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S&W 686 light strikes / reduced spring


Hoodfu

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Hi guys, I recently decided to try my hand at revolver competition shooting with a S&W 686 (357 magnum). To lighten up the stock 12 pound trigger pull, I installed a Wolff Spring pack consisting of a type-2 reduced power mainspring and a 15 pound reduced power rebound spring. This gave me a wonderful 6 to 7 pound pull but unfortunately I'm getting light strikes that result in about 25% of the rounds not igniting. I'm pretty set on using CCI Blazer aluminum 357 magnum ammo as it gives off a wonderful flash but barely makes minimum power factor from the 2.5" barrel. Using other factory ammo kind of defeats the purpose of shooting revolver for me (flash and bang is king), so what are my options here? Would the Apex XP Ignition kit with the longer firing pin take care of the light strikes or do I need to move to a different main spring/rebound spring with a bit more tension? Thanks for any assistance here.

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Are you opposed to a bobbed hammer?

I put the Apex bobbed hammer and extended FP in my 625 and worked the DA trigger to 6 pounds...it lights everything I put in it. I honestly think I could drop another pound but I like it pretty good right where it is!

MME_4111.jpg

MME_4115.jpg

Edited by MTSCMike
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That's a great looking piece you have there. I prefer to have a regular hammer because I do enjoy enjoy single action shooting at times. Can I assume that bobbing the hammer reduced its weight and lets it fly faster? Without that, do you think the extended firing pin alone would be enough in my situation?

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That's a great looking piece you have there. I prefer to have a regular hammer because I do enjoy enjoy single action shooting at times. Can I assume that bobbing the hammer reduced its weight and lets it fly faster? Without that, do you think the extended firing pin alone would be enough in my situation?

Correct assumption. The lighter hammer travels faster and it apparently has more to do with the speed of the impact that lights a primer rather than the hammer mass. The old E = MC squared...and I thought school was a waste :blink:

The extended pin might be enough all by its lonesome. Only costs a few bucks to find out.

Edited by MTSCMike
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If you really want to have fun with a revolver just buy federal (american eagle) ammo its easy find and cheap. The primers are softer and ignite with lighter triggers. Get rid of the 15 rebound and buy an 11 lbs wolff rebound spring and replace the stock firing pin with an apex competition firing pin. These parts are cheap and will make a huge difference in a trigger pull. If you do this you'll get a 6 lbs trigger that is 100% reliable even with a stock hammer. If you really want a super light trigger about 5 lbs you'll need to reload and use federal 100 primers seated deep with an apex hammer.

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Anyway control if your revolver has some endshake and remove it.

Trigger rebound spring 11 or 12 Lb.

Install an extended fring pin..and for me is also important the reduced power of the small firing pin return spring..the original one it's hard and absorb a consistent power of the hammer strike.

I use a original type mainspring (not wolff reduced power) with little bent for tune-up or the Wilson replacement mainspring.

And use reloaded ammo with Federal primers only, if you want to have the lighter trigger weight.

Hello from Italy

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Correct assumption. The lighter hammer travels faster and it apparently has more to do with the speed of the impact that lights a primer rather than the hammer mass. The old E = MC squared...and I thought school was a waste :blink:

E= 1/2 m V V in the regular world, this explain the low mass high speed hammer trend.

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Thanks for the insight guys. I'll do the apex extended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring and see what happens. I'm hesitant to do the bobbed hammer because it mentions fitting/filing to get a good fit which I don't think I'm competent enough for.

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Thanks for the insight guys. I'll do the apex extended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring and see what happens. I'm hesitant to do the bobbed hammer because it mentions fitting/filing to get a good fit which I don't think I'm competent enough for.

Assuming your 686 has the frame mounted FP and a MIM hammer...you can get a second MIM hammer for pretty cheap, whack on it, drop it in and go. And you still have the original to go back in if you decide you don't like the whacked one.

I'm doing one myself even though I bought the APEX and had it fitted...just in case I ever want to switch.

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What's the difference from the Apex XP firing pin and the Apex Competition firing pin ?

Thanks

The XP is very slightly longer and has a spherical rounded tip like a factory pin...the competition model is very slightly shorter (but still longer than a standard pin) and has a conical tip which is supposed to help with harder primers. The only complaint I've heard with the conical tip is the occasional pierced primer. I use the XP.

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,493"to ,494" are factory SaW pins I bought from Midway and using with slight modifications

FP spring from ,012" wire 6taps .18" long

trigger reb. spring made from J frame Wolf mainspring (.925"long ,193"OD ,15"ID)

DA pull approx 3,6 pound

post-16286-0-98626600-1344343601_thumb.j

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a competition Apex firing pin in my S&W 610, which made a significant improvement in failure to fire. Once I started to use only Federal factory ammo in IPSC/USPAS competition the reliability increased again. I practice with reloads. Now whenever I get a dud I can trace the fault directly to a warped moonclip.

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