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Lifeislarge

Full Synthetic Oil and Lube

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Motor oils are designed to maintain a specific viscosity and lubrication under specific operating conditions which exist inside an engine. The average passenger car motor oil is basically designed to function properly when heated to roughly 200 degrees, which is about the average oil temp when the engine is at its normal warmed up temp. The other major thing to consider is that motors are designed to function with a constant flow of oil to the bearings. The goal of this continually flowing oil is to create an oil barrier between the mating parts so they never actually touch.

Since our pistols do not have a recirculating oiling system, like an engine, its more important to pick a lubricant that stays were you put it. Heavy oils or Light Greases are what we need to maintain proper lubrication between cleans/relubrication. If you can find an oil or grease of the proper viscosity that also contains an Extreme Pressure Polymer additive that is an extra bonus when it comes to friction reduction.

I use Slide Glide Standard on most everything within the gun (Slide Rails, Barrel, Locking Lugs, Trigger Bar, etc). This stuff sticks where you put it and lasts many thousands of rounds before wearing off. It also makes cleaning the gun a lot easier because it acts as a barrier between the burnt powder and the internal components. The carbon sticks to the slide glide instead of the parts. For the small parts with pins (Sear Pin, Hammer Pin, Hammer Hooks, Trigger Pin, Extractor Pin, etc) I use a 50/50 mixture of Mobil 1 15w-50 and Prolong Engine Treatment Additive. The 15w-50 motor oil is thick enough to stick were I want it but thin enough to work on the small stuff. The Prolong engine treatment is an extreme pressure polymer additive which greatly reduces the friction between parts.

Using this combination of lubricants I can EASILY go 5000+ rounds between cleans and even then the gun is still well lubricated but very dirty with carbon buildup. I usually clean my guns on a 5000 round basis simply because I want to get in and inspect the parts, replace springs, or perform whatever preventive maintenance is needed to make me feel better about shooting the gun. One time I let this lubrication package go for 10,000 rounds and it was still lubricated pretty well but needed a new recoil spring so I cleaned it all up while replacing the spring.

Now I want to finish this off by stating that if you are a shooter who cleans their gun after every range session (less than 500 rounds of shooting) it probably makes ZERO difference in what kind of lubrication you use on the gun. You could probably use the extra mayonnaise dripping from your sandwich as lube and it would provide effective lubrication that would last the few hundred rounds of shooting you do between cleans. All of this stuff needs to be put into perspective. If you are cleaning your gun all the time and relubricating it does not matter what lubrication you are using because it will always have a fresh dose of lube.

Spoilsport...

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CHA-LEE,

We only have to repackage it and can make "crazy" money from it! Even warm and cold weather versions!!!

NF0428417S.jpg

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If you want ultimate stickiness use Lucas oil treatment. Stuff is AMAZING.

I agree, shockproof oil from redline is fantastic stuff. Mix it and you shoot A shots only!!!

But seriously, it's what I use, and use in my cars/trucks/race cars etc. works great in my guns too.

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I use Mobil 1 and Slide Glide on my Limited, SS and Open guns. Very light coating of Slide Glide on the barrel lugs along with the Mobil 1.

As to changing oil in my car every 3000 miles I don't do it. My car has an all aluminum V-8, 11.5 to 1 compression ratio, appx 435 HP. I change the SYNTHETIC oil and filter every 10,000 miles and was told I did not need to change it that often. So far my guns and car are showing no signs of wear.

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Since it seems that almost all posts are somewhat related to oil changes- get a sample sent to blackstone laboratories if you want to know ACTUAL distances you can go on your oil changes SAFELY.

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No one has tried the Mobil 1 oil / ATF, 50/50 mix?

No but I clean with ATF, leaving a light film on most internals, and lube with Mobil 1, so I effectively use a blend of the two.

This combo is what I run all of my firearms with, and it hasn't done me wrong.

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Mobile 1 works great with or without Dextron ATF.

For sure. I've cleaned my 1911s with Mobil 1 a few times and found it to be most satisfactory.

As far as ATF, I have a couple of rifles that I've exclusively used ATF on. No issues with them.

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My .02 is that other than thick grease not working in low temps I have not heard of any problems with any of the listed lubes, just preferences. This makes me think this is one of the things we screw around with just because we can rather than because we have to. I also don't think making lube choices for guns based on performance in autos is the best choice. Auto lubrication is a pressurized system with constant reapplication of the lubricant to the moving parts. Not really the case with firearms. A more appropriate choice would probably be to look at things like chain lubes. I imagine the chain lube I have from bafck when I used to pour my money into motorcycle racing would work dang well as a gun lube. Slippery as anything and designed to cling under high lateral forces.

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