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Do some powders heat the cylinder more than others?


tortuga

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I am starting over again in revolver shooting - used to shoot a 586 in USPSA some time ago. I have to start load development over again for a new gun, using 158 grain bear creek RN most likely as I still have some left and liked them well enough for accuracy and for guiding into the cylinder.

The memory of holding the cylinder open for the last reload of a high round stage is still with me - That thing can get HOT. Damn near dropped it once it hurt so bad. Wondering if there are powders that burn cooler than my old 231 loads that might not get the gun as hot.

If anyone has a pet load or good starting point for a 158 grain minor load I'm all ears.

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I am starting over again in revolver shooting - used to shoot a 586 in USPSA some time ago. I have to start load development over again for a new gun, using 158 grain bear creek RN most likely as I still have some left and liked them well enough for accuracy and for guiding into the cylinder.

The memory of holding the cylinder open for the last reload of a high round stage is still with me - That thing can get HOT. Damn near dropped it once it hurt so bad. Wondering if there are powders that burn cooler than my old 231 loads that might not get the gun as hot.

If anyone has a pet load or good starting point for a 158 grain minor load I'm all ears.

Just curious to know what the load your were using was and what power factor were you making. I just titegroup, which does burn hot from my experience, but I just backed off the load that I was using and the hot cylinder problem went away. I still make major power factor and did not have to change the powder that I was using. If you can back off the powder load and still make major (which I presume that you are trying to do), then I would see if the long course cylinder heating problem goes away. No need to change powders if you can simply adjust the powder load and get the result you want.

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Ahh, yet another reason to keep the gun in the strong hand while reloading!

If they'd just get the cylinder to come out on the right side of the gun, I'd do that!

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To be honest, I don't remember the load. It was 20 years ago. The load was a fair amount of 231 and a 147g hard lead FP 9MM profile bullet that was sized a bit bigger for the .357, loaded major for a 6" 586 with a ported barrel. No muzzle flip but you could feel it coming back and with 6 ports down the tube it looked like a steam train going by.

Those days are gone, I'm going to shoot a 4" 586 fairly stock with 158g round nose. That will probably cure some of the problem.

Mike, tell me more about loading with the strong hand on the gun. Always wondered about that. I assume you open the cylinder with your first few fingers, point up, palm the rod, then down and drop the load in with your weak hand? Seems like the angle is all wrong with the speedloader. Do you pick the speedloader out the "other" way around, so your palm covers the cylinde?

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