CAI-imported Grand Power K-100..?

[cpa5oh]

I will call jg Monday. And I do have the cz mags with the hole - looks to me like the top of the hole is at the very bottom of where the square needs to be. So basically it'd look like an attached hole and square. Not sure if that'll work...

[PINMAN44]

Content removed at the member's request due to the business-related nature of the post.

[PINMAN44]

Content removed at the member's request due to the business-related nature of the post.

[rebsimeanblackbears]

Good stuff. Thanks

[NicVerAZ]

Thanks, Robby.

One thing that we will probably also be looking for are 10-round magazines for California competitions (I am not even trying to bring "hi" capacity mags there in this political climate).

What we probably won't see for a while are these sweet 20-round mags that Dawson had. I have one, I have used it in limited minor now it is my self-defense mag. Very nice product (what do you expect from Dawson).

CPA5OH: stop bitching and go shoot the damn gun already. Yes, the DA sucks, but the SA pull, reset (lack thereof) and recoil control are uber sweet. Dry fire drill yourself silly until you don't think about it.

Don't mess around with the trigger assembly, don't even think about it. Gunsmiths will hate this gun when it catches up in popularity. There is nothing to do to make it race worthy.

[Canuck223]

Grand Power do have a 10 round magazine. It's all us poor schmucks in Canada can get. They are full length tubes, dimpled front and back but not lazer cut.

The DA slicks up nicely with use. When you take the gun apart for detail cleaning, you will see where the trigger bow comes close to the frame insert. There should be no signifigant rub marks inside the bow or on the exterior of the insert. It should glide over the insert freely with the safety lever detents acting as a glider.

[cpa5oh]

First off to the guy two posts above, I made one post saying the DA pull was heavy (it is - and in the same post I said I wasn't sure if I liked the trigger overall more than my Shadow becasue other aspects were better) and then I asked if there was a hammer spring or something that could lighten that da pull (as there is with a CZ.) I didn't bitch about it at all, and you should show people respect.

Second, and more importantly, I "modified" 3 of my MecGar CZ mags just now. Took 5 minutes total. I bought two dremel bits: both are tungsten carbide cutters - one is cylindrical and one is cone shaped (Dremel part numbers 9901 and 9910.) I took the mag apart so that I was only working on the tube. I used the cone shaped bit to open up the hole that is already in the MecGar CZ mag - I made it a little bit wider but mainly elongated it up toward top of the magazine. Then I took the cylindrical one and ran it straight up to the top of the mag until I was at the same height as the top of the square on the mag that came with the K100. Put the mag back together and it seats up in the K100 just as well as the mag that came with it. I'll modify the other two CZ mags I have after firing the K100 with the modified mags and making sure that the mags still function in the Shadow (I don't see why this isn't going to work, but you never know.) I've attached a picture of one of the finished mags. Notice my upward cut isn't even perfectly straight (just did it freehand) and it still works.

I'll post back after I've shot the gun, which could be as early as tomorrow or as late as Thursday. If this worked, it's extremely easy to do.

Edited April 28, 2013 by cpa5oh

[NicVerAZ]

Yes, you are right, sorry about the B word, but did you go out and shoot the damn gun?

If yes, what do you think of it?

Before mentioning modifying anything, i think you ought to familiarize yourself with the GP and once you are there, see what you could do to make it work the way you like.

Mag release extender, sights are the most common add ons. I personally play with springs, especially for competition, non defensive load which pack barely over 300 joules, but that's me. I will not give any information on this particular mod.

But before you go and do anything, go and run a few hundred rounds and report your impression.

And don't get all upset over language, I am the coolest guy here.

[rebsimeanblackbears]

Where can one get recoil springs for these?

[NicVerAZ]

There are none. You need to cross reference but it is at your own risk.

Not advised as an immediate mood.

[Canuck223]

Where can one get recoil springs for these?

Familiar chorus, scream at Century.

Now to be honest, the recoil springs in the K100 last a hell of a lot longer than in a 1911.

I took the origional out of my Mk6 and compared it to a brand new spring. 10K in live fire and the origional spring was only half a coil shorter.

