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How do YOU set the crimp die on your Dillon 9mm dies using lead (coate


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My seating die takes out the bell.

It doesn't feel like my Dillon crimp die is doing a whole lot (or I haven't set it up right)

Jim, the seating die doesn't take out the bell on my Square Deal.

It just shoves the bullet into the case.

The next (fourth) die takes out the bell - and nothing more.

Dillon had set up my crimp die at the factory before they

shipped it to me, and I've never fiddled with it - seems okay.

The first SqD I bought, I played with the crimp die - used trial

and error to get it just right - made sure the bell was gone by

ensuring the cartridge slipped into the chamber perfectly and then

tried various amounts of crimp so the bullet wasn't damaged, and

the accuracy was good - then once I set it, I haven't moved it

since.

Shouldn't matter if its a lead or jacketed bullet.

:cheers:

Edited by Hi-Power Jack
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Hi Jack,

I've used Lyman and Lee dies for around 30 years and this is the first time I've used Dillon.

The seating die is definately not only seating the projectile, but also taking the bell out of the case mouth (crimping??) I've checked with calipers before seating and after seating. Even using calipers I can't get the crimp die to do (or feel) as if its doing anything.

I'll be back out in the reloading room again today mucking around some more.

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U should screw the seat die down till it just touches an empty brass case when the shellplate is all the way up. Then loosen the entire die body about 2 turns and lock it down. Then run a case with a bullet in it into the die, then only adj the seating portion of the die for your desired OAL.

Hope I explained that right, good luck

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When I adjust a taper crimp die, no matter the caliber, the procedure is the same: Put a sized, unflared, empty case into the last postion. Pull the handle down. Let go of the handle. With my fingers only, screw the die down until I feel it contact the case mouth. Lift the handle up slightly, hold it there while I screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. Push the handle down, running the case back up into the die. With the case up in the die, tighten the die lock ring.

The Dillon seat die does not remove the flare completely. However, it will remove any excess flare :ie, if the case is excessively flared that it contacts the interior of the die body, it will be reduced.

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Put a sized, empty case into last postion. Pull handle down. With my fingers only, screw the die down until it contacts the case mouth. Lift the handle up slightly, hold it there while I screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. Push the handle down, running the case back up into the die. With the case up in the die, tighten the die lock ring.

That sounds like a GREAT way to adjust the crimp die - Thanks,

:cheers:

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When I adjust a taper crimp die, no matter the caliber, the procedure is the same: Put a sized, unflared, empty case into the last postion. Pull the handle down. Let go of the handle. With my fingers only, screw the die down until I feel it contact the case mouth. Lift the handle up slightly, hold it there while I screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. Push the handle down, running the case back up into the die. With the case up in the die, tighten the die lock ring.

The Dillon seat die does not remove the flare completely. However, it will remove any excess flare :ie, if the case is excessively flared that it contacts the interior of the die body, it will be reduced.

Thanks :)

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I have a different method, that may or may not meet with some consternation. I double crimp.

Station 4: lee FCD

Station 5: dillon crimp die

I run the same setup in 45 and 9mm. I ran into some problems with both calibers loading rounds I to different guns. I run a redding comp seater in station three, this removes most of the bell, lee FCD does it's thing, and dillon taper crimp ensures that the case mouth doesn't hang up on anything.

Once I have oal setup, I put a loaded round in station 4 and tighten the stem until I meet resistance. Station 5 I Titan down until I can see that it has tapered the case mouth ever so slightly! Feeding heaven... For me.

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  • 10 years later...
On 9/22/2012 at 8:06 AM, Scootertheshooter said:

I lower the tapper crimp gradually until the round falls in the barrel or case gauge and lock er in.

 

That's the process - Crimp, measure, plunk. In order for the Brazos bullet to pass the plunk test with Starline brass, the crimp is at 0.376. Just like previous pictures, it has marks on the lead bullet showing the crimp.

 

I was able to get the crimp up to 0.377", please see picture below,

 

https://ibb.co/zrKpFmF

 

What do I do - buy another 1,000 0.356" bullets from another manufacturer or use these with a tight 0.377" crimp?

Edited by Orion1
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