EEH Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 OK,you got your stage design,it has been approved it meets all rules,everyone likes it.How do you put it on the ground,what do you do first?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bshooter Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I always set the barracades, if used, up first. Then I set the targets at the distance I want them shot at. Then place vision blocks or no shoots in strategic position to make the course challanging. You must be talking about a big match which requires approval of the stages. I usually set up stages on the spur of the moment, with about 2-3 hrs before match time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 no big match,just pun that in scenario,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Place the walls and barricades first. That way you can see the available shooting positions you would like the targets available for as well as visualize potential shoot throughs during target placement. After this you can place other barriers and No Shoots to further restrict available shots and prevent shoot throughs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Start at the Backstop and build out. It sucks when your walls got put in the wrong place, and you don't have room to place your targets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I actually do a combination of both. I already know what the tough shots are going to be so I temporarily place them in position. Now I can set up the walls. Most times the deciding factor is the steel. Drop them into rough position and then place the walls and fault lines accordingly. I never put the targets into final position until I know where all the walls and fault lines are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Start at the Backstop and build out. It sucks when your walls got put in the wrong place, and you don't have room to place your targets. Or if you drop in the walls, and then have to maneuver a plate rack or texas star past the walls and towards the backstop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Lets see your stage design. Post it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 ok check this out,,table may or may not be used, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 as usual steel can be taken any time.start behind line toes touching mark-not on drawing-it will be to the left,far taargets ar about 22 yards.two boxes -A-anb B- front 8 targets to be taken from box -A-kinda simple but it was fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 The only critical part to this stage is the steel. Drop it into its rough position and step off the minimum distance needed. Do you have enough room for the rest of the stage? If yes, set walls as needed or if there is still plenty of room step off another couple of paces. Set your walls up and positon the targets and steel as needed to avoid shoot throughs and maintain safe distance to the steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdphotoguy Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) If there is steel I set it roughly in place, then pace off the minimum distance and start placing walls, fault line and the like. It's generally easier to work from the backstop back. Edited June 4, 2012 by jdphotoguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Start at the Backstop and build out. It sucks when your walls got put in the wrong place, and you don't have room to place your targets. +1! Or when you have to move your stage back to accommodate targets and realize that puts another stage within the 180. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 OK,you got your stage design,it has been approved it meets all rules,everyone likes it.How do you put it on the ground,what do you do first?? The first step is to actually figure out what the stage will look like and where everything needs to go. This should be done long before the first thing gets moved to the bay. You don't need a detailed blueprint scaled to the inch, but if all you have is an idea, or a crude sketch on a bar napkin, expect to spend a lot of extra time and aggravation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 The thing I still haven't figured out is how to save time futzing around with the wires connected to pressure pads, poppers, doors, and other activators. I've got most of my props laid out and fault lines down, but I'm still fighting with tangled steel cables trying to find an appropriate length that can be recycled, and trying to crimp down the cable ends. Thankfully, other people setting up other stages are long done and take pity on me and start nailing down my props for me, but I'd rather not have them feel like they setup a stage and a half, while I setup half a stage. It's part of the reason I try to limit myself to just 2 stages with activators a year. Is there a better way? Is recycling the old cables not worth the time and effort and it'll be better to start with fresh cables each time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 you should be able to use the same cable--I use 1/4" rope for that,it stretches but we usually get it to work..I have seen some clubs put a hinge in the center of the trip stick don't take as much pull to activate it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAB33 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Wall - Fault line - Targets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 The thing I still haven't figured out is how to save time futzing around with the wires connected to pressure pads, poppers, doors, and other activators. I've got most of my props laid out and fault lines down, but I'm still fighting with tangled steel cables trying to find an appropriate length that can be recycled, and trying to crimp down the cable ends. Thankfully, other people setting up other stages are long done and take pity on me and start nailing down my props for me, but I'd rather not have them feel like they setup a stage and a half, while I setup half a stage. It's part of the reason I try to limit myself to just 2 stages with activators a year. Is there a better