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primers in reloads versus factory ammo


cpa5oh

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This is kind of a follow up to another thread I made about 9mm reloads with 115grain bullets...

I've been shooting Winchester white box and Remington UMC 9mm factory ammo out of both a Glock 34 with competition spring kit and CZ 85 combat with lightened spring kit and I've had no ignition issues (only had ignition issues with TulAmmo, which I understand has extra hard primers.)

Then I load ammo myself for the first time using Winchester primers and and I get probably 25% or greater light strikes. People say switch to Federal primers, and I will if that's the only thing that I can do (would require me to get a better press or a hand primer...but that's okay) - but what doesn't make sense is how Winchester white box and Remington UMC fires without incident in both of the above mentioned guns...I assume Winchester uses their own primers in their factory ammo...why would I be struggling to get ignition using their primers in my reloads?

The primers appear to be seating fine (though I do not deprime before I clean my brass...that kinda defeats the purpose of a progressive press it seems.) My press is not adjustable for primer depth but for sure the primers are set into the bottom of the case relative to the bottom of the case itself. I don't think the loads I was using (which were light as explained to me in the other thread) would cause light strikes...also don't think that overall length and crimp have any affect on ignition either...

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This is kind of a follow up to another thread I made about 9mm reloads with 115grain bullets...

I've been shooting Winchester white box and Remington UMC 9mm factory ammo out of both a Glock 34 with competition spring kit and CZ 85 combat with lightened spring kit and I've had no ignition issues (only had ignition issues with TulAmmo, which I understand has extra hard primers.)

Then I load ammo myself for the first time using Winchester primers and and I get probably 25% or greater light strikes. People say switch to Federal primers, and I will if that's the only thing that I can do (would require me to get a better press or a hand primer...but that's okay) - but what doesn't make sense is how Winchester white box and Remington UMC fires without incident in both of the above mentioned guns...I assume Winchester uses their own primers in their factory ammo...why would I be struggling to get ignition using their primers in my reloads?

The primers appear to be seating fine (though I do not deprime before I clean my brass...that kinda defeats the purpose of a progressive press it seems.) My press is not adjustable for primer depth but for sure the primers are set into the bottom of the case relative to the bottom of the case itself. I don't think the loads I was using (which were light as explained to me in the other thread) would cause light strikes...also don't think that overall length and crimp have any affect on ignition either...

One thing I can think of is are you lubing your cases? If you are, some lube may be getting into the flash hole. I had that happen when I first started reloading and didn't pay attentnion to how I lubed the cases.

This may be ignorance on my part, but how would changing brands of primers make you need a different press? One would think that the primer brands are interchangeable in any sort of setup as long as they are the same type (i.e. small or large pistol/rifle). What press are you using?

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This is kind of a follow up to another thread I made about 9mm reloads with 115grain bullets...

I've been shooting Winchester white box and Remington UMC 9mm factory ammo out of both a Glock 34 with competition spring kit and CZ 85 combat with lightened spring kit and I've had no ignition issues (only had ignition issues with TulAmmo, which I understand has extra hard primers.)

Then I load ammo myself for the first time using Winchester primers and and I get probably 25% or greater light strikes. People say switch to Federal primers, and I will if that's the only thing that I can do (would require me to get a better press or a hand primer...but that's okay) - but what doesn't make sense is how Winchester white box and Remington UMC fires without incident in both of the above mentioned guns...I assume Winchester uses their own primers in their factory ammo...why would I be struggling to get ignition using their primers in my reloads?

The primers appear to be seating fine (though I do not deprime before I clean my brass...that kinda defeats the purpose of a progressive press it seems.) My press is not adjustable for primer depth but for sure the primers are set into the bottom of the case relative to the bottom of the case itself. I don't think the loads I was using (which were light as explained to me in the other thread) would cause light strikes...also don't think that overall length and crimp have any affect on ignition either...

One thing I can think of is are you lubing your cases? If you are, some lube may be getting into the flash hole. I had that happen when I first started reloading and didn't pay attentnion to how I lubed the cases.

This may be ignorance on my part, but how would changing brands of primers make you need a different press? One would think that the primer brands are interchangeable in any sort of setup as long as they are the same type (i.e. small or large pistol/rifle). What press are you using?

I am not lubing my cases as I have a carbide sizing die. As for the primers and needing a better press...apparently Lee does not want people using Federal primers in their presses because they more easily ignite versus other brands, if a primer ignites on a Lee press, it could light the entire tray of primers up. I've read alot of thread about the Lee 1000 and Federal primers and half of them end up saying follow the manufacturers instructions and the other half say it isn't an issue (with some saying that Lee doesn't like Federal primers because of a personal issue he has with them not sending him any free primers to test in his machines...sounds like some unbelievable third grade stuff so I don't know about that.) I'm just being cautious and following safety instructions...

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Lee is pretty uptight about safety stuff. I have used federal primers in my lee press, and I didn't die.

One thing you might check is take the barrel out of your gun (preferably without cleaning it), and take 20 or so rounds and drop them into the chamber to make sure they make a nice solid 'thunk'. It is possible (tho not all that likely if you are using Lee dies) you could have some minor sizing issue that is causing the round to come up a fraction of a mm short from completely chambering, so the firing pin might be moving the round slightly further into the chamber instead of igniting the primer.

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Sounds like a primer seating issue. I've reloaded thousands of rounds on a 650. I recently started loading again after a layoff of almost two years and had a few rounds with primers that were not seated deep enough and did not go bang. The feel of a properly seated primer is something that comes with experience. Although you are using carbide dies try lightly lubing your cases. I use the Dillon lube in a pump sprayer. I put my cases in a copy paper box top, get all laying on their side, and give them a few shots of lube. Shake the box to distribute the lube and let it dry for a few minutes before you load. Makes the press run smoothly so you are better able to feel what is happening.

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I used a lee 1000 and the turrets back in the 80's with Federal primers and never set one off. The only loading press to ever set one off for our shop was the Camdex (professional reloading machine 3800 rds an hour) and that was because of a jam. I have used all types of primers and never had a problem on a hand press. I have loaded in the millions. (Dad owned a shooting range.)

As suggested with the Winchester, seat them a little deeper. Be careful if you switch to Federal and try to seat them too deep. Good Luck.

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Only problem for me is that I don't think the primer seating with the lee is adjustable...I've read that and it seems like the handle can only move so far on the downstroke that seats the primers...anything short of a full stroke clearly doesn't seat the primers.

Then again, me not figuring this out means I'm missing something so Im gonna check all that has been suggested.

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Only problem for me is that I don't think the primer seating with the lee is adjustable...I've read that and it seems like the handle can only move so far on the downstroke that seats the primers...anything short of a full stroke clearly doesn't seat the primers.

Then again, me not figuring this out means I'm missing something so Im gonna check all that has been suggested.

Wish I could help you more but my 1000 is 15 hours away and I don't remember how it was all designed.

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I loaded up 30 cartridges with minor differences and headed to the range...the 5 I loaded with Federal primers (used a Lee hand prime tool so as to not take chances with the 1000 and Federal primers) all went bang...of the 25 I loaded with Winchester primers, all but 1 went bang (and when I fired it the second time it went off.) So it appears that it was a seating issue...maybe I thought I was pushing the lever all the way but was not. I just loaded 100 rounds and will take them to an action pistol practice on Thursday - hopefully these ones will all go off without any light strikes, and if that happens, I'm a happy man that can load his own rounds! And maybe once I get through the components I have on hand I'll try something more along the lines of what you guys are using for competition.

Thank you all for your help.

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