dcmdon Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 (edited) I've got a little time on a Pro 1000 and my experience is that it can be jammed up much more easily than a Dillon. The dillon doesn't really jam. You just pull the handle and it won't go down, so you raise the handle, remove the offending brass and you are back in business. You also tend not to break parts if this happens on a Dillon. I've generally done a bad job of inspecting my 9mm and .45 ACP brass. So I do have some brass related malfunctions on my press. But with the Dillon, you just pull the bad brass out and keep working the handle. I generally don't bother trying to figure out what is wrong with the brass and just toss it into the recycling bin. I recently did an experiment, I dumped a couple hundred pieces of 9mm brass onto a white towel and then visually inspected them. I pulled a few pieces with dinged up throats out of the mix as well as a couple of berdan primed steel cases and some .380. I then put them in the reloader and ran through all of them without a single stoppage. Hmm. Maybe there is something to this. Finally, I've recently been playing around with some very light .45 loads and have some reliability issues as far as chambering. All of the rounds in question dropped into the chamber of the actual Kart bbl in the gun. I'm using a 9# recoil spring rather than a 16 lb in my 1911, so these are very light loads. I waiting on a recently purchased Lee FC die to see if that helps. I purchased one for 9mm along with another head for my Lee turret. I'm thinking I'll manually run any rounds I'm going to use in a match through the FCD. The dies in the dillon are also Dillon dies with the standard .45 taper crimp. Edited July 26, 2012 by dcmdon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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