atomicbrh Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I need to refresh my old backyard range dirt berm that has eroded some and add on to the length of the berm for greater lateral movement and live fire target transition training. I want the smallest footprint with the greatest height attainable for the foot print. Tires and wood are out. Got a big mosquito problem already. I have looked at hescos like the military uses but they are too expensive. In the past we have used sand bags stacked with each row 90 degrees to each other at the very top of the dirt berm to get as much height as possible. I like the sandbags because they deteriorate over time and the dirt stays compacted for awhile. The small footprint is needed because I need room to maintain the fence behind this berm. Steel plates are out because we still shoot centerfire rifles also. This is on a tight budget since this is for the backyard. Any suggestions appreciated. Any new technology out there for building berms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) I am doing the same thing. Adding to the height and making the berm have 90% ends so I can shoot L&R. Dirt is what I'm starting with And small retention wall on the front rear, with railroad Xties. Good luck! Oh yea, drains for the rain. Last thing I want ir a small pond or have water coming up in the back yaed. I have a ditch behind the range/ berm and I'll use it to help with to much rain. Edited June 15, 2012 by a matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 You can get blocks that are interlocking from local concrete manufacturers, they pour them from waist so they are cheap ($35 each around here). You can push dirt up against them and the back side will take place of your fence. The only problem is that you'll need equipment to move them, so if you don't have a pretty big FEL or fork lift you'll have to rent one (they weigh over 2000#s each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 This is what jmorris is talking about : I've seen them used as dividers at the local recycling yard to keep the various thing separated. I had no idea they were so cheap. I think a couple of rows high and then fronted with dirt and you would be GTG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Depending on what you have available for equipment, the easiest way is to stack your dirt up bigger than you want. Compact it in lifts( every 2 feet), and then"sculpt" your berm to the proper size. That is how they built the berms in Tulsa. That is the only way to get a small footprint and a lot of height. We use the blocks from the ready-mix companies at our gun club. It cost us more to transport them and set them, than the cost of the block itself. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Warpspeed, those are pretty close to what I am talking about except the outfit here has a different mold that has angles formed into them male on top, female on bottom and opposite on either end as well. So once they are stacked together not even light can get through the seams where they join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowtop Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 We use the male and female concrete blocks for retaining walls here in TN. If you prep the location first an the truck can get in your backyard they will stack them for you. If not rent a bobcat and make sure you have a strong chain. They are poured with rebar hooks to set them with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomicbrh Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 If not rent a bobcat and make sure you have a strong chain. They are poured with rebar hooks to set them with. The soil where the shooter stands is never dry enough not to rut with heavy trucks like dump trucks. Every time I have the dump truck drivers back right up to the berm I spend a lot of time leveling their ruts. This brings up two questions. Will the average rental bobcat pick up those 2000# blocks of concrete if I can find a large enough chain or do you mean drag them into place by the chain? Does the concrete place put rebar throughout the block to keep it from cracking? Bobcats are easy to rent in my area. The rental places will drop them off in the early A.M. and pick them up in the afternoon for a reasonable daily fee. Thanks for all the replies. Hescos were around $4000 for 14 feet of length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 "Bobcat" is like saying "pistol" there are too many different ones. One that's small enough to go through a normal back yard gate won't cut it but most of the larger ones will pick up that much weight and more. How high your going to be able to stack them is another question. I picked up a sheet of 3/8" steel at a scrap yard about an hour south of Dallas that is large enough to build a 45 degree angle bullet trap 8' tall and 16' long with side caps for under $1k. Only have to build it once and its relatively easy to move, the entire trap weighs less than 3 of the concrete blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowtop Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Sorry for not going into detail but yes you will need a larger bobcat (with tracks IMO) to carry the blocks to stack in place. It also depends on how high you want to go I notice you said 14' long but I did'nt see a height. If you stack more than three high which is pushing it (size of bodcat and your experience with the machine)use a excavator of correct size. You need to let the rental company know what you are lifting to determine size of machine. A footer will also be needed either concrete or gravel depending on weight of berm and ground conditions also helps to level blocks. By no means is this a throw in place job but once completed it will last. There are two types of block neither are rebar reinforced. 1) retaining wall block 2500lbs 18Tallx46Longx41Deep has hooks can be stacked with a chain 2)waste material block 28Tx60Lx28D 4000Lbs. no hooks must use a spreader bar. Prone to collapse with excssive weight against them. Most of the delivery truck will stack them for you if they can get to the location and have a boom to reach out. You said a dump truck can get to your berm so they might. Check with the company you buy the blocks from to find out how long the boom is on their delivery truck also check around your area for a longer boom truck to be able to keep them out the mud. Communicate wth the company that sale the blocks the will direct you on how the install an what is needed to install. Picture of our wall with decorative retaining blocks set with an excavator due to the height. Edited June 20, 2012 by snowtop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomicbrh Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Thanks everyone for those detailed explanations and photos. jmorris said: I picked up a sheet of 3/8" steel at a scrap yard about an hour south of Dallas that is large enough to build a 45 degree angle bullet trap 8' tall and 16' long with side caps for under $1k. Only have to build it once and its relatively easy to move, the entire trap weighs less than 3 of the concrete blocks jmorris, please post some pictures of this steel bullet trap when you are finished. This has got me thinking again about the steel option for a separate handgun area from the rifle area. Could you imagine a range on the other side of snowtop's retaining wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Well I cut the big sheet into smaller ones yesterday. The triangle end caps are just over 8' tall and 8' deep and the main trap sections are 11.5'x8' and some change. I'll post some more once I get finished welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Post them as you can, I'm very interested too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowtop Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Atomicbrh here is my range, still have some work to do but getting there. Jmorris cant wait to see the finished bullet trap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 snowtop, nothing wrong with that range. I ran through what would be the most cost effective way to build a place to shoot at home and with what I have at the house steel was the winner and has the ability to be moved pretty easy. Down at our farm, where we have more land/terrain to work with we just cleared trees from one field into another. On the back side of the far tree line is a 30' tall infinite embankment formed from erosion. Again less work to cut a few trees than do the dirt work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 I had a bit of time today to do some welding and took a photo as I was flipping it over to weld the back side. Give the size some perspective, looks small flat on the ground. The brace on the near side will be removed once I weld it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowtop Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Jmorris just checking for updates on bullet trap. I need something for the barn that can be moved for winter shooting. Other picture look good so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdlong1 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 my god -- I am envious -- I need my own range bad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) Forgot about this thread, finished it out a few weeks ago and switched gears to the PLC controlled 1050. I may paint it to match the cedars but I bet I wait until its cooler if I do. Edited August 7, 2012 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowtop Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 (edited) Wow that looks good. You can use the section of fence for distance. Nice Edited August 9, 2012 by snowtop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Damit!, I should have thought of that. On second thought, glad you noticed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdlong1 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 THis is a really really great idea -- could you give us an idea of total cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Likely close to $1000 once you figure in fuel to pick it up, gases to cut/weld and wire. Would have been a silly project if I owned a bulldoser but makes a lot of sense if all you have is a forklift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdlong1 Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Likely close to $1000 once you figure in fuel to pick it up, gases to cut/weld and wire. Would have been a silly project if I owned a bulldoser but makes a lot of sense if all you have is a forklift. makes sense to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomicbrh Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 my god -- I am envious -- I need my own range bad! Be careful what you buy! I have not shot a match or posted here lately because I am too busy cutting grass. When friends and family come over to shoot I think I will make them cut grass or string trim for the same number of hours that they shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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