S&W Model 10

[Endurokids]

I recently re-found my old Model 10 in the back of the safe and want to put it into use again.

I guess I'm looking for info on where to get a holster, speedloaders and holders for USPSA style shooting. Leather holster prefered but not opposed to plastic if it's the only option.

It's a 6" barrel .38 police special with a Hogue grip on it.

I only intend to shoot it at our league shoots for now, but who knows.

How is the .38 special for reloading?

I reload 9mm now so it would only take dies to reload these too.

Any info would be helpfull.

Thanks!

[kevinj308]

I went with Ready Tactical for my Model 10 stuff, here's the link. http://www.cpwsa.com/ready_tactical.htm

Been really happy with it.

[PatJones]

I went with a Dropped & Offset holster from Blade Tech for my 627. Kydex seemed a little more durable with all the draws I'll be doing. The kydex does rub the finish, but it's a dedicated competition gun so that's ok to me. It's also production legal; my 8 shot gun isn't welcome in revo.

The Bianchi "Cup Challenge" 002 holster is a good value and quicker than mine:

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/holsters-belt-gear/holsters/002-cup-challenge-revolver-holster-prod12485.aspx#.UK-NB4bhfro

Someone who owns one may have to chime in, but I believe the basket weave one has some sort of leather lining over the plastic. Virtually all of the local ICORE crowd use this holster.

For speedloaders you definitely want the Safariland Comp III's:

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/cylinder-speedloaders/comp-iii-speedloader-prod12501.aspx#.UK-PSIbhfro

you will want the 002 ones for the K frame.

Safariland makes 2 styles of speedloader holders:

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/speedloader-holders-carriers/speedloader-holder-prod12496.aspx#.UK-Qbobhfro

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/speedloader-holders-carriers/333-speedloader-carrier-prod12500.aspx#.UK-RDYbhfro

I shoot moonclips, so I don't really know what the best option is for holders.

.38 is easy to load for.

Bring more ammo to the line than needed to complete the stage. Revo shooters make more tactical reloads.

Welcome to revo, reloading is fun.

-pat

[Patrick1981]

Don't buy the Safariland single speedloader holster, it's good only for loose your rounds on the ground..

And also..if you want to shoot some Idpa match, not Idpa legal.

3X holster is also good, but if you find the TKW speedloader holster, my opinion is the best

[johnmac]

I use Bladetech kydex holsters for my revolvers, I like them alot. They seem much better suited for competition, and repeated drawing practice, than leather. Although I prefer leather (Kramer) holsters for revolver carry.

Regarding reloading, most of the S&W fixed sight 38 Special revolvers are set up for 158 grain bullets for point of impact from the factory. So I'd start with 158 grainers and see if you are getting the correct point of impact before experimenting with ligher & faster loads. 3.7 grains of Bullseye over a well-crimped 158 grain lead round-nose gives me about 750 FPS from a 4" tube. That's a bit shy of 125 PF, but I suspect that with a 6" barrel, that load would easily give you enough velocity to make 125 PF.

The 158 grain lead semi wad cutters (LSWC) will impede your speedloader reloads, the sharp shoulder will hang up on your cylinders more often than not. Round nose is the way to go if reloads on the clock are involved. I find these 158 grain lead round nose from Missouri Bullet Company highly satisfactory (and economical): http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=76&category=5&secondary=9&keywords=

You might also want to consider slapping some red nail polish on the front sight ramp, and some Jerry Miculek grips for K-frame. I find the smoothness and large size of the JM grips very helpful for the draw, and gun manipulation on reload.

Safariland Comp 3's are hard to beat as a speedloader solution. I like the North Mountain speedloader holders.

John

[toothguy]

http://4wheelguns.com/index.html

Good stuff here also.

Edited November 23, 2012 by toothguy

[chirpy]

Try Fist holsters for a leather holster. I have one they made for me and I use it for IDPA and it is great. .38 spl. is a snap to reload so don't sweat it. If you use your M10 for USPSA you will have a lot of fun but be at a big disadvantage shooting minor pf because there is no way to safely make major w/.38 spl. and I am sure no RO will let you shoot Major in a .38 spl.! Safariland Comp. III or Jet Loaders are the way to go for speedloaders. If you are realy interested in being competitive w/a revo sell the 10 and pick up a S&W 625. I wish I had done that in the beginning!!!!!

FWIW

Richard

[toothguy]

Might be fun to look for an old law enforcement rig. I see them in army surplus stores, cheap. The belts are usually about a 52" waist but you could cut them down.

