fastarget Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 ok, read the searches, this might be different. Older custom 2011, .40, been shooting minor with it, Kart barrel, caspian slide, svi frame. This gun used to be a flawlessy functioning gun, very reliable. Lately I have started to notice the slide hanging up, about 1/8 in from lock up (measuring back of barrel to breechface)., Yes when cycling slowly, more so if pointing gun down with or without the full recoil rod. Did the stem bind test, in lock up the slide stop will swing, it only feels a fit tight if I put pressure on the back of the slide ( but you can still turn it). This issue seems to have been getting worse since the last 3K rounds of a total of 10K on the gun. Tried different weights of recoil springs, they all work well unless you cycle it slow( the heavier ones do cover up more of the problem). I am seeing it more often in live fire, especially with a loaded mag, or when a round feeds slower, that is enough to make the slide hang up in the same place. It feels like much friction between barrel and slide, sometimes you can tap the slide and make it go, other times no way. So, what can be causing this to get worse with use? Will a shorter link solve the problem? Is this common as guns wear in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Battering of the recoil guide rod head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Battering of the recoil guide rod head? first place I looked, blued it repeatedly and made sure the head, or the sadle part of it is not contacting the belly of the barrel in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Have you tried installing just the bare slide to see if the drag is there without the barrel? Also, is the gun clean when you did these drag tests? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Gun was clean, slide and frame are smooth, actually a lose fit, the disconnector pressure is properly adjusted, and it moves well. Gun is clean, out of the ultrasonice. Took it apart looking at things at least 15 times or more just yesterday. Why the performance is degrading I dont know. I have placed the slide upside down, with the barrel in it, and tried to slide it into place with some pressure down on the barrel, and it will hang in the same place. But that may not be a good test of anything. It feels like a hump, or a snag, once you get past it, it locks up tight and high, the blueing on the middle lug of the barrel transered to it's corresponding area on the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Ok, a bit of an update, Removed the link(#3), reassembled gun with barrel, bushing, and slide stop only and I can get it to do it every time, especially pointing down. rub marks on the middle lug of the barrel and on the left side of the barrel at an upward angle starting 1/8 up from the rails.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isleman75 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ok, a bit of an update, Removed the link(#3), reassembled gun with barrel, bushing, and slide stop only and I can get it to do it every time, especially pointing down. rub marks on the middle lug of the barrel and on the left side of the barrel at an upward angle starting 1/8 up from the rails.... If you have access to a different bushing, try that and see if the problem persists. A poorly fit bushing can sometimes put pressure on one side of the end of the barrel, pushing the breech end in odd ways. The barrel shouldn't have marks near the lugs only on one side. I'm assuming you are referring to the upper lugs that lock the barrel into the slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GmanCdp Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Slideglide!! i had one doing the same thing at times,recoil guide seem to fix it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Is there a shock buff involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Is there a shock buff involved? Edited May 31, 2012 by HI5-O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 You have a timing problem. If it worked ok at first, then check very carefully for a cracked lug, link pin or Link. Go to the Schueman website http://www.schuemann.com/default.aspx He should have a link to timing a 1911 barrel. Probably need to take it to a good smith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Bushing is a briley. Has never been changed In the slide without recoil sys and link out it is better but will still occasionally catch. A tap on the muzzle releases it. But it is better that way. Not sure if this helps but it is worse with some mags Will check out shuemann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isleman75 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Since you've eliminated a few variables but still feel the catch, look at what you have left. Frame, slide, bushing, barrel. One other place to look at a possible hangup is the lower lugs/ramp where it is supposed to fit neatly into the groove cut into the frame. Look at that area in the frame, see if there is anything out of the ordinary. Look at both sides and rear vertical impact area of the lower lugs of the barrel. Check to see if wear is normal. If that area is not fit well to the barrel, it can cause misalignment and problems you describe. Barrel should fit easily and sit in that "bed" when everything is unlocked, but it has to move freely when the lugs impact the slide stop and then force the barrel into the upper lugs in the slide. You may also look at your slide stop and lower lugs on the barrel where the two meet. You should have uniform contact on both sides of the lugs and two square rubbed areas on your slide stop if the barrel and slide stop are mated well together. If one side hits before the other or is the only side hitting, accuracy and alignment of the barrel suffer, and could also be severe enough to cause problems. If all else fails, take it to a good smith familiar with the 1911 platform. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Hello: Since you said it is worse with some mags check to see if the mags are dragging on the slide. Remove the guts from the mag and install and see if some of the mags are dragging. If so look at the disconnector rail and see if there is a burr on it. If not lower the rear cutout on the mag some so it does not drag on the slide. Another to check is if you dropped the hammer on the frame with the slide off. It may have thrown a burr on the frame that is catching. Just some things to look at. