Full Synthetic Oil and Lube

[Postal Bob]

Mobil 1 is fantastic. Even after an all day match in 90 degree weather, the oil is still on the rails. It doesn't evaporate or sling off. And if you start with a clean barrel, run a patch full of Mobil 1 down the barrel, then a clean patch. The barrel does not get full of copper fouling. My cleaning routine after a match is to run a dry brush through the bore a few times. Then a patch full of Mobil 1, then a dry patch. There are hardly any traces of copper fouling in the bore after the last few months. I have yet to use any bore cleaning solution to clean the bore. Once the season is over, then I'll use some bore cleaner, and coat the barrel with Mobil 1 before storing for winter.

And using it in shotgun barrels is even better. Whenever I used to clean the shotgun after a day of skeet shooting, there would be lots of plastic wad residue on the cleaning patches. Now I swab the bore with Mobil 1 before shooting. And after a day of skeet shooting, there is barely any plastic residue in the barrel when I clean it.

Like Mobil 1 advertises, the oil seems to molecularly bond with metal, and this includes in the bores of the barrels. And somehow this creates a protective layer in the bores which keep them from getting fouled from jackected bullets, or the plastic from shotgun wads. I don't know the whole scientific reason behind it, but it works. It is barely any work now to clean my guns.

[Sarge]

Mobile 1 on the rails and hammer/FP stop, and bbl to slide/bushing. SG light on the bbl lugs an slide stop. CLP to wipe it down before putting it back in the safe.

:huh: :huh: I wasn't in the military. Don't speak acronym.

I was in the military and I don't see one single military acronym in that post.

FP, bbl, SG, CLP, DUH, WTF, WWJD, :blink:

LMFAO

[MikeRush]

No one has tried the Mobil 1 oil / ATF, 50/50 mix?

I use mobil 1 motor oil, and mobil 1 ATF mixed 50/50 in a syringe. Don't know that it lubricates any better, but it seems to do better with keeping the rust off than straight oil did. Plus it makes me feel like a mad scientist when I measure in mL and fill the syringe I use to apply it. Keeping my 1911 wet with this stuff makes it very happy.

[sirveyr]

I lube my guns with the free $hit that falls to bottom of my goodie bags. After tens of thousands of rounds and using whatever lube that happens to be on the shelf, and within reach, I see no reason to change now.

[FightFireJay]

I can't help but get involved in this thread. I am not in the oil industry but I am a trained mechanic and have been through some training on Oil. I would like to dispel a few rumors and then talk about lubricating guns...

-all motor oils "molecularly bond" with engine parts because they all have copper, zinc, phosphorous, molybdenum, and other additives that help to "fill in the gaps" and effectively make metal parts "smoother"

-under typical (non racing, non diesel crazy pressure injectors), the additives will make a bigger difference in wear than (up to 3k miles or more) than synthetic vs petroleum

-in order to get ASE certified, oils must meet minimum and maximum levels of certain additives, so most off the shelf oils are not to different.

-being fully synthetic is most important under extremely high pressure and high heat (more than driving your hot rod hemi pick up to work or even hauling a load of concrete block in the back) because it resists shearing (oil molecules getting cut into pieces). This also allows it to be used longer than "conventional petroleum" oils.

-many good synthetics are made from "Dino juice" that has actually been broken down into small pieces and then "built" back up more precisely than nature did it.

-it is OKAY to mix nearly any engine oil (synthetic or conventional)

-(for you Harley guys) synthetic oil will NOT cause roller/ball bearings to slide instead of roll because it is "too slippery"

-a royal purple rep actually told me that conventional base oils are about 2% slipperier than synth (can't back that one up)

-Engines Oils can be made of pure conventional petroleum Dino juice and still be labeled as "semisynthetic" and even full synthetic because there is no certification proccess or even an Industry standard.

-automatic transmissions, engines, manual transmissions, engines with wet clutches, and gear boxes all need different kinds of oils... Why would we think that a gun needs the exact oil that one of those uses?

-IF I was going to use a motor vehicle lubricant on my fire arm, I would use one of these...

Shockproof - has what I believe are polymer "bits" (similar to TW25B gun lube) that act as slippery cushions between metal.