Edited November 23, 2012 by toothguy

[Endurokids]

Thanks to all for the replies!

Does anyone know what frame (K,L, etc) the model 10 is?

I'll reload the 158's to start, after I shoot the factory loads I just bought.

I'm just trying out the wheel gun shooting for now, but if it follows everything I do, I'll be ending up with a JM Smith or Ruger GP100 sometime soon.

Any used items out there?

[JohnMajor]

Model 10 is a K frame.

Another leather holster option is Lobo leather http://www.lobogunleather.com/ - I have an enhanced Avenger for a 4" Model 10 that I use in IDPA. Ray does nice work and is great to work with.

[kevinj308]

Got an ICORE club in your area? That gun is great for Classic Division ICORE.

[Endurokids]

Shot it over the weekend and realized that there isn't much room between the gun body and the cylinder to fit the speedloader.

Has anyone used a speedloader with this model?

I would hate to spend all that money to find out it is the wrong pistol for this.

It sure shoots sweet though.

[jhgtyre]

Is it the gun getting in the way or the grips? I've seen a lot of grips that have been cut down to allow for better clearance so that may be your issue. I just use Hogue grips and don't have a problem with them getting in the way.

-ld

[Bubber]

Shot it over the weekend and realized that there isn't much room between the gun body and the cylinder to fit the speedloader.

Has anyone used a speedloader with this model?

I would hate to spend all that money to find out it is the wrong pistol for this.

It sure shoots sweet though.

I have for a few years. As jhgtyre suggests it may be the grips in the way. Depending on your definition of competitiveness one may be very competitive with the set up. Later rdd

[johnmac]

Reloads can be pretty slick with a K frame. But, as others have said, bulky grips are not helpful. S&W wooden factory "target" stocks would be about the worst. Some of the Pachmyer rubber grips are a bit bulky as well.

I'd look for a smooth, non-finger groove, fairly slim grip that fits your hand well, and allows a "high" grip. If your M10 is square butt, you could even throw on some junker WW2 Victory grips, with a T-grip or other grip adapter, for a functional "retro" look that would work pretty well for fast double action work.

Edited November 26, 2012 by johnmac

[PatJones]

The L frame revolvers (Mod 686 and it's cousins) have more room for speedloaders. The L-frame is taller to allow for more metal around the forcing cone, this makes the yoke taller too so the cylinder protrudes further to the left when it's open. Thinner grips will benefit a K Frame.

-pat

[Toolguy]

Also, you can bevel the bottom side of the thumblatch or just trade out the old one for a new style.

[M1911]

.38 Spcl is easy to reload with one caveat: with modern powders often times you can't easily see far enough into a .38 Spcl case to visually check your powder charge. If you have enough stations on your press, a powder-check die is a good idea.

[PatJones]

.38 Spcl is easy to reload with one caveat: with modern powders often times you can't easily see far enough into a .38 Spcl case to visually check your powder charge. If you have enough stations on your press, a powder-check die is a good idea.

I second this. This problem combined with aging eyes led to the retirement of my 4 station progressive.

-pat

[Endurokids]

Thanks to all. I'm using a Dillon 550 and visually check my loads frequently.

Just ordered a Comp 3 to check on how I like it. If it works to my liking, I'll order 6 more with loading block and belt holders.

I just want to make sure that the old M10 will work out for me.

If not, I'll be looking for a 357 S&W of some sort. I have med size hands and the M10 fits well, although a GP100 fits better.

[COF]

Absolutely nothing wrong with a GP100. You can tune the action down do a very doable DA and I haven't found one yet that wasn't accurate. According to Bones and a couple others, the K frame loads quicker than an L frame or GP100, so take that into consideration as well.

[No.343]

.38 Spcl is easy to reload with one caveat: with modern powders often times you can't easily see far enough into a .38 Spcl case to visually check your powder charge. If you have enough stations on your press, a powder-check die is a good idea.

I second this. This problem combined with aging eyes led to the retirement of my 4 station progressive.

-pat

Pat, check out LED light strips. www.inlinefabrication.com has some. You might be able to use your progressive again.

[M1911]

Pat, check out LED light strips. www.inlinefabrication.com has some. You might be able to use your progressive again.

Cool! That looks like just what I need.

[Endurokids]

Great site. I could use some more lighting and perhaps a roller lever. Thanks!

[No.343]

Here in Oklahoma we are all good at shutting the gate after the cows get out. After I blew up my 625 I knew that I needed a different lighting solution and found those LED strips. In the web page they show a set up with two different light strips and I bought them. I found that I only need one.