kdiver58 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I have a brand new S&W 617 10 shot that is jamming once I start shooting it. I have checked on the web and see this is a common problem with some of the 617's . How are you fixing the problem. It's obviously a clearance issue that starts once the rims have been struck by the firing pin. I have removed the burrs and stoned down the .004 high area around the firing pin. I also noticed the cylinders were chamfered but the extractor was not so I added a .010 radius to the extractor. Before I head to the range is there anything else you would do? I am a tool and die maker with a small shop I can do almost anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rln Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) I ran across a J frame S&W in 22 that would do that. The clearances were so tight that if any trash from the fired rounds got under the ejector star it would bind up. Keeping it free of excess lube under the star worked well on that revolver. Edited July 5, 2012 by rln Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I've got a 10 shot 17 and it is pretty tight. It has to be really clean on the chamber face (counter bores) and under the star. .22 ammo being dirty as it is doesn't help one bit. I also need to polish my chambers because the rounds have to be pushed into the chambers. Makes using the DS10 speedloaders pretty frustrating when you stick it and chuck it and then the dang cylinder won't close! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdiver58 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Trouble is this happened with a brand new gun. Fully cleaned and with the first cylinder of ammo. It's looking more and more like I am going to have to counter-bore the heads a little deeper or move the cylinder forward .003 to .005. I want to shoot this in steel challenge I need to get this fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwx40x40 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 If it's brand new , why not just send it back to S&W? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Is the ejector rod tight? Might sound silly, but that is a common cause of binding. Is it binding on case heads or at the barrel end? How much end shake does it have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Is the ejector rod tight? Might sound silly, but that is a common cause of binding. Yes Is it binding on case heads or at the barrel end? Yes How much end shake does it have? Not enough to worry about In my case see above. Mine IS functional, but man it sure is sensitive to being just the slightest bit dirty. kdiver, these are more fun than a barrel of monkeys in steel challenge. I'd give S&W a call and see what they say, they are good about making things right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdiver58 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) Mine is binding on the case heads once they have been struck by the firing pin. Before that I can cycle the fully loaded cylinder around over and over without any binding. I should send it back to S&W .. but I'd rather fix it myself and start shooting the thing. I have 3 friends with 10 shot 617's and they all run fine. Their's are all older models. Mine's the only dash 6. I need to get one of their's and mic it up. BTW yes it is a very tight gun with almost no end shake. Edited July 6, 2012 by kdiver58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdiver58 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) Mine is binding on the case heads once they have been struck by the firing pin. Before that I can cycle the fully loaded cylinder around over and over without any binding. I should send it back to S&W .. but I'd rather fix it myself and start shooting the thing. I have 3 friends with 10 shot 617's and they all run fine. Their's are all older models. Mine's the only dash 6. I need to get one of their's and mic it up. BTW yes it is a very tight gun with almost no end shake. S&W says to send it back to them and I should get it back in a couple of weeks. I'm waiting on their RMA. $700 22LR revolver should not have these types of systemic problems. Checking the web I see it is fairly widespread. Edited July 6, 2012 by kdiver58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Mine is binding on the case heads once they have been struck by the firing pin. Before that I can cycle the fully loaded cylinder around over and over without any binding. I should send it back to S&W .. but I'd rather fix it myself and start shooting the thing. I have 3 friends with 10 shot 617's and they all run fine. Their's are all older models. Mine's the only dash 6. I need to get one of their's and mic it up. BTW yes it is a very tight gun with almost no end shake. Sounds like taking a little off the crane should get it running. Probably just Need to square the end of the crane and align the ejector rod. Had that very same problem with a basket case k frame that is now my favorite revo because I spent so much time learning how to make it run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdiver58 Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 I chamfered the extractor, removed the bump around the firing pin hole, removed the burrs, stoned and polished the area of the frame behind the cylinder and took .001 off the the crane and it runs fine now. I ran 250 rounds through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 K That's great news. Really rewarding to do our own maintenance. - john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Also if you are having a hard time getting rounds in or out of the cylinder that is clean I can tell you the chambers are way too tight. My 617 was horrible to load and unload when I first got it. I ended up sending the cylinder out and having all the chambers reamed to proper specs. Man, what a difference that made and the DS-10s work even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake617 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 does anyone find it helpful to chamfer the chambers even when there is no specific complaint? I just got a used 617...turns out it has irregular FTF....someone has shortened the strain screw considerably. It's at my smith's right now for further inspection. In the 200 rounds I put through it first, 1-4 failure to fire chambers emerged. I marked those & now the smith is taking a look. Anticipate getting the DS10s soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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