way? Is recycling the old cables not worth the time and effort and it'll be better to start with fresh cables each time? I try to get the faultlines down early on and then work from there. Step off the distance for any steel and make sure you meet the minimum distance. Then get faultlines down and build from there. On activators I pick out the premade cables a long, medium or short one and then I spike the pressure plate and the target is moved to the length of the cable.I hate dealing with nut drivers and wrenches and adjusting all of that stuff. I don't do it unless it is a must. This makes things go up pretty fast and we can still have activators in the stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT45 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 I usually put the fault lines down last... but I tend to draw some fairly complex layouts. I'll usually start in either the up-range left or right corner laying out the walls, barrels,steel and stands... then I'll put the final tweak on the position of the target stands. In a complicated field course, I really hate to have to pull up a wall or section of walls because I initially set them in the wrong place.(I do make the occasional mistake) so I started throwing in measurements on the setup drawings, which has allowed me to hand a couple of stages off to some of the other guys helping with setup. They get them roughed in and I'll put the final tweaks on it. Here is one of the stages I used last weekend at out monthly match at South River Gun Club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Thankfully, other people setting up other stages are long done and take pity on me and start nailing down my props for me, but I'd rather not have them feel like they setup a stage and a half, while I setup half a stage. It's part of the reason I try to limit myself to just 2 stages with activators a year. When we set up stages, the whole crew is setting up stages. Nobody shoots til everything is set up, and nobody (or at least none of the core group) stops setting up until everything is set up. The match also doesn't start til the MD and the ROs/Squad Moms have had a chance to catch their breath and gear up. We don't track who sets up how many stages, we just call out for help if we need it and someone is standing around. Works for us. BB Edited June 5, 2012 by bbbean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 The thing I still haven't figured out is how to save time futzing around with the wires connected to pressure pads, poppers, doors, and other activators. I've got most of my props laid out and fault lines down, but I'm still fighting with tangled steel cables trying to find an appropriate length that can be recycled, and trying to crimp down the cable ends. Thankfully, other people setting up other stages are long done and take pity on me and start nailing down my props for me, but I'd rather not have them feel like they setup a stage and a half, while I setup half a stage. It's part of the reason I try to limit myself to just 2 stages with activators a year. Is there a better way? Is recycling the old cables not worth the time and effort and it'll be better to start with fresh cables each time? I like 1/16" steel rope in 3', 10', 20' and 30' lengths. We put a snap ring on the activator end of the cable and the prop stick end. The prop sticks have eye screws in them so that the snap ring can be attached. The 3' sections give you a little more length if needed. We use cable ties to attach the cables end to end if more than 30' is needed. We either position the activator (Plate) and then place the target at the end of the cable, or position the target (Swinger/Turner) and the popper is set at the end of the cable. If it is critical for both ends to be placed with precision we might use parachute cord to extend the cables total length. The cable ropes coil up nicely, store easily, do not stretch, and are hard to kink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 So when dealing with cables, the common theme seems to be have pre-made lengths. Chain together as need with something simple like parachute cord, zip ties, carabiners, to adjust for length. Set target (and/or pressure plate) to the length of the cord. Makes perfect sense. I think I have a little project to do the next time I'm up at the range to chrono and the weather turns icky: prepare pre-made lengths of cables. It almost sounds the cable ropes are worth the investment because of the easier handling characteristics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 So when dealing with cables, the common theme seems to be have pre-made lengths. Chain together as need with something simple like parachute cord, zip ties, carabiners, to adjust for length. Set target (and/or pressure plate) to the length of the cord. Makes perfect sense. I think I have a little project to do the next time I'm up at the range to chrono and the weather turns icky: prepare pre-made lengths of cables. It almost sounds the cable ropes are worth the investment because of the easier handling characteristics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rishii Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 here's what we do we have 10' lengths of cable with a loop on 1 end, and 2' of chain on the other,snap linked together & rolled up on a extension cord reel we simply pull out how much we need, and the chain on each cable let us easily adjust the lengths to fine tune the activators. and by having them the same length, I'm no longer looking for the a long or short one, there all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 here's what we do we have 10' lengths of cable with a loop on 1 end, and 2' of chain on the other,snap linked together & rolled up on a extension cord reel we simply pull out how much we need, and the chain on each cable let us easily adjust the lengths to fine tune the activators. and by having them the same length, I'm no longer looking for the a long or short one, there all the same. Very nice idea. Will have to copy it. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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