Modular Walls II

[Flexmoney]

The screws were a Doc Brown, fall off the toilet and hit my head, flux capacitor moment.

You earn an immediate member nickname... "88mph"

Woops, $2.49/ea on the screws. They are made by Simpson Strong Tie and are called Titan HD anchors. We use the 1/2" x 8" long anchors. Really don't need them any longer if the soil is reasonably firm.

Hmmm... our MD works at Simpson Strong Tie.

[Merlin Orr]

I am going to check the price on some of the big ugly galvanized timber lag bolts at the Depot.

Seem to recall they are around ~$.90 each.

Have to work better than a nail of the same OD...?

[Merlin Orr]

The screws were a Doc Brown, fall off the toilet and hit my head, flux capacitor moment.

You earn an immediate member nickname... "88mph"

Woops, $2.49/ea on the screws. They are made by Simpson Strong Tie and are called Titan HD anchors. We use the 1/2" x 8" long anchors. Really don't need them any longer if the soil is reasonably firm.

Hmmm... our MD works at Simpson Strong Tie.

Bill...Be Very glad it is not "Falls off toilet - hits head"....

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Edited May 3, 2012 by Merlin Orr

[Jim Norman]

I'll have to post a few pics of the set-up trailers at one of our clubs.

We use the inexpensive Stockade Fence, usually lasts for 3-5 years. The trailers are set up so that the fence lays flat on top of a rack with the fault lines, stands, sticks steel and other 'stuff' piled on underneath. $ of the trailers (6 x 8 plus tongue) fit in a 40' Container. We tow them with a golf cart. In the process of adding the same setup to our second club. We've been using a steel trailer, a stand and stick trailer and a mover trailer with the stage crew carrying walls and fault line from a central storage point. The range is situated so that the furthest carry is generally under 30 yards. By moving to all trailers, probably 5 plus an overflow trailer or two we will have a faster setup and teardown as well as keeping our walls or at least the majority of them out of the weather.

Setting up 7 stages each month is a lot of work and without dedicated crew we'd be dead in the water. The trailers will take a lot of the load off the stage builders and allow them to have a better match.

[VIPERONE]

Really good ideas.

We ended up with some different wall lengths at our Club. We have 4', 6', and 8' walls. The 1" 14 gage steel tubing comes in 24' lengths. You can build one wall 6 feet long from a single stick. You cut it in 6 foot sections. With the 4 foot and 8 foot you can cut the horizontals from a stick, and the verticals from another so you are not wasting material. For only 8 foot walls you just cut 3 pieces 8 foot from a single stick.

You can also build 12 foot long walls without wasting material also.

Our bases are different than the ones shown above. We used 1-1/4" 14 gage square tubing welded to a 24" long 3" wide 3/8" thick steel plate. All bases have a minimum of 2 sockets for the wall legs to go in. This way you can continue on, or corner on a single base. We also have a few bases with 3 sockets to form a Tee. In the future if we build any additional bases we will look at the Round Tubing. The ability to Tee into a wall, or add a 90 degree corner on an end should keep the walls from blowing over in a heavy wind, I would think. Another option might be to build a Wind Brace Wall in a Triangle shape. Our pistol range is in a valley with tall oak trees on the side hills. Wind is not an issue for us as long as we have snow fence / construction barrier fabric on the walls, and not solid plastic panels.

We ran the vertical tubing past the top of the horizontal tubing about 2 Inches for the wall top locking collars to go over. The Top Locking Collars are set up exactly like the base sockets only they are 1" long sections of 1-1/4" tubing welded together in clusters.

We also have 4 modular doors that are designed to work with the walls. We have 2 right opening, and 2 left opening. We have a single socket on the door handle side for the wall to attach to. On the hinge side we have 2 sockets. One socket is set up to Tee an interior room wall from as a stiffner for the door. The doors all have 2 bases 24 inches long just like the walls. They free stand as long as the doors are closed. A brace wall is required to help support the door weight when the door is opened. The doors are made up with a 2 x 4 core around the outside perimeter, and 32" X 6 foot plywood skin 1/2 thick on each side. NOTE: The doors are mounted high in the door frames, with about 6 inches of clearance under them. This keeps the doors from dragging on anything when opened. The simple solution for a door closer would be a screen door spring, which we have on the exterior doors of the Shoot House. For the modular doors we just wanted a means of holding them closed. What we came up with is a lawn mower wheel from a push mower on a spring loaded arm. The door pushes the wheel up against the spring loaded arm to open, and it also has to push the wheel up to close the door. The spring loaded wheel just holds the door in the closed position.

We have a Shoot House, and use the modular walls and doors in the shoot house interior. We can pull walls if we need them for a Pistol Match bay.

The Trailer with the sockets to hold the walls vertical is a great idea. You just need to Jig the walls to make sure all are exactly the same size so they all fit the trailer sockets.

Lots of great ideas on this site.

Bob

Edited May 17, 2013 by VIPERONE