Franco79 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I just started processing about 5k pieces of 223 brass. This is my first time doing it and its not going so well. I have to swage all 5k pieces, but this is a real pita!! I have seen mods for the Super Swage 600 where a string and rubber band is used. Looks like a hell of an idea.. What I would like to know is, what length is the string that you guys are using on the Super Swage? Any..... And I mean ANY time savings will help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kjdowning18 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 The string needs to be just long enough to lift the rod up when the handle is in the up position.... As the handle is lowered the tention on the string is loosened allowing the rubberband to pull the rod down into position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henny Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I never really had much luck with that mod. I found that mounting the SS on a piece of 2x4 then mounting that combo in a vice vertically with the handle up is faster. What I do is put my brass to be swaged in a box and shake it so the brass is base down, then grab several pieces of brass by using an "ok" gesture with my right hand, with the brass bases by my thumb and forefinger and the case mouths oriented towards my little finger. I then put a piece of brass on the guide with my right hand and push it closed, I operate the swage with my left hand, tip the guide open with my left hand that's holding the brass and remove the brass with my right hand and start the process over. You're using gravity to your advantage. It goes faster than it takes to describe it. Once you get use to it, you can get a good pace going, with out worrying about string and spring tension. I found my 1050 is much faster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I used 1/8 stainless cable swaged crimps and a screen door spring on mine. The string and rubber band got old real quick once it stretched out. I too have since recently sold mine and moved to a 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lablover Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I did this mod and I can fly thru the brass once I get the rhythm down. I used surgical tube instead of a spring. I mean this is fast Not my idea or video.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 That is pretty slick !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BE Fred Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 CORRECT, you DONT swage Military Brass. I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BE Fred Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 ARE YOU MESSING WITH ME? CORRECT, you DONT swage Military Brass. I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 :roflol: :roflol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 dam, that was funny, even thou it may not have been meant to be... non-mil brass, FOR THE MOST PART, does NOT need to run thru your 600 or ground out with a drill. you will find, however, that some commercial brass does have a light swage that may need to be removed. Mic it and see, look at it under magnification and try to find the swage ridge, etc... I have found in the past that FC brass needs to be DE-swaged, but when you do, it will have a tendency to spit primers when shot in an AR. So I have resorted to giving my FC brass that I run across to a friend that has a baker's dozen of bolt action 223 rifles. He loves the stuff. So the short answer is, if its commercial brass, try it, if its tough to seat a primer correctly, then try DE-swaging a few and check them. Using different primers may also help. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BE Fred Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 LOL LMMFAO!! I totally dropped the ball on this one.. I mistyped it, left out a word or two.. Just listen to what "Rigger" said. ARE YOU MESSING WITH ME? CORRECT, you DONT swage Military Brass. I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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