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Switched to Zero's


.40AET

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I have been using MG 180g FMJ in .40 for 3 years. I read all of the info on Zero vs. MG and decided to switch. I wanted to get to a jacketed base to get a little more velocity out of the bullet and the price is better on the Zero JHP vs. the FMJ in MG. I have been loading an AOL of 1.200" with the MG and everything has been great. When I loaded up 20 Zero's for the chrono, the bullets would not pass the drop check. The shoulder of the bullet where it transitions to the point is sharper and higher thatn the MG's. If I seat the bullet down to 1.17" then it passes the drop check. Is anyone else having problems loading Zero's to 1.200" oal???

Thanks

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I load my Zero 180 JHP's to 1.170. The reason why I settled on this OAL was because I could not eject a live round out of the gun until I got down to 1.180. I figured that I would drop the OAL another 10 to leave a little more room for live round ejection. My buddy's Bar-Sto barrel is the same way.

40 AET, What is the drop test?

Doug

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Sorry- the drop check is a Dillon case gauge. I took the barrel out to double check the gauge. The 1.200 Zero's go into the barrel with no problem. If the rounds can't pass the case gauge, then I have no easy way of checking match ammo. Thanks for the input.

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No problems with my 200 gr zeros. I use a dillon cas gauge. I load to 1.200OAL.

Well, then WTF is wrong with mine????? Maybe I'll try another case gauge and see what that brings. I like the price, if everything else works, then I would like to switch for good. The 200's sound even better.

Thanks guys.

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Guest Larry Cazes

I just use the barrel from my gun! There will always be some slight variation between a gauge and the barrel.....Why pay for a seperate gauge and take a chance. KISS :D

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Why pay for a seperate gauge and take a chance.

If your gauge is at spec and your chamber is a tick bigger, and it's a go in the gauge, it'll definitely go in the gun.

Having your gunsmith ream a gauge is probably the best solution. After all. You start taking a gun apart to drop check your ammo, the next thing you know, you're cleaning it and we can't have that! :o

Rich

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If your gauge is at spec and your chamber is a tick bigger, and it's a go in the gauge, it'll definitely go in the gun.

I don't want to lose that extra margin of safety. I would rather spend $20 and buy 2 case gauges to find one that works. Anyway, I went to the range today and loaded up a magazine full of the Zero's. Every other round failed to feed. :angry: Looks like I may look into the MG 180 CMJ's.

Thanks again for all of the feedback. This site rocks!

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40AET, I take it that this started when you changed bullets. Have you rechecked your crimp? Measure it, then try to case guage a few rds backwards, this can tell you a lot about which end of the rd has a problem. JHPs should not be a problem, my 40s run them all, JHP, FMJ, TCs, LSWC & FPs. I use Zeros and MGs both and have no problems. Revisit your loading set up, something has changed. If all else fails drop your OAL back to 1.180 os so and try that. Just as insurance check your extractor and breachface and mag springs.

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I started shooting Star FMJ 180, switched to Star CEB to get a soild base, last time we bought it was Zero 180 JHP. I have had no problems cycling any ofe these all oaded to 1.175 thru my EGW built Para. I use a full length sizing die, and a factroy taper crimp as opposed to the Dillon dies.

What I have found is that the last 10,000 Zeros have a 1 grain variance in bullet weight within the same box! Forget lot to lot, we are talking the same box! Star had no such deviation. Length also varies, but not as widely. I did need to reset my seating die for the Zero, it is a slightly different shape.

As to chamber checking, I tempt the reloading gods here, but using the full length sizing die and the Factory taper crimp, I have not failed a chamber check in so long that I have stopped. I do check each round for cracks, bulges, dents and high primers as i mark them (Thank you Nolan for the Brass Master)

YMMV

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