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Thanks all for the advice, the hunt continues, I think getting closer. Eric, thanks for the list a few more things to check, at least in the mags that add to the malfunction. The Shuemann website is packed with info, I followed blued etc. Then.......I started looking at the Kart barrel the muzzle last / inch, and the Briley bushing fitted to the gun. When removed from the gun, blued and reassembled I was getting heavy markings where the barrel's diameter increases at the muzzle some on top and bottom, but back where the hump starts and about half way into it, corresponding to top and bottom where the bushing would rub. Hand fitting with a slight angle down, there was much friction. I took some 600 grit and 1200 grit wet paper dipped in oil and just rotated round to polish that area. Now the slide hangs but now, much later than it used to, and at least if I push with my thumb it jumps the spot. Can that be putting the timing off? Can the bushing material wear the barrel or scratch it to cause this, possibly the bushing is not rotating a bit like it was designed to do? How much can I polish and up to where from the barrel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Does it do this empty or just with ammo? I ask because it reminds me of what my Spartan was doing, not locking up that last smidgen. It was an extractor issue, rounds were getting in front of it rather than behind. Sometimes it wouldn't snap over the rim and stop a tiny bit short of lockup. Obviously not your issue if it's doing it empty, but something to keep in mind otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 it does it especially empty, or loaded, even with no link, anything that would slow the slide movement down, and it was getting worse with time, this gun a year ago had no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Hello: Could the Briley internal bushing be getting a burr from the barrel hitting it? Another thing to look at is the ejector to see if it has a burr that is hitting the slide? Have a look at the ejector to see if it has any shinny spots on it. It may be on the top or left side. Just more things to check for you. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 surface of the barrel was rough, just fitting the bushing at a slight angle by hand and attempting to slide it cause it to hang up. Ejector is good, I ran the slide on the frame and it is smooth, no issues. But a good place to look, thanks. I just lightly radiused the outside edges of the bushing with a rubber wheel, polished the muzzle one inch of the barrel with 1200 grit, re-installed the inner ring of the Briley bushing into the slide bushing and packed it with lube, lubed the barrel well. Now if it wants to hand it is at the very last bit of the muzzle, and only briefly. So this was causing or is part of the problem. Either by scratching the barrel, or a burr on the inside part of the internal bushing that prevents its rotation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 If you have a Briley Spherical Bushing, looks like a metal ferrule inside the bushing that the barrel rides in, I'm pretty sure the barrel is supposed to have NO Step at the Muzzle. It's supposed to be one diameter the whole length. A normal Bushing requires a few thousands more diameter at the end of the barrel for tighter lock up and reduced diameter the rest for smooth functioning. If you have the Spherical with an increased diameter at the end it is probably dragging on it and it would cause a similar problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) If you have a Briley Spherical Bushing, looks like a metal ferrule inside the bushing that the barrel rides in, I'm pretty sure the barrel is supposed to have NO Step at the Muzzle. It's supposed to be one diameter the whole length. A normal Bushing requires a few thousands more diameter at the end of the barrel for tighter lock up and reduced diameter the rest for smooth functioning. If you have the Spherical with an increased diameter at the end it is probably dragging on it and it would cause a similar problem. Yes, I believe you are correct. I polished the barrel a bit yesterday, lubed well, and cycled the gun with no issues. Had a match this morning, so shot about 90 rounds, had one hang up. However I noticed that the barrel where it was polished is getting scratched up again, and after the match the problem is returning. So, I need a new bushing, or a new barrel and bushing. The glitch is I have commited to go to the CO state IDPA match with this gun the 23rd of june, since it is my bushing barrel gun. What is the best solution? How would I get a bushing, or should I call Kart and get an easy fit barrel/bushing? Edited June 2, 2012 by fastarget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 I'd get a normal bushing that fits the slide and barrel properly and try that. If it works ok and the accuracy isn't degraded, just use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 SC has an Ed Brown Bushing with an id of .575 id, my barrel measures .577, so it will make it easier to fit...any issues with the choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hello: Get an Ed Brown bushing and run it. You can find them at Shooters Connection. It should install with little to no fitting and will work great. I would then give Sean at Power Factor a call and see what he can do for you. I am sure Briley has run into this before. The Briley bushing is a good one but just may not work for your setup. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Eric, thanks for the help. Ok, ordering EB right now, so I can get on it, and make sure it is reliable. Will email Sean so he can read the thread. Just to check the theory, I took out a couple of bushings from my single stacks, they were the .580 variety, but at least the problem went away when I played with them..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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