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Do I need a $2500 Rifle?


latech15

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I built a 3 gun rifle back at the first of the year and I am really happy with it. It shoots 3/8 groups and is all that I wanted it to be. I did catch the bug and really have an itch to build another rifle. The first one was for open, this one will be for tac optics. The first one was built using Palmetto State Armory upper and lower, nordic/Wilson 18" barrel, rock river two stage trigger, ace stock and a troy rifle length hand guard. The one that I have spec'ed out has the following parts:

Loki Billet upper and lower

Loki Carbon handguard

Nordic Comp

Gieselle Super 3 gun trigger

Magpul UBR stock

Loki 18" Barrel

Miad Grip

JP LMOS and Silent Buffer system

My question is this, If I spend another K on this rifle than I did on the last one, am I really going to notice a difference? Is is worth it to go with the high end stuff when I couldn't be happier with the one that I have?

It should also be noted that I haven't even shot a single 3 gun match tother than a small 20 man deal at our local club. That hasn't stopped me from buying a completely tricked out Firebird Akdal shotty though.

Help me spend my money!

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You said you have the itch, and if you can afford it, I would do the build. Or you can put that money towards match fees and shoot some 3G next season 8-)

Good luck on your decision, JP

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No, you do not need to spend $2.5K. If you shop wisely, you can buld them for much less than that, including the top tier components. However, it sounds like what you currently have is more than adequate. Now, if you simply want to build one for another division, have at it!

Mick

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I built a 3 gun rifle back at the first of the year and I am really happy with it. It shoots 3/8 groups and is all that I wanted it to be. I did catch the bug and really have an itch to build another rifle. The first one was for open, this one will be for tac optics. The first one was built using Palmetto State Armory upper and lower, nordic/Wilson 18" barrel, rock river two stage trigger, ace stock and a troy rifle length hand guard. The one that I have spec'ed out has the following parts:

Loki Billet upper and lower

Loki Carbon handguard

Nordic Comp

Gieselle Super 3 gun trigger

Magpul UBR stock

Loki 18" Barrel

Miad Grip

JP LMOS and Silent Buffer system

My question is this, If I spend another K on this rifle than I did on the last one, am I really going to notice a difference? Is is worth it to go with the high end stuff when I couldn't be happier with the one that I have?

It should also be noted that I haven't even shot a single 3 gun match tother than a small 20 man deal at our local club. That hasn't stopped me from buying a completely tricked out Firebird Akdal shotty though.

Help me spend my money!

Looks like a good build to me. I would use a SJC titan comp instead however. I personally would skip on the JP low mass system but thats a matter of preferance.

Pat

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I like building rifles but for that kinda money I would just get a JP-15 or PSC-11 with the UBR, MIAD, Silent Buffer, Syrac gas block and order a Titan comp. The JP comp IMHO is better then the Nordic and like Alaskapopo I feel the Titan is even better. Although I do wanna try the Seekins comp next. I also like the JP trigger better then the Geissele Super 3G(I have both). The only things you are gonna give up are Billet and Carbon Fiber. Billet weighs more and Carbon Fiber heats up faster in my experience. The JP barrel nut and handguard are so rigid they almost provide an unfair advantage against other handguard systems and the JP built rifles I have used feel more complete and solid during fire. You can always add a Carbon Arms CF tube later if you must have CFiber. JP resale value and customer service will be much better also.

.....and NO, you don't need a $2500 rifle, your first one sounds perfect, but if you want one, you should get one. Or save a little longer and get a .308 JP LRP-07 for something different. :devil:

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Perhaps I'm ill informed but I don't see the need for a billet lower or upper. They are nice, fancy but IMO won't do anything that a Vltor upper and Palmetto lower won't do. Leaving off the billet could save you quite a bit.

Tar

.

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I just did my spreadsheet based upon what I consider to be the best possible parts. This is more than likely something that I would do over a period of a year or more. Buying one or two parts at a time. The price, in that purchasing scenario, is pretty irrelevant.

I am happy with my barrel, so I can see no real difference in that component, the carbon tube would theoretically be a weight advantage. Billet is cooler, not a real advantage. Same thing with the buttstock. The trigger is likely to be the only place where there will be a noticeable difference. Maybe in the JP lmos and silent buffer????

Is there enough difference in those parts to justify spending ANY more money on them?

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Billet is purely for grins, and weight gain, but no improvment in performance. I'm kind of partial to the Carbon Arms Carbon Fiber Handguard. The Corvette comp is decent, but there are trade-offs and until you shoot them on your gun with your load, you won't know. Personally, I do not like the Gieselle triggers...drop in CMC, Jard or AR-Gold is what I prefer. The UBR is a heavy stock, the Magpul ACS is light and gives a good cheekweld. The ACE stocks are another lightweight option. The 18" Loki...if you want, but you already have one of the best available on your current gun. Yes on JP LMOS carrier. If you are going adjustable gas (which I do not like on a competition gun), get a Syrac block. Run a carbine buffer and spring tuned and the Silent buffer is not needed.

I like the Silent buffer, but, if the gun is not overgassed and only a .223, then there really is no improvment in performance. With .300 BO, 6.5s and 450BMs, etc. then I can feel the difference, but not with the .223 round in a tuned rifle.

IMHO, the trigger, tunable comp and JP LMBC are the three biggest imrpovements one can make to a "stock" AR-15 (provided it shoots 1.5 MOA or so). The rest for the most part is window dressing. As I said in another thread, until you are in the top 30 or so at majors, most of the improvments won't make any difference. Psychologically, if some of those parts instill more confidence, then they might be worth it for you.

Edited by MarkCO
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Or buy a JP for $100 and bob a mil rounded hammer and call it good!

Mick

Might want to look at the Timney singlestage 3 lb

drop in

under 200 bucks

Zero creep, clean break, short and disrinct reset

It is as nice as my Wilson Combat that ran 100 more

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