Redline Shockproof (great for H-D Bigtwin Trannies, bad for sportsters)

Assembly lube - made to stay where you put it when assembling an Engine. Also contains wear reducing additives (I use this on my press)

Lucas Oil Assembly Lube

In a pinch I would use just about any lube I could find, but if I HAD to choose a motor oil, it would be Harley Davidson non synthetic straight 60w motor oil. Motorcycle oil has higher additive levels, and this particular oil has NO "friction modifiers" that are needed for wet clutches, plus it is thicker than others, so likely to stay where I put it.

But my FAVORITE is this.... "Gun Oil"

Edited September 23, 2012 by FightFireJay

[FightFireJay]

I use mobil 1 motor oil, and mobil 1 ATF mixed 50/50 in a syringe. Don't know that it lubricates any better... ...Plus it makes me feel like a mad scientist when I measure in mL and fill the syringe I use to apply it...

That is the BEST reason I have ever heard for using motor oil! I'd be worried my wife and dog would think I was doing drugs in the garage when they saw the syringe, ROFLMAO.

[MikeRush]

I use mobil 1 motor oil, and mobil 1 ATF mixed 50/50 in a syringe. Don't know that it lubricates any better... ...Plus it makes me feel like a mad scientist when I measure in mL and fill the syringe I use to apply it...

That is the BEST reason I have ever heard for using motor oil! I'd be worried my wife and dog would think I was doing drugs in the garage when they saw the syringe, ROFLMAO.

I know what you mean- my dad was I bit concerned when I called him asking if he had any syringes right after signing up for a gym membership again- pure coincidence! The syringe makes it really easy to apply right where you want it, but I would recommend mixing it before you get it in the syringe. I tried drawing both liquids in and shaking it with no luck. Had to force it all out, stir it, and then draw again.

[Bob DuBois]

Mobil 1 5W30 on my third quart used on firearms only. Cheaper than gun oil and it work Great. Gave away most of the gun lubricants I had to new shooters. The little 4oz oilers from Brownells are the way to go to get into tight places. clean and oil the pistol and Mobil 1 stays till the next cleaning and the slide/action is slick. Won't gum up, all positive.

[Front Man]

My guns are so tight that oil is too thin to stay in place and gets slung out quickly. I like a little more clingy. Motor oil works fine, but its really designed for engine temps.

Shoot faster; that wil get the temps up

[Lifeislarge]

Actually there's not much difference between the temperature of the combustion chamber in a gas engine and the combustion chamber of a gun. The only difference is the RPM of an engine produces more tiny explosions than a gun can produce in a given time span. Ever heard of the barrel of a machine gun melting off? Friction is friction and the point is to reduce friction as much as possible so that the engine parts or the gun parts move as freely as possible with the least amount of wear. Logic tells me that if an engine running at 8000 rpm can run better and be protected better by a certain type of lube, then so should a gun cycling at a much slower rate. Engine tolerances are WAY tighter than gun tolerances, measured in thousandths of an inch between bearing surfaces. Show me a gun cut that tightly that can cycle, let alone shoot.

[Croomrider]

Engine tolerances are WAY tighter than gun tolerances, measured in thousandths of an inch between bearing surfaces. Show me a gun cut that tightly that can cycle, let alone shoot.

The rails on a good custom 1911 style gun are usually fit with around .001-.002 clearance. That is tighter than most piston to cylinder fits. However, the piston cycles thousands of times per minute and that is not the case with a 1911.

Mike

[Lifeislarge]

Engine tolerances are WAY tighter than gun tolerances, measured in thousandths of an inch between bearing surfaces. Show me a gun cut that tightly that can cycle, let alone shoot.

The rails on a good custom 1911 style gun are usually fit with around .001-.002 clearance. That is tighter than most piston to cylinder fits. However, the piston cycles thousands of times per minute and that is not the case with a 1911.

Mike

On a 6500 RPM Chev 350 build the main and rod bearings are fit to .0025 on the main and .0022 on the rods (sometimes tighter, sometimes looser). On LeMans cars it can be a lot tighter than that. Add WAY higher torque and load on the bearings and you can see what I mean in the comparison.

