Time to start loading again

[lablover]

I have reloaded for bolt guns but never a gas gun. Just got a colt crp-18 ar15 for my new 3 gun hobby. Looks like loading is gonna have to happen to feed this baby. It's 223 Wilde so I assume I can just use 223 dies. Plan on redding dies in 223 but read that gas guns should use small base dies? Any advice on this? Gonna buy dies in the next few days and don't want to buy the wrong dies.

Also, do you guys think the redding competition dies are a must? Or just the standard redding 2 die set.

Also need to start loading for my Glock .40 cal. Anything I need to know with this one.

Thanks

Joe

Edited August 28, 2012 by lablover

[FightFireJay]

My Rock River Arms AR doesn't need a small base die set. I think very slightly better accuracy and longer brass life is capable with standard die. if you are going to drop your brass after a couple loadings and not worry, and if you are not shooting competitions for long range shooting I don't think it would make a difference either way.

Never heard of a "flock .40 cal", but I do load for my Glock .40 cal

A bulge buster from Lee or a GRX die from... whoever makes them, I can't remember, will help iron out the "glock bulge" do to guns with loose chambers. Most people will probably recommend quicker burning powders like titegroup or N320 or WST for competition. It's up to you, but a slightly slower powder will give you a little more room for error to make sure you don't go overpressure. I have several powders and have settled on Unique for 180 gr moly coated lead rounds from Bear Creek out of my OEM Glock barrel. Every other powder (except TrailBoss) gave me leading. So, middle of the pack Unique it is! Also, it's decently clean at higher pressure of a .40 (when compared to a .38 sp)

Out of my M&P Pro, with it's tighter chamber, I am experimenting with WST for those 180 gr lead rounds. Noticeably less recoil, but it's not going to be a game changer.

[lablover]

Darn auto correct on these MacBooks

Thanks for the .40 tip

My Rock River Arms AR doesn't need a small base die set. I think very slightly better accuracy and longer brass life is capable with standard die. if you are going to drop your brass after a couple loadings and not worry, and if you are not shooting competitions for long range shooting I don't think it would make a difference either way.

Never heard of a "flock .40 cal", but I do load for my Glock .40 cal

A bulge buster from Lee or a GRX die from... whoever makes them, I can't remember, will help iron out the "glock bulge" do to guns with loose chambers. Most people will probably recommend quicker burning powders like titegroup or N320 or WST for competition. It's up to you, but a slightly slower powder will give you a little more room for error to make sure you don't go overpressure. I have several powders and have settled on Unique for 180 gr moly coated lead rounds from Bear Creek out of my OEM Glock barrel. Every other powder (except TrailBoss) gave me leading. So, middle of the pack Unique it is! Also, it's decently clean at higher pressure of a .40 (when compared to a .38 sp)

Out of my M&P Pro, with it's tighter chamber, I am experimenting with WST for those 180 gr lead rounds. Noticeably less recoil, but it's not going to be a game changer.

[mertbl]

Another 40 tip, don't shoot lead bullets in the factory glock barrel.

[lablover]

Another 40 tip, don't shoot lead bullets in the factory glock barrel.

Thanks for the tip. I'm trying to find a good bullet to start with