1911 Ejector

[Bob McGee]

I have heard that some builders of race guns do not pin the extractors. In that way they can easily change top ends and ejectors for different events. Is this true and is it a good idea. If it works I would like to try switching back and forth between a 9mm and a .45 acp top end on my favorite 1911.

Bob McGee

[PaulW]

Pin it, pin it, pin it.

If you neded to change top-ends, then it's just a little pin to take out to replace the ejector. But I would pin it no-matter-what.

[Kingman]

I pin mine. Granted I am not a known smith, but I have been putting together my own open stuff for a while. If you don't pin it it may move during firing and cause all sorts of probs. Not likely but may.

[hdgun]

Bob, I do exactly as you say. I keep my ejecter without pin to swap back and forth. I never had a problem with it. I also do 45 and 9mm. John

[rhino]

Having seen BigDave's ejector woes over the last year or so, I'd say pin it and you will avoid problems you don't want to have.

[Bob McGee]

Hdgun,

Right now both ejector fit very tightly, ( 9mm and .45 acp ) do you think with repeated swaping that the frame or the ejectors will wear causing a lose fit?

[Flexmoney]

Bob,

There is a post around here where I asked a similar question. I think some of the smiths responded to it. A search might pull it up.

[Carlos]

Good photos & more opinions HERE

http://www.roderuscustom.tzo.com/cgi-bin/i...t=ST;f=10;t=476

I vote not to pin. Works fine for many of the top shooters & their gunsmiths must have a reason for leaving it unpinned (top gunsmiths: feel free to give away your trade secrets here for free; we won't tell anyone, promise!!). True, maybe you could loose the ejector upon disassembly, but I just don't seem to loose parts (even small parts) very often. To each his own.

[schmitz]

There's a hole, so pin it!

My SV came with an ejector without pin, I had my smith put a pin in.

Henny.

[EricW]

Paging Drs. Hill and Londrigan. Dr. Hill and Dr. Londrigan, please come to the lobby.

[benos]

I not only always pinned mine, but if it didn't fit absolutely tight in the frame, I'd put a drop of blue Loctite in the hole when I installed it. (Be careful you don't fill up your trigger parts. )

You want the ejector to be rock solid when the empty case hits it.

be

[Angus Hobdell]

I concur tight as possible.

Same with the extractor I had some problems years ago with extractor twisiting against the firing pin stop plate giving very erratic problems that took forever to pin down. Finally fixed with a EGW oversised firing pin plate.

Either that or and ejector with a tighter slot.

[.40AET]

Pinned is good. What happens if your ejector starts to wobble a little bit. The pin is still in place, buth I can wiggle it around a little bit. I can't pull it off, but it sure ain't rock solid. Should I just order a new pin?

How do you get the existing pin out?

Thanks,

Kirk

[Kingman]

Depending on what type of pin is in it. Some use rolled pins others use solid ones.

If it is really loose maybe get a new ejector. They are a fairly cheap way to ensure reliability. They start at about $20 or so in Brownells. They seem to work some looseness into them as they get used alot. I tend to replace mine occasionally when I rebarrel a gun.

If its not all that loose just do what BE says and loctite it then repin it.

If its a rolled pin you need a punch designed specifically for them so that it does not unroll. If its solid a normal pin punch will take it out. Drive it slowly with a hammer tapping on the pin punch.

[.40AET]

If it is really loose maybe get a new ejector.

Thanks Bob, I ordered a new ejector and 2 pins. Any advice on what size punch to buy and from where?

Thanks again,

Kirk

[Kingman]

Brownells sells nice punches. Thats where I order all mine from. Ask the tech when you call. They are normally very helpful.

I know its one of the smaller sizes, but not sure the exact measurement. I am out of town at work so can't measure mine right now.

No Problem.

[Jon Merricks]

I heard that Brazo's tuned ejector's are the shjt. When I need some new ones (guess that means I'll be sitting around cussing because I didnt preorder them) thats what I'll get.

[PaulW]

Bobs are awesome. All the fine details taken care of. I have used them in several supers and now in a .40 cal. All just went in and the ejection angle was perfect. Not so critical on a limted gun, but an open gun is another story.

[Kingman]

Never used his. I buy whatever happens to be the cheapest extended one and tune it myself. Its really not all that hard. You basically just have to adjust the length to eject safely a live round then tune the contact point and angle.

Actually a really good article buy Bob in the new front sigth on it.

[PaulW]

Bob, I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one. There is ALOT more than just the length when fitting an ejector properly. Length, sides as to not rub the slide, drilling the hole for the pin, face angle for proper ejection, bottom angle so round does not bump into bottom of ejector.

Bob takes care of most of those headaches for you already. CHEAPER does not mean better by any stretch of the imagination.

[Jeffro]

Not wanting to beat a dead horse, but I bought an older but apparently well cared for 1911 (some time back), and took it to my gunsmith/friend to have him do a little "stuff" to it. He disassembled it, and the ejector was not pinned, and the two holes that the ejector "sit in" were worn somewhat "oval" (front to back) to the point where the ejector wobbled in them. He told me that because the ejector was not pinned for apparently quite some time, that the constant impact of the slide slamming the empty brass into the elector with the slightest bit of movement in the ejector, wore the holes oval, and if the ejector is not rock solid, you loose some of the "shock" that is generated when the brass hits the ejector, and ejection is not quite as sharp, and the holes will continue to wear. He welded them up and recut the holes, and I am now a believer in PINNING the ejector. I asked how the slight mass of the brass could cause that elongation of the holes, and he said that thousands of repetitions with the brass hitting the ejector at a high rate of speed that the slide travels rearward is enough to eventually cause that.

I am NOT a gunsmith, and am not saying what is right or wrong, but I DO have a great deal of faith in my 'smith, and I do what he tells me.

Best to all,

Jeffro

[Kingman]

Paul you are correct. I take most of that for granted. I also take pretuned parts for granted I guess.

When I put together my first open gun I was probably 12 or so, and in the early 90's weren't a whole lot of parts that dropped in and worked.

I agree though. I have found that the wilson ones don't hardly ever rub on the sides, so really you just tune the length and the front angle where the first contact takes place.

Maybe next gun I will try one of his though. I am ordering parts now to build a major 9 with a tribrid. HMM.

[kevin c]

My .40 Para has 40K or so through it, and the EGW ejector in it has always been loose. My smith said that Para had misdrilled the hole for the front (roll) pin, but that, since the rear pin keeps the ejector in the frame when the gun is taken apart, and that the slide's ejector tunnel helps do the same while the gun is together and cycling, no biggie. I have had no ejection problems in the gun at all, and no appreciable wear in the post holes. The main problem is the accumulation of gunk in pry slot on the bottom of the ejector, between the posts, but that is a minor irritation only.

[PaulW]

Kevin,

It's A LOT less important with a limited style gun. Do that with an open gun and you could chase that intermittent problems forever.

I like solid and consistant.

[kevin c]

Not being "openillated" (as short round put it), I wouldn't have known. Thanks for the clarification.