[wes777]

Actually there's not much difference between the temperature of the combustion chamber in a gas engine and the combustion chamber of a gun. The only difference is the RPM of an engine produces more tiny explosions than a gun can produce in a given time span. Ever heard of the barrel of a machine gun melting off? Friction is friction and the point is to reduce friction as much as possible so that the engine parts or the gun parts move as freely as possible with the least amount of wear. Logic tells me that if an engine running at 8000 rpm can run better and be protected better by a certain type of lube, then so should a gun cycling at a much slower rate. Engine tolerances are WAY tighter than gun tolerances, measured in thousandths of an inch between bearing surfaces. Show me a gun cut that tightly that can cycle, let alone shoot.

I have tried syn Mobile 1 on a machine gun, smokes like crazy, runs like your grandmas sewing machine. Smoke was so bad that we quit using it (might have been bc it was diesel truck synthetic). Only time i have seen 240B "wipe" clean after 3k rds. My gunner couldnt believe it, when I told him to try it and when I told him to stop.

[redmanfixit]

Mobil 1/ ATF 50/50 with micro milled teflon added. Excellent for AR's. Excellent generally. You can make LOTS, cheap. I use Slick 50 grease on my competition guns. If I were to go back to the field I wouldn't grease them because they'd get too dirty and maybe not run. But they'd be pretty well permanently lubed because of the way micron size teflon particulates work into the metal structure. SCIENCE!

[FightFireJay]

Friction is friction and the point is to reduce friction as much as possible so that the engine parts or the gun parts move as freely as possible with the least amount of wear. Logic tells me that if an engine running at 8000 rpm can run better and be protected better by a certain type of lube, then so should a gun cycling at a much slower rate.

Extrapolation can be a dangerous form of logic...

-Windex is an excellent cleaner while bleach cleans and disinfects. If we try combining them to make a better cleaner we will actually release Ammonia gas which can chemically burn your lungs and even kill you.

-I know that wheel bearing grease does an excellent job of protecting the hubs on my friends boat trailer and keeps moisture away so they don't rust, if I extrapolate that to the boat, and put some in the oil system, my friend will be very upset when his boat engine seizes due to lack of oil flow

-I know that Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil is bad ass oil in my Father's big truck and he has several hundred thousand miles on that engine. So I put it in my wife's little gasoline car, but it slowly allows for the deterioration of the plain bearings because diesel oil doesn't contain additives that stabilize acidity levels (a byproduct of gasoline combustion but not diesel).

-I know that here in Phoenix in the summer a straight 60 weight oil will protect my buddy's knucklehead Harley. It has loose tolerances and needs a thick oil to maintain oil pressure. Extrapolation tells me I can put this oil in my Suzuki SV-1000S V-twin sportbike for extra summer protection. But since it is water cooled, it's high temperature is the same in winter or summer, and now the plain bearing crank (not roller like the H-D) that was engineered for 10w40 is not getting the pressure it needs and bearings quickly wear, especially during cold starts.

Every application has specific needs from its oil and many applications are engineered with specific lubrication in mind.

I think we get away with using many things for firearms because it's just not that critical, as long as we use SOMETHING.

Again, I will make my one endorsement, that is for a very light grease style lube (for most parts on my AR and pistols) because it will stay where we want it, and one that has "micro polymer" bits in it, they act as tiny buffers whenever 2 pieces of metal slam together. TWB25 is my lube of choice.

[Lifeislarge]

Friction is friction and the point is to reduce friction as much as possible so that the engine parts or the gun parts move as freely as possible with the least amount of wear. Logic tells me that if an engine running at 8000 rpm can run better and be protected better by a certain type of lube, then so should a gun cycling at a much slower rate.

Extrapolation can be a dangerous form of logic...

-Windex is an excellent cleaner while bleach cleans and disinfects. If we try combining them to make a better cleaner we will actually release Ammonia gas which can chemically burn your lungs and even kill you.

-I know that wheel bearing grease does an excellent job of protecting the hubs on my friends boat trailer and keeps moisture away so they don't rust, if I extrapolate that to the boat, and put some in the oil system, my friend will be very upset when his boat engine seizes due to lack of oil flow

-I know that Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil is bad ass oil in my Father's big truck and he has several hundred thousand miles on that engine. So I put it in my wife's little gasoline car, but it slowly allows for the deterioration of the plain bearings because diesel oil doesn't contain additives that stabilize acidity levels (a byproduct of gasoline combustion but not diesel).

