New IDPA shooter, need help with Glock springs!

[Javaman]

Hi. I'm going to start shooting IDPA, and I need someone to clear up all my questions regarding recoil spring weights on the Glocks. I have g34, g17, and g19 pistols (only going to use the 1st two to compete). Most people seem to recommend using lighter than factory spring weights, but I have some concerns. I don't reload, so I'll probably be using Blazer or something like that. My biggest concern is the fact that the striker spring will tend to pull the slide out of battery if the recoil spring is too light, so should I install the reduced power striker spring if I lower the recoil spring rate? Also, will I have problems with light strikes if I do this on factory ammo? Finally, what recoil spring weight should I go with if using factory standard power ammo? Thanks, Paul.

P.S.- Forgot to ask this: I have heard that Glocks were designed with NATO ammo in mind, which is more powerful than standard US ammo, and sprung accordingly. Are all the Glock 9's oversprung unless using +p or +p+ ammo anyway? Thanks again.

Edited June 30, 2012 by Javaman

[andrewcolglazier]

If you are planning to shoot factory ammo, I see no reason why you can't leave all springs stock.

Andy

[Javaman]

Well, seems that everything I read indicates that recoil is more easily managed and recovery is quicker with lighter springs. Like I said, I'm new to this, need recommendations/help.

[Jim Watson]

Suggest you stick to stock springs for your first season.

You will have a lot more to worry about than saving a few femtoseconds of cycle time by spring engineering.

[Javaman]

Ok, that seems sensible, but as I've been shooting (about 300 rounds in g34 so far) I've noticed the muzzle really seems to want to flip up high during recoil; recoil is mild enough, but I have watched some video of people shooting these pistols and the muzzle barely seems to move when they shoot (stock, no comp). I believe I have a good grip, very high, never have limp-wrist jams or anything, but lots of muzzle jump. I was thinking I might help this by going with lighter recoil springs, especially if the Glock factory spring is a bit stiff for non +p type loads anyway. Another thing I noticed, and the reason I was considering lighter springs, is that I seem to shoot much more accurately and quicker when I practice with my speer gold dot +p carry loads in the g17; in fact, they group quite a bit better than the Blazers or Speer Lawman practice ammo I've been using. Thanks, Paul.

[Sarge]

I have watched some video of people shooting these pistols and the muzzle barely seems to move when they shoot (stock, no comp).

That's more technique than spring weight that minimizes muzzle flip. You will see some moderate decrease with a lighter spring but you will notice a much bigger decrease after shooting matches for a year. Actually, recoil springs don't do much for barrel flip. What they really do is alter slide speed and the force with which the slide returns to battery which causes more muzzle DIP. You can probably run a 13 lb spring in your 34 with no problem. I did. But the trigger will be much better with a lighter striker spring but then you risk reliability unless you reload with soft primers or go to a longer striker. As you can see it rapidly spirals out of control when you start messing with springs.

I'd leave it alone for at least the time being.

[Javaman]

I have watched some video of people shooting these pistols and the muzzle barely seems to move when they shoot (stock, no comp).

That's more technique than spring weight that minimizes muzzle flip. You will see some moderate decrease with a lighter spring but you will notice a much bigger decrease after shooting matches for a year. Actually, recoil springs don't do much for barrel flip. What they really do is alter slide speed and the force with which the slide returns to battery which causes more muzzle DIP. You can probably run a 13 lb spring in your 34 with no problem. I did. But the trigger will be much better with a lighter striker spring but then you risk reliability unless you reload with soft primers or go to a longer striker. As you can see it rapidly spirals out of control when you start messing with springs.

I'd leave it alone for at least the time being.

Yeah, that's kind of the impression I get from studying up on this stuff: you can improve this but something else becomes a problem, etc., etc. I guess I just need to get something done with the triggers and leave it at that. Even with the minus connector the trigger sucks pretty bad.

[earthshine402]

The big muzzle flip could also have been attributed to shooting factory 115 gr loads - lighter bullet loads require more powder and often have more muzzle flip. I currently prefer 147 gr hand loads at about 132 power factor.

I don't think changing your recoil spring is necessary if you will only shoot factory loads.

[Not-So-Mad Matt]

Hi. I'm going to start shooting IDPA, and I need someone to clear up all my questions regarding recoil spring weights on the Glocks.

If you're new to shooting IDPA, why are you modifying your gun?

[mike l m]

You should shoot the gun stock for a year. Learn to shoot it. Either the 34 or the 17. Do not change springs, save your money and buy a reloader,powder,bullets and primers.

Mike

[ck1]

IMO, after trying all the lightened strikers available and all the other ways to go down this road with factory ammo, with Glocks, unless you can load your own ammo, don't even bother with changing out any springs, they're bot to bad the way the are, leave them alone and concentrate on shooting your best. Shooting factory loaded ammo there is very little upside and lots of downside to going to marginally softer springs. There is already thread, after thread, after thread out there on guys experiencing light-strikes due to unnecessarily swapping springs, no need to add to the fray...

Guys who roll their own can use and stick to Federal primers and then get away with reduced power striker springs, then of course go to softer recoil springs.

[HoMiE]

13# or 14# recoil spring all day with factory WWB, UMC or Blazer 115gr fmj ammo. Leave striker spring alone, maybey put 3.5# connector in your G17 with .25 polish job and call it good.

Edited July 19, 2012 by HoMiE

[ck1]

13# or 14# recoil spring all day with factory WWB, UMC or Blazer 115gr fmj ammo. Leave striker spring alone, maybey put 3.5# connector in your G17 with .25 polish job and call it good.

I generally agree that a 13lb or 14lb recoil spring (leaving the striker-spring stock) will be fine with factory stuff and shoot a little flatter and feel a bit better... but, that said, when the softer recoil springs start to wear and go south, the pistol will start to pull the breech-face (and striker) further away from the primers while pulling the trigger leading to light-strikes or worse... Now, I'm not suggesting kaboom paranoia, it just seems like those light-strike issues tend to show up at super-awesome times, like half-way through a match . I just don't think fudging the margin of reliability in a Glock is worth the slight upside in most instances since most of the reason I like Glocks has to do with their reliability. IMHO there are other choices that are more forgiving to shoot well, and that have better triggers that I'd rather run if I was deciding to willfully compromise reliability is all.

[Craig N]

13# or 14# recoil spring all day with factory WWB, UMC or Blazer 115gr fmj ammo. Leave striker spring alone, maybey put 3.5# connector in your G17 with .25 polish job and call it good.

Or just shoot the piss out of it.