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Modular walls


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I recently built some modular walls. They are 6x8, built from 1 box tube and half have uprights for ports in the center, the other half are offset 2 from one side. They are open top and bottom so you can even invert one to have a wall that you shoot over with targets behind. The mounts are ¾ solid bar stock (round so you can create any angle out of the walls) and ¼ plate steel so they are strong and low profile. For added rigidity brackets can also be dropped into the top of the wall too. I built 20 feet for 10 walls so they could be used individually; however, on 10 of them I welded two uprights and 5 welded 3 so when you go from making a single wall to a building they are tied together.

This configuration only used half of the feet.

IMAG0785.jpg

This is what they look like.

IMAG0784.jpg

Edited by jmorris
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How much invested? and what about bullet strikes on downrange wall frames? I like the idea, to a point, but...

I personally don't like see-thru walls, either screen or netting. It is an unnatural presentation, we can see the targets long before we can shoot them since the walls do not block vision. Yes this offers a bit of safety as you can see through the walls to ensure a clear range. It may also allow spectators to see what is going on down range. I still don't like them.

We use in-expensive stockade fence. usually good for three to four seasons. When they get shot up too much, we cut them up for half walls and the like and eventually scrap them. No problem with shoot throughs, you can't see the target to engage early and unlike the orange netting, you can see the holes. We do mask ports and edges with black painted cardboard to keep people honest.

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Excellent props! The frames are similar to what we use in our section. Coroplast was attached for vision barriers and we have wagons with mounts for storage. One difference is that we have pipes that the legs fit into rather than posts for them to fit over. I like your idea of making mounts to attached them at the top we usually use zip-ties. This is what ours look like:

They have served us well for about 7 years.

Edited by sidnal
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Starting 2 years ago I build a dozen walls a year for the Owensboro, KY club with help from some of the members. Our walls set out for 9 months a year so treated lumber is a must. 2x2's warp too easily, 2x4's were too heavy, the setup clew is a bunch of retired gents. I rip 3 - 2x6's for each wall and end up with 2x3's, actual dimensions are 1 and 1/2 by 2 and 5/8ths. These are lighter but have not warped like smaller lumber. The walls consist of an 8 foot top and bottom plate with 3 - 81" studs, one on each end and one in the middle. The 3 - 15" inch cutoff's are mitered and used as diagonal braces at the top and bottom of the middle stud. The remaining piece yields the 4th 15" brace for the middle stud and 4 - 20" braces for the outside corners. 1 "L" bracket made from a 2x4 is screwed to the middle stud and is pinned to the ground using landscape spikes. A black plastic mesh is stapled over the wall for a covering. I agree with Jim N. in that I prefer a solid cover. In this case, wind is an issue and the mesh works.

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They are not bulletproof, if I wanted something like it down range I would use one of my modular target stands.

Like this but with longer sticks.

IMAG0326.jpg

I understand the see through part but I'll have to admit I don't care what they put on them as long as they are happy. To block vision, shade cloth does a good job and as Sidnal pointed out coroplast (like cardboard made of plastic) allows zero visibility, weighs very little and can be left outside for a long time.

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Nice.... WE have a bunch built with square tubing and the same basic feet but our walls drop into the feet rather than over the feet. Snow fencing completes the setup....

The wind blows 30 mph year round in Corpus Christi. Solid walls are TOUGH to keep standing....

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slight thread drift ahead.....

I like tie wire, the kind that ironworkers use to tie rebar together.

I attach the spool to my porch, I take the end of the wire (from the inside of the spool) walk down the sidewalk with it to the furthest sign post I can find, swing the wire around the sign post, then walk back to my porch. then cut the other end free with a pair of kleins, grab both loose ends and pull to get all the stretch out of the wire.

then I chuck both ends into a drill, chuck it down tight, and fire it up, and let the two strands twist around each other. I keep on the drill's trigger until I can actually feel or see the ever tightening wire pull me and the drill closer to the sign.

then I UNchuck the wire. walk up to the sign post, and cut it loose. then I wrap it or coil it back it up into something neat/clean looking and easy to handle.

then I take that to the range and cut off foot long to 18 inch long pieces to tie our wall sections together.

we use snow fencing, but there is this other stuff called "pearl weave" that is pretty stout and weather resistant too.

back on topic...

that's nice looking stuff J!

:cheers:

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We use to use fence post to hang walls but when I got thinking if a gun was 2 ft from it and hit the post I decided to use wood. At least the bullet's wont come back off wood. The price of steel is through the roof unless you have a good source. Now that I think about it the price of wood high enough too.

Are walls are 2x2 and 2x4 "L" shape uprights to tie rap the walls too. We put them up after every match indoors.

Brent

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I recently built some modular walls. They are 6’x8’, built from 1” box tube and half have uprights for ports in the center, the other half are offset 2’ from one side. They are open top and bottom so you can even invert one to have a wall that you shoot over with targets behind. The mounts are ¾” solid bar stock (round so you can create any angle out of the walls) and ¼” plate steel so they are strong and low profile. For added rigidity brackets can also be dropped into the top of the wall too. I built 20 feet for 10 walls so they could be used individually; however, on 10 of them I welded two uprights and 5 welded 3 so when you go from making a single wall to a building they are tied together.

This configuration only used half of the “feet”.

Nice setup, what was the approximate cost for the materials you have pictures you posted.

Cheers ....

Kevin

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I also built mine using 1" square tubing, and I prefer solid walls so I use cheap tarps from Harbor Freight. The tarps work great and are on their fourth year of being outside all year long and holding up surprisingly well. The steel frames have taken a few direct shots, but other than having dents they're still working fine.

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