-I know that here in Phoenix in the summer a straight 60 weight oil will protect my buddy's knucklehead Harley. It has loose tolerances and needs a thick oil to maintain oil pressure. Extrapolation tells me I can put this oil in my Suzuki SV-1000S V-twin sportbike for extra summer protection. But since it is water cooled, it's high temperature is the same in winter or summer, and now the plain bearing crank (not roller like the H-D) that was engineered for 10w40 is not getting the pressure it needs and bearings quickly wear, especially during cold starts.

Every application has specific needs from its oil and many applications are engineered with specific lubrication in mind.

I think we get away with using many things for firearms because it's just not that critical, as long as we use SOMETHING.

Again, I will make my one endorsement, that is for a very light grease style lube (for most parts on my AR and pistols) because it will stay where we want it, and one that has "micro polymer" bits in it, they act as tiny buffers whenever 2 pieces of metal slam together. TWB25 is my lube of choice.

Extrapolation is one thing, reducing a conversation to the rediculous is another. Water and piss are both liquids but one is much better to drink than the other. I have yet to see a manufacturers recommended gun oil for a specific application. There is no SAE rating on gun oil. I don't use automotive engine oil in my bikes with wet clutches because the additives make them too slippery. Gun manufacturers don't test fire they're new products for thousands of hours with different lubes on them to offer the best result, and the fact that the automotive industry has to in order to provide any longevity to their product should end this discussion right now. I and many others clean and lube my gun regularly, and he fact remains that guns require a much lower level of protection than an engine. Paying $8 an ounce for gun oil that has no proof of being specifically engineered to provide superior protection doesn't make any sense when there are alternatives.

Until someone comes on here with proof that a particular "alternative lube" caused actual damage or frequent malfunctions, it's safe to say (or extrapolate) that for some, in some conditions, certain lubes might work better than others in dusty or cold or wet conditions. I for one will always look for an alternative that works.

Oh and Rotella T diesel truck oil is a great alternative to high dollar motorcycle oil in V-Twins, doesn't have any additives to harm a wet clutch.

[FightFireJay]

I want to apologize for the rant, in fact I was going to remove it, but I suppose it's a little late for that.

I was trying to hard to get across my point that just because a product works well in one application we cannot assume that it will work equally as well in another application.

When it comes to most things, I am of the mind that "If it works for you, then it's right way for you to do it." I guess I get a little amped up about oil because many manufacturers have us believing in voodoo instead of science because they don't want to actually talk about what their product really is.

There is certainly something to be said for the price of a quart of oil versus a bottle of gun lube.

As far as scientific studies goes... I have to imagine that outside of the military researching CLP(and their recent admition that their M-16s and M-4s really do operate better in dry conditions with a heavy lube instead of a light lube) there probably hasn't been much at all.

[johnnybravo]

I lube my guns with the free $hit that falls to bottom of my goodie bags. After tens of thousands of rounds and using whatever lube that happens to be on the shelf, and within reach, I see no reason to change now.

Same here. My favorite and best performing gun lube brands are FREE, followed closely by REAL CHEAP.

The main lube/function issues I've seen at matches are the folks running their 1911/2011's too dry. Some just don't like the "dirty" well oiled look.

Remember, If you're not getting oil splattered onto your glasses, your gun (1911/2011) is too dry!

[paopao]

Has anyone tried motul 300v?

[Service Desk]

I lube my guns with the free $hit that falls to bottom of my goodie bags. After tens of thousands of rounds and using whatever lube that happens to be on the shelf, and within reach, I see no reason to change now.

Same here. My favorite and best performing gun lube brands are FREE, followed closely by REAL CHEAP.

The main lube/function issues I've seen at matches are the folks running their 1911/2011's too dry. Some just don't like the "dirty" well oiled look.

Remember, If you're not getting oil splattered onto your glasses, your gun (1911/2011) is too dry!

I like this post.... and agree.

[RePete]

I'll throw in my nickle to the fray.

