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Two guns blown up in five weeks...suggestions?


PapaBonez

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The crimp is just to get rid of the bell mouth and over crimping lead bullets will just make them tumble. (Yes, plated are pretty much the same as loading lead.)

As stated by 'LikesToShoot' the crimp is to get rid of the belling used to allow easier starting of the bullet. The case should be equal to or slightly smaller than the bullet which provides most of the friction that prevents set back in an auto-loader. (slightly wasp waist cartridges are your friend in this)

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Getting a new press may help but if there is an issue with your reloading practice you could still have the same problem with a progressive. I does seem the 550 requires a bit more attention to detail but is still an excellent press.

There was someone on the forum a few years ago with similar issues ( couple of squib loads an a kaboom) using a 550.. It came down to pulling cases to do frequent powder checks and just not following thru afterwards. When I had a 550, Here was my method. You need to develop what works for you, this is just what worked for me....

Run a spent primed case through the powder measure only, ten separate times, and weigh each. This may sound like over kill but it takes maybe 2 min to complete. Yes, after measuring, pour powder back in tube and do again.

Once your satisfied your drop is correct, start loading and don't pull cases to do checks. I always did this 200 rounds at a time, spare primer tube ready.

Look in EVERY case when placing bullet.

After 200 rounds, Let the press empty out, get your primer tubes ready, check drop again (I only checked 2drops) and start again.

200rnds a whack gives you a nice break to empty your bin, inspect your loads, check your press, empty your spent primers, re-fill powder tube (I do not let drop below plastic tube) before starting again. Your press should no problem keeping the powder drops accurate over this time frame if your doing your part.

You'll loose just a few minutes doing this but will still have plenty of rounds out of the press and have less chance of getting complacent.

Doing this, you should be able to get a good system down so that if something is wrong you'll be able to recognize it right off. Get a system and stick to it. If someone else is going to use your press, get them to follow your example!!!

However you do it, once you get comfortable that your loading sessions are thorough, your shooting sessions will be more enjoyable knowing that a kaboom isn't waiting on your next shot.

+++on developing a system. I've loaded a couple of kabooms myself. Here's a couple of thoughts.

Don't walk away from your loader with rounds in progress. Finish with the four cases/rounds in the machine.

If you get interrupted. Remove all unfinished rounds and set them aside to look at closely.

Don't over bell your case mouths...this will keep the bullet high on top of the case at position #3. You know it's ok to pull the crank when you see a high bullet at position #3.

Load in separate batches of 100. Set each group of 100 aside. Case gauge and inspect them. Then do another batch.

With Titegroup, I can take a 38 super case, insert it in station #2 and pull the crank 3 times. Dump it out, repeat 2 times and finally just 1 stroke. This is a total of 10 strokes. Weigh it and divide by 10. That's your average load.

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I agree with the posts about trying a bulkier powder, as well as the powder check die. However I also ran into what could have been a problem myself. i was using range pick-up brass. Never had an issue before. BUT, I found some brass that had a thinner wall than the rest. On this brass, there was not enough tension to prevent the bullet from setting back, really easily. So, instead of sorting through all of the brass, I got one of those special Lee undersized sizing dies. It squeezes all of the cases down enough to get a pronounced "coke bottle" effect on everything.

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I had the same issue with the 550 and titegroup (blew up my limited gun). A guy on the forums suggested his use of a small mirror and a light source to really verify the charge. He also suggested that with too little of a charge with titegroup that I could of had a "flash" on the powder rather than a double charge, as I visually checked all the loads. Powder can sometimes not feed through the powder bar.

I solved the problem with a 1050.

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Reloading can be a boring task. Like power tools its easy to make a costly mistake. You can't really be to anal when loading. Don't load when your tired or distracted in anyway. turn off the radio and TV and if someone comes into the room to talk, stop loading. I have a 650 but I still look down the case before I put on each bullet. Like others have said, rig a light to see down each case, possibly use a slower powder and check to make sure the bullets don't push easily into the case. If your not sure about something discard it.

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I also have a 550B and have had a couple squibs in my 9mm and blew the barrel up in my 45 cal. 1911.....I posted my distress on this forum and EVERYONE suggested I buy the flexible light and look into each casing after the powder is dispensed, before placing the bullet on the casing....

I followed their suggestion, and haven't had a problem since......AND, I think that I won't listen to music while I load...distracted me too much..

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I blew up a Glock 34 the same way, I was measuring powder loads, taking cartridges in and out of the press, and double loaded one. Now if I take a cartridge out to weigh the powder, the powder goes back into the hopper and the cartridge goes into spare bin. I never put a cartridge that I take out of the press back into the press. Also, if I am setting up with a new powder, that is all I do until I am satisfied with the powder level. Then I start the press empty so there is no way to have a charged cartridge in the press. Just how I do things since my mishap. Good luck.

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550 is a good machine, the advice I give new reloaders if someone comes into the room. Stop finish the conversation before going back to the task. Don't try and race to see how many rounds you can turn out work at a steady pace that allows you to see the case at station three. Your eyes are the only powder check system on the press. You need good lighting. There's a small clamp light that Lowes sells for twenty bucks I have one on my 650 as well as my 550.