[PINMAN44]

Content removed at the member's request due to the business-related nature of the post.

[mauk517]

Trust me folks, physical support is a huge concern and I understand. Century is working on improving their inventory, magazines, parts, etc.

Robby

Hi Robby,

I just bought my pistol from j&G a few weeks back and I was just curious, when I tried to pull down the trigger guard, it will not pivot down, the plastic will just bend a little and its not holding it open as I let go thus its very hard to take of the slide. Is this normal ?do any of you guys experienced this? any help would be appreciated.

-mark

Edited April 28, 2013 by mauk517

[rebsimeanblackbears]

I'm not Robby, but I pull it down just far enough that I can push it to the side. Then, the trigger guard can rest on the frame as you take the slide off.

[Canuck223]

Trust me folks, physical support is a huge concern and I understand. Century is working on improving their inventory, magazines, parts, etc.

Robby

Hi Robby,

I just bought my pistol from j&G a few weeks back and I was just curious, when I tried to pull down the trigger guard, it will not pivot down, the plastic will just bend a little and its not holding it open as I let go thus its very hard to take of the slide. Is this normal ?do any of you guys experienced this? any help would be appreciated.

-mark

I'm not Robby, but I pull it down just far enough that I can push it to the side. Then, the trigger guard can rest on the frame as you take the slide off.

The trigger guard is not a hinge. It's pinned in place by the mag catch tube and the trigger guard pin.

The trigger guard also acts as a built in shock buff, so there has to be a little flex.

When the gun is brand new and it's unfamiliar to you, it can seem hard. Like Rebsimeanblackbears mentions, you can push it a little to the side to hold.

One exercise I recommend to get to know the gun, is this,

Pop the trigger guard down, but don't pull it out of the frame.

Draw the slide back and try to hold it while you gently pull the trigger guard enough to allow the slide to come back the rest of the way.

It doesn't need to be completely out of the frame.

It's sort of like reassembling a 1911, and trying to get the link in the right position.

It's not hard, except when it's new to you.

[mauk517]

Trust me folks, physical support is a huge concern and I understand. Century is working on improving their inventory, magazines, parts, etc.

Robby

Hi Robby,

I just bought my pistol from j&G a few weeks back and I was just curious, when I tried to pull down the trigger guard, it will not pivot down, the plastic will just bend a little and its not holding it open as I let go thus its very hard to take of the slide. Is this normal ?do any of you guys experienced this? any help would be appreciated.

-mark

I'm not Robby, but I pull it down just far enough that I can push it to the side. Then, the trigger guard can rest on the frame as you take the slide off.

The trigger guard is not a hinge. It's pinned in place by the mag catch tube and the trigger guard pin.

The trigger guard also acts as a built in shock buff, so there has to be a little flex.

When the gun is brand new and it's unfamiliar to you, it can seem hard. Like Rebsimeanblackbears mentions, you can push it a little to the side to hold.

One exercise I recommend to get to know the gun, is this,

Pop the trigger guard down, but don't pull it out of the frame.

Draw the slide back and try to hold it while you gently pull the trigger guard enough to allow the slide to come back the rest of the way.

It doesn't need to be completely out of the frame.

It's sort of like reassembling a 1911, and trying to get the link in the right position.

It's not hard, except when it's new to you.

thanks for all the info.

[cpa5oh]

Shot the gun with the modified mags - it was raining and I was trying to be quick.

Obviously the factory mag functioned perfectly.
One of the modified CZ mags ran a hole mag worth of ammo perfectly.
Two of them kept releasing after the second shot just enough to where a third round wouldn't feed. They didn't fall out on the ground, but they were not locked in place and able to feed rounds.

I noticed that the mag that functioned was opened up higher, so I opened the other two up higher (just about 1/16th of an inch higher than the square cutout in the factory K100 mag.)

I then cycled dummy rounds through the K100 - three in each mag. One of the modified mags would lock the slide before the 3rd round chambered. I noticed that one was slightly lower than the other two, so I opened it up higher and it no longer locked the slide back.