I've used Breakfree CLP, Brownells Extreme Defense, RemOil, G96 (love the smell), Outers, Mil-Tec - grease and oil, plus a sundry of others. Haven't tried Mobile 1 - yet.

Extreme Defense is excellent, as is Mil-Tec, but I will continue to use Breakfree CLP because I have 3 gallons of the stuff.

As it was said, don't use grease in the winter.

IMHO any lube is OK and some are better than others. We all have our own opinions on the subject and for the most part, we are all right, but some maybe more right, like me!

I say use the one that you like and maybe try something else at some point.

Good luck in your quest. It will be a life long search that will never end.

[Steve RA]

I vote for Shell Rotella T - full synth - 15W/40. It also worked well in my Turbo Hayabusa, and no, the clutch didn't slip.

[CHA-LEE]

Motor oils are designed to maintain a specific viscosity and lubrication under specific operating conditions which exist inside an engine. The average passenger car motor oil is basically designed to function properly when heated to roughly 200 degrees, which is about the average oil temp when the engine is at its normal warmed up temp. The other major thing to consider is that motors are designed to function with a constant flow of oil to the bearings. The goal of this continually flowing oil is to create an oil barrier between the mating parts so they never actually touch.

Since our pistols do not have a recirculating oiling system, like an engine, its more important to pick a lubricant that stays were you put it. Heavy oils or Light Greases are what we need to maintain proper lubrication between cleans/relubrication. If you can find an oil or grease of the proper viscosity that also contains an Extreme Pressure Polymer additive that is an extra bonus when it comes to friction reduction.

I use Slide Glide Standard on most everything within the gun (Slide Rails, Barrel, Locking Lugs, Trigger Bar, etc). This stuff sticks where you put it and lasts many thousands of rounds before wearing off. It also makes cleaning the gun a lot easier because it acts as a barrier between the burnt powder and the internal components. The carbon sticks to the slide glide instead of the parts. For the small parts with pins (Sear Pin, Hammer Pin, Hammer Hooks, Trigger Pin, Extractor Pin, etc) I use a 50/50 mixture of Mobil 1 15w-50 and Prolong Engine Treatment Additive. The 15w-50 motor oil is thick enough to stick were I want it but thin enough to work on the small stuff. The Prolong engine treatment is an extreme pressure polymer additive which greatly reduces the friction between parts.

Using this combination of lubricants I can EASILY go 5000+ rounds between cleans and even then the gun is still well lubricated but very dirty with carbon buildup. I usually clean my guns on a 5000 round basis simply because I want to get in and inspect the parts, replace springs, or perform whatever preventive maintenance is needed to make me feel better about shooting the gun. One time I let this lubrication package go for 10,000 rounds and it was still lubricated pretty well but needed a new recoil spring so I cleaned it all up while replacing the spring.

Now I want to finish this off by stating that if you are a shooter who cleans their gun after every range session (less than 500 rounds of shooting) it probably makes ZERO difference in what kind of lubrication you use on the gun. You could probably use the extra mayonnaise dripping from your sandwich as lube and it would provide effective lubrication that would last the few hundred rounds of shooting you do between cleans. All of this stuff needs to be put into perspective. If you are cleaning your gun all the time and relubricating it does not matter what lubrication you are using because it will always have a fresh dose of lube.

[Sudden Death]

Mobile 1 on the rails and hammer/FP stop, and bbl to slide/bushing. SG light on the bbl lugs an slide stop. CLP to wipe it down before putting it back in the safe.

:huh: :huh: I wasn't in the military. Don't speak acronym.

I was in the military and I don't see one single military acronym in that post.

FP, bbl, SG, CLP, DUH, WTF, WWJD, :blink:

I will help you out, sometimes I half to look twice at stuff to pick up on the codes, texting has started a new language

FP/firing pin..SG/slide glide..bbl/ bull barrel.. CLP is the real name of the cleaner

Edited November 4, 2012 by Sudden Death

[Chills1994]

I think I have what is a good way to cut through some of the marketing BS around both motor oils and gun lubricants.

Has anybody ever compared the material data safety sheets (or material safety data sheets) between say Mobil 1 and CLP or Remoil?

I know a guy who swears by anti-seize for his AR/AK bolts/BCG's.