Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

.38sp noob question


Velvett

Recommended Posts

Iv'e loaded shotgun for years, and 9mm. I want to expand into .38 sp. My question is about the roll crimp. is that something the die does because its for .38sp, or is it a setting i need to learn about? I do understand it needs to be lined up with the cannelure, but i cant seem to find out how it happens in the die.

Edited by Velvett
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most crimp dies for .38sp and .357mag will be roll crimps. There are some out there that are taper crimp (like your 9mm dies) and there is the Redding die ("Profile" I think it is called) that is a hybrid of the two.

I just started loading .38sp as well, so someone will correct me if I am wrong (I hope). Generally the full power loads will be in most need of a good roll crimp to keep the bullet from backing out under recoil (unlike a semi-auto where recoil pushes the bullet deeper.) I have also heard that slower burning powders will benefit from a good roll crimp to help ensure complete/consistent ignition.

Let us know how it goes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well the 2 manuals i have say to roll crimp, and how to line it up, and explain what it is, and why. there is information about not making it to heavy due to pressure issues and more. The question I was putting forth is about the die it self. I have not any experience with that type of crimp. I was trying to gather information from people with experience so i may further educate myself. More information on reloading is better than less.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iv'e loaded shotgun for years, and 9mm. I want to expand into .38 sp. My question is about the roll crimp. is that something the die does because its for .38sp, or is it a setting i need to learn about? I do understand it needs to be lined up with the cannelure, but i cant seem to find out how it happens in the die.

I use a seperate crimp die in the fourth station of my LCT.

Screw down the die till it just touches the shell holder back off a hair.

then on a empty case turn down the crimping screw till it just touches

the case mouth, back out the case and turn down the crimping screw a quarter

turn for a light roll crimp, half turn for a heavy roll crimp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

thx tac, as with most things, stay as light as possible?

Well not necessarily,I tend to let the bullet design as well as the load/powder determine the amount of crimp I apply. My cast bullet of which I cast several have a variety of crimp groove depths,angles and widths. Excessive crimp applied in the wrong place or to the bullets style can deform the bullet,bulge the case and make for hard loading into the chamber,to light of a crimp may allow the bullet in some instances to move in the case under recoil and jam the cylinder or cause the powder to not burn completely.

Basically it just going to be trial and error with your bullet of choice till you get the feel of things,at which point you can pretty much pick up any bullet and have a pretty good idea just how much crimp you going to need to apply to that bullet to get good results.

Edited by res45
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...