So now I need to get back to the range and shoot the gun again with each mag and make sure they function. I'd suggest whoever tries this to have a better pattern and take their time to get a more exact cutout than I did, but these ugly cutouts might work okay for me.

The modified mags functioned fine in my Shadow - so that was unaffected. The K100 mags don't stay locked in my Shadow.

[cpa5oh]

As a follow up, I shot the CZ magazines (with the added width to the notch in the center of the mag) through the K100 last night. I only shot 5 rounds through each mag, but the mags stayed in and the gun functioned fine. I didn't have a holster (coming in today's mail) so I shot another gun in my practice drills, but I'll be running this gun in practice over the next few days. If you are following this because you're interested in making CZ mags work in this gun (and maybe nobody is/cares,) if I don't respond back to this thread assume that the mags as I described I modified them above work fine.

[rebsimeanblackbears]

Interested to hear how it works. I e-mailed Century yesterday about mags and parts; I'll let you know what I hear.

[PINMAN44]

Hey guy,

I'll make some field strip videos for you shortly. Been very ill with a Gall bladder that needs to go soon. Basically, make sure the firearm is completely empty first. Magazine out of the firearm and rack the slide to make sure no round is in the gun. After there is complete confirmation of an empty gun do the following:

1. With the slide forward and the hammer cocked (fully rearward) take your weak hand trigger and middle finger and thumb grasp the trigger guard and pull straight down.

2. Move the trigger guard slightly til it catches either side of the frame

3. When clear of the frame grasp the slide firmly from the rear serrations pull back and up slightly, then the whole Slide assembly (barrel, recoil spring) should move forward and come completely off.

I'll make a video tonight,

Robby

[NicVerAZ]

Thanks, Robby, we need that. And good luck with the health issues.

On a side note, what oil does everyone favor?

I have come to favor this one:

http://www.mpro7.com/mpro7-gun-oil-lpx.html

You can be somewhat generous and it will stay where you put it. Generous is good with this gun.

I have tried our dear host's Slide Glide, it worked ok but was nowhere near as good as LPX.

Edited May 1, 2013 by NicVerAZ

[rebsimeanblackbears]

One trick pony here: I just use FP-10 on all of mine. It has worked fine so far.

[Canuck223]

Hey guy,

I'll make some field strip videos for you shortly. Been very ill with a Gall bladder that needs to go soon. Basically, make sure the firearm is completely empty first. Magazine out of the firearm and rack the slide to make sure no round is in the gun. After there is complete confirmation of an empty gun do the following:

1. With the slide forward and the hammer cocked (fully rearward) take your weak hand trigger and middle finger and thumb grasp the trigger guard and pull straight down.

2. Move the trigger guard slightly til it catches either side of the frame

3. When clear of the frame grasp the slide firmly from the rear serrations pull back and up slightly, then the whole Slide assembly (barrel, recoil spring) should move forward and come completely off.

I'll make a video tonight,

Robby

I'm sure Robby will produce something better, but in the mean time I'll exploit my 11 year old cameraman and try to get something up.

http://s455.photobucket.com/user/Canuck223/media/GP6/X-Calibur/DSCF1743_zpsfc6a1b9a.mp4.html

So Cecil B DeDaddy asked Jacob to try to focus between my shoulders. I should have perhaps added the suggestion that he try to keep the gun in the center.... Not perfect, but he works for Skittles....

Edited May 2, 2013 by Canuck223

[Canuck223]

One trick pony here: I just use FP-10 on all of mine. It has worked fine so far.

I have used Break Free, Miltec, bearing grease, and once ATF right off the trucks dipstick.

I haven't found one that didn't work.

When the conditions are not dusty or super cold, I have run my MK6 for 1000+ using plain old green bearing grease smeared lightly on the cam path and at the barrels contact points.

I know Jaroslav has suggested breaking the gun in with the synthetic oil used for diesel engines.

My advice is try what you are comfortable with. Overclean the gun at first if only to see where the oil and powder fouling seems to accumulate, what might seem to be running dry, what seems to need less care, etc. If nothing else it will build up your comfort with the system.

[PINMAN44]

Hey guys,

Let me know if this link does not work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SsLlbl3R6w

Thanks,

Robby