Akkid17 Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Anyone shoot different divisions (I.e. different holster set ups), I'm wondering if changing between different holsters, guns and belt set ups would hinder draw performance or do the fundamentals take over when relying on the subconscious/muscle memory draw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikethor Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Well have been doing some dry fire practice and need to do alot more however have started setting my pocket pro 2 par time at .70 with ipsc target at seven yards and are now getting the the 1911 out and aimed at the A zone consistently at .70. (this is not pressing the trigger and releasing the safety though) Happy with this however need to do more live fire work with this as my last one was at 1.27 into the A zone with a .45 hole right in the middle. I think I am waiting to see more than I actually need to when doing the live fire practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtychemist Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Anyone shoot different divisions (I.e. different holster set ups), I'm wondering if changing between different holsters, guns and belt set ups would hinder draw performance or do the fundamentals take over when relying on the subconscious/muscle memory draw? I have a blackhawk Serpa holster. At my last match the RO thought I disabled the lock because I was smooth and fast with it. I showed him the lock worked and I just practice. I was in a hotel the whole week before the match and did an hour a day but its amazing what 15-30 minutes can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavage81 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I made this revelation a few months ago and picked up a good deal of time, now in recent weeks I've been working on my posture (less tactical turtle, more vertical stance like Ben) and that's got me from 1.05's down to .90's. As I was talking about this new improvement with a shooting buddy he says "hey you should focus on getting your weak hand over", apparently another guy we shoot with made the revelation also, had shared it with him, and he also thought it worked. Seems like this is pretty universal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daves_not_here Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 This clarified a lot of concepts for me. DNH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckie45 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 My fist thought on this post was "trick of the day." I've been focusing on my week hand for the last few weeks, cause I've been incontestably with my weak hand grip. I'd been peeked out at the same draw time (.9) for a year. Tonight after doing .9 I set it to .8 and let go of any concious thought (just trying to observe the present and let my sub conscious do it all. I went on to succeed at all attempts at .8 and 50% at .7. Feels good to finally see some improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanD1 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Thanks, will try this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hello Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Part of the definition of “focus” is something can be clearly apprehended, to apprehend is to constrain. “Focus” on the things you want to slow down and let the rest just come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerdug Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 I agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerdug Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 This clarified a lot of concepts for me. DNH Great Video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Single Stack Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Yes it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsteimel Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Great tip, thanks! Another tip i try to incorporate is to have each hand in the shape that will be needed to grab then gun... for example, your strong hand may have your index finger a little straighter, and thumb out. Whereas your support hand may have all 4 fingers together and straight with the thumb extended. This way both hands are ready to do their part when they get to the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnote Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Tag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 I think I'm going to try this today. I use 3 yards and a 6" circle as my metric. I've been in the 1.8s range, and I'm really hoping to be able to get down below 1.5s. Maybe I'll incorporate this tip into my training and see if it helps me Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmtyndall Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I was able to hit consistent 1.5-1.6s draws. Plenty of room to improve, but I will say that taking my focus off of "hitting my cues" certainly made an improvement Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 it's interesting. I recently had an improvement with my production gun getting down to 0.85s for a 7 yard draw. what's important to me when practicing fast draws is not just do the draw but at least do a second shot on target or even shoot another target. it's a lot easier to just rip out one crazy shot with messed up grip etc and get that great draw time. so by adding extra shooting it ensures you're getting a 'real' draw time (stole this idea from nimitz). What I teach new shooters to my club is to practice as follows. draw is in 3 big steps (within each are smaller steps but for simplicity I break it into 3). 1, strong hand comes down onto the gun (we are not doing scoop draws at this stage, regardless of start position bring hand above the grip and come down onto it), weak hand pats your tummy 2. clap your hands 3. punch out this is for dry practice with no gun. and repeat in front of a mirror to observe where your hands are. slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... slap your tummy, clap your hands, punch it out.... feel silly but gets the gross motions ingrained. Then do it with the gun. obviously at this point you're not clapping your hands, they are meeting at the gun. you ideally want to pivot around your elbow as you get the gun up out of the holster so it comes up nice and high but it's not super critical to get it straight up to the face height. chest high is about right, as you punch out it'll lift that last little part. what you don't want is just bringing it up hip high then swinging it up. this gives slow draw and a wobbly effort to steady the sights. anyway, got my draw and 2 shots down to 0.95s which I'm happy with as previously I was you're average 1 to 1.2 sec first shot. my big breakthrough was realising how much faster I can move the gun between when it clears the holster to getting it punched out. sounds simple I know. just move it faster. but it was simply a fact that I'd settled into a comfortable pace when I first started and never re-evaluated how fast I could comfortably move the gun. so just being more aggressive with that part of the movement got me about 0.30 of a second. the reason I'm making this long post in this thread is I did notice one thing watching videos of my draw on stages (if you don't do this you should at least occasionally have someone record 3rd person view of your stages and then watch it, put it through shot coach etc). I noticed my weak hand is a little lazy. it starts moving noticeably later than the strong hand, and then (since it has nothing in it) moves faster and catches up at the 'clap your hands' part of the draw. I think as I've gotten more aggressive moving the gun my left hand has been stuck behind at the old draw speed and is now out of sync. so I need to go back to the mirror and do some more "slap your tummy, clap your hands....etc". hopefully speeding up the weak hand might improve things further or at least get the current draw more consistent and nailed down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 My dry fire draw-and-index-target is about 0.4s faster than my live fire start-signal-to-first-shot in the A zone. I can get a shot off almost as fast as the dry fire draw, but getting the first shot in the A zone is another thing. If that first shot is not in the A zone, I don't consider the time valid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jroback Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 My dry fire draw-and-index-target is about 0.4s faster than my live fire start-signal-to-first-shot in the A zone. I can get a shot off almost as fast as the dry fire draw, but getting the first shot in the A zone is another thing. If that first shot is not in the A zone, I don't consider the time valid. Sounds about like me. I'm currently working on how to cut that difference down. Any ideas are definitely appreciated. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I'm with you GunBugbit. First shot must be an A zone hit on paper but on steel, anywhere counts and the draw can be much faster. I've got my rig set up on my wheel chair and have been real slow until being reminded on this thread how to draw faster. I don't know my times but I'm going to keep track at the next match to see how much I've improved. Thanks for the tips guys. I'm sure it will make a big difference for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my00wrx1 Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 My dry fire draw-and-index-target is about 0.4s faster than my live fire start-signal-to-first-shot in the A zone. I can get a shot off almost as fast as the dry fire draw, but getting the first shot in the A zone is another thing. If that first shot is not in the A zone, I don't consider the time valid. Brian's book has some great exercises on pages 170-171 to help with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOCOHM Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 How do you use a time on dry fire? The timer I have only works with gun fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my00wrx1 Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Set a par time - the first beep is the start time and the second is the finish time. I use a dry fire timer app for my phone. It has the bonus of being able to program and save my par time for each of the drills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunBugBit Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) My dry fire draw-and-index-target is about 0.4s faster than my live fire start-signal-to-first-shot in the A zone. I can get a shot off almost as fast as the dry fire draw, but getting the first shot in the A zone is another thing. If that first shot is not in the A zone, I don't consider the time valid. Brian's book has some great exercises on pages 170-171 to help with this. I've been doing exercises described in Enos/Anderson/Stoeger resources for a while. My performance in matches can be directly correlated to how much dry fire I've been doing. Edited February 10, 2016 by GunBugBit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 This was really helpful, thanks for posting OP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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