hoping I didnt butcher that trigger.

[AS350Driver]

Alec, your video is coming up as private, can't view. Nice job winning revolver division yesterday.

[alecmc]

Thanks frank, fixed the video.

Easy to win revolver division when your the only one shooting revo !

[Toolguy]

If you want the cylinder stop to stay down longer, use a small round file and file the holes that go on the pivot pin further forward. That will allow the stop to move closer to the trigger and stay engaged longer. The spring will keep it pushed toward the trigger.

[toothguy]

alecmc, good video must be hard to hold the camera and work the trigger. Toolguy is a master at adjusting the unadjustable.

[alecmc]

If you want the cylinder stop to stay down longer, use a small round file and file the holes that go on the pivot pin further forward. That will allow the stop to move closer to the trigger and stay engaged longer. The spring will keep it pushed toward the trigger.

Great idea, thanks so much.

You the man

[Ty Hamby]

Nice thread. The videos are great. I have a couple of N-frames I have worked over and am happy with. Today I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen book and may just go over them with a new look. One of my "trigger jobs" turned out awesome.. the other one was 80%. I now have the inspiration to try to dial it in. Heck its nothing but parts. Doesn't hurt to try.

Is there any external polishing to the trigger that anyone does? Looking to remove the JerryM serrations and wondering if there is a profile that is preferred.

[alecmc]

Nice thread. The videos are great. I have a couple of N-frames I have worked over and am happy with. Today I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen book and may just go over them with a new look. One of my "trigger jobs" turned out awesome.. the other one was 80%. I now have the inspiration to try to dial it in. Heck its nothing but parts. Doesn't hurt to try.

Is there any external polishing to the trigger that anyone does? Looking to remove the JerryM serrations and wondering if there is a profile that is preferred.

I plan on doing a little further polishing to shine the metal on the trigger I have, the stainless is dull.

I'd also like to countour the outer edges of the trigger, they are currently a little squared.

But that's probably not what you were talking about, lol

[practical_man]

Nice thread. The videos are great. I have a couple of N-frames I have worked over and am happy with. Today I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen book and may just go over them with a new look. One of my "trigger jobs" turned out awesome.. the other one was 80%. I now have the inspiration to try to dial it in. Heck its nothing but parts. Doesn't hurt to try.

Is there any external polishing to the trigger that anyone does? Looking to remove the JerryM serrations and wondering if there is a profile that is preferred.

Narrow and rounded trigger face. Radius any part of the trigger you might touch during pull stroke, including the rear portion that might pinch if you don't have a trigger stop.

[Toolguy]

I always round off the sharp back corners of the trigger. Once I went for a draw and my trigger finger hit the back of the trigger and slid down around. It sliced the end of my finger open. Blood is a sticky mess. Better to not have to deal with it.

[alecmc]

Nice thread. The videos are great. I have a couple of N-frames I have worked over and am happy with. Today I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen book and may just go over them with a new look. One of my "trigger jobs" turned out awesome.. the other one was 80%. I now have the inspiration to try to dial it in. Heck its nothing but parts. Doesn't hurt to try.

Is there any external polishing to the trigger that anyone does? Looking to remove the JerryM serrations and wondering if there is a profile that is preferred.

Narrow and rounded trigger face. Radius any part of the trigger you might touch during pull stroke, including the rear portion that might pinch if you don't have a trigger stop.

I've been thinking about doing this in place of any sort of trigger stop.

when trying to be more accurate i'll give a little more trigger finger so I can better stage the trigger, when the tip of my finger makes contact with the frame I know the shot is about to break, down side though is I do wind up pinching the pad of my trigger finger.

You have a picture of the work you did to it for reference?

Edited February 1, 2013 by alecmc

[practical_man]

You have a picture of the work you did to it for reference?

This is a crappy cell phone picture. I started with a .285 wide carbon trigger and a Dremel tool. Ground off all serrations and redo used the front edges. After shooting, I quickly learned that the rear needed chamfering. All I have done so for is lightly break the trailing edge. Big improvement.

Next time I have it apart I will chamfer it more with my fancy new buffer from enco

I like this mod a lot.

Warren Moore has built a couple revos for me since i did this trigger. He does the triggers slightly different, leaving very small serrations in the middle of the trigger face. That too is easy on the hand in sustained double action fire. I like his approach better. Those guns are in the safe right now so I can't send a pic. They also have a trigger stop. You get the idea tho.

I don't prep the trigger as you describe. I can't shoot accurately that way. I try to stroke the trigger at the same tempo for every shot. Once it starts moving I try to keep it moving at the same velocity until the shot breaks while seeing sight alignment. Of course, that's easier to write than to do. When the clock is running I always manage to screw up a string or two, especially those darned Bianchi plates.