While the auto indexing presses are better I've seen squib loads come off a Super 1050 and had one on my 650 with a powder check.

Anyone can and will at some point make a mistake on any machine. Always double check if you think there's and error. One of the worst blown pistols I've seen was a S@W model 19 back in the 70's with a major company factory ammo blew three cylinders and the top strap, shooter had to go to the ER.

A local commerical reloader had a fire start a few years back and the building burned to the ground with the loss of one life. While incidents like these are rare it happens.

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I know that the 550 is a 4 station press but if you seat and crimp in station 4 in 3 you could run an RCBS lockout die and catch the double charges. Just a thought I use one on my LNL and would not load without one.

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I have a 550 too and like most people always thought I am meticulous about reloading. But it just takes one distraction, one tired moment, one night of "quick 50 extra rounds" before a match and it can happen. We've all been there. We just have to find a routine in reloading that a long series of mistakes that will have to happen before you can squib or double charge a round.

How many loaded rounds do you have left that is "suspect"? I've never doubled charged a case but I have made squib .45acp rounds before. 5grs of bullseye under 230gr FMJ. I pulled all the rounds of course after it happened but before I did so I weighed them and pulled out the suspect rounds that weighed too low. It actually worked and I was able to identify the squibs. This only works for high powder charges I think, and the fact that I have OCD about loading same brass cases with each batch helped in weight sorting.

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This may be "insulting" but I don't mean to be...

Have you learned how to reload or are you just cranking out rounds after your friend set up your press?

Do you check the powder charge weight occasionally and the COL? Do you check every single round by placing the bullet meplat against the bench and pushing down with your thumb? Some cases, and particularly some 9x19 cases, have walls so thin that they won't hold a bullet unless you get a sizing die that sizing the case more than standard. I simply throw such cases away as I don't want to damage a gun and bullet set-back will do.

One thing I will say for myself--I wouldn't load on a press without auto indexing. I know myself, and I know that I prefer auto-indexing so I can't forget anything.

For the cost of two guns, you might have been able to afford a Dillon 1050, or at least a 650 (but ONLY if you get a case collator/feeder).

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Some things that are relatively low probability but you might want to check.

1.Calibrate your scale with a checkweight. I've had a digital scale go bonkers on me and was showing light when it really wasn't.

2. The pre-primed brass, who primed it? Was it someone you know, trust and can verify didn't use magnum or small rifle primers (not sure if this would kaboom, but just a thought).

Other than that, I would switch to a more forgiving powder and ensure that there is no bullet setback as stated above. Hope that helps and glad no one was hurt.

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It probably happened when you were checking the charge weight. I caught one loading some .38s a while back. Using WST I saw that it had too much powder in it. I have some Titegroup and plan to set up my 550 to load it in 9MM. If I can't see the powder in the case I'll have to come up with a new plan. A double charge ain't fun.

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The difference in primers is not going to cause a gun to blow up. Alot of us use SRP in all of our loading and do not alter the amount of powder from one type of primer another.

Wasn't 100% sure if that would cause an issue, just trying to think of possibilities to track down. Do you have significant differences in FPS with different primer types and the same powder charge?

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Remember also dillon has a lifetime warranty on the loader so if you suspect it send it to them . I had a mishap where i thought i didnt powder a round and cap a bullet on it. the next day i went back thru all 100 rounds pulling then and resetting the charge in them one at a time. I admit i get a little ocd when reloading. I pull every 5th round sometimes when im working a ladder for new powder and bullet combo i will do each round individually. when ever you return to the reloader make sure you know what powder was in it. Did anyone make any changes. if i leave my reloader set up with powder in it i place a sticky not on the powder holder with what grain its throwing and what powder is in it. i also leave the powder container right next to the press. If i am switching heads i empty all powder from the unit. so they dont get mixed up .. Glad to hear no one was hurt its a scary thing...

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Some things that are relatively low probability but you might want to check.

1.Calibrate your scale with a checkweight. I've had a digital scale go bonkers on me and was showing light when it really wasn't.

2. The pre-primed brass, who primed it? Was it someone you know, trust and can verify didn't use magnum or small rifle primers (not sure if this would kaboom, but just a thought).

Other than that, I would switch to a more forgiving powder and ensure that there is no bullet setback as stated above. Hope that helps and glad no one was hurt.

First thing I thought when I heard preprimed...did you prime it yourself? If not it's possible it was never sized properly, allowing setback. I've had bullets push right into incorrectly sized brass.

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  • 2 weeks later...

while a double charge is quite possible, with the facts you have provided i think that there is another possibility that is more probable

i used to over-check charge weights like you do until i ended up with two squibs, set the machine, triple check everything, then leave it alone

i think there is a good chance you checked the charge weight and then forgot to refill the case or put it back in out of sequence causing you to seat a bullet on an empty case, if the squib went into the barrel far enough to let the next round seat in the chamber then the result you experience could easily happen

just a thought

take care and good luck

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