dskd Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 can you please put up photos of your nra open pistols as I'm looking at making one and want to see some of the designs out there thanks dk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Here is some of the best info there is. 98% of the guns will probably look like this. A few STI framed guns. Some have the Caspian shroud. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76683 Some pictures of the slide in this thread as well. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108182&st=0&p=1230881&hl=metallic&fromsearch=1entry1230881 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beladran Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Guess I fall in the 2% that dont conform to the norm lol not exactly a group I could cover with a nickle but considering this is a revo, no comp, DAO, lead bullets, tens of thousands of bullets down the pipe. I think she is still doing good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Dang.. I knew there were one or two of you guys around. Thats why i changed it to 98 instead of 99%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beladran Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 lol Just so nobody tars and feathers me for my revo.... Cogan custom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I just got from my gunsmith the worlds cheapest NRA gun. So far including the donor gun, used Aimpoint, new Stickshift, New barrel, used shroud and, tomorrow, new comp. It should run about $1800 NZD ($1400 USD). Sunday will be the real test. Pictures soon. Unless it shoots like crap then it never happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I just got from my gunsmith the worlds cheapest NRA gun. So far including the donor gun, used Aimpoint, new Stickshift, New barrel, used shroud and, tomorrow, new comp. It should run about $1800 NZD ($1400 USD). Sunday will be the real test. Pictures soon. Unless it shoots like crap then it never happened. Holy Crap, was the donor gun like $400 ? Does that include gunsmith labor ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) Donor Gun was FREE! 9mm Norinco 1911, I would like to warn readers that foul language will follow. A "nice man from Australia" (sorry but you were warned) had one too many on his licence. He needed it out of Australia and I had a home needing another gun. It actually shot OK, once you got past the evil trigger they some how managed to get in this gun. I have never felt anything so ugly in all my life. Gunsmith was $745NZ, including taxes. The list of things he did was extensive, I will find the list and post that. But I put about $5000 or work his way this year so maybe he cut me a deal. Barrel was $300NZ at the time. Thanks Jay Della Bella. Grip Safety, Ambi Safety and barrel bush were prizes from 2010 Bianchi Cup. Thanks Caspian. Recoil Spring, Main Spring and Pin Kit sear connector were from 2010 Bianchi Cup Brownells voucher. Thanks Mr Brownell Used Koenig shroud off Bruce Piatt, thanks Bruce. Stick Shift was from Warren Moore. Can't remember what that ran me, but I know he cut me a sweet deal. Aimpoint 7MOA, I "acquired" in a multi stage gun trade / money go round through the gun shop I work at sometime 2009. I think that may have cost me $150NZ in real dollars. Trigger could do with replacing, but it is about 2.5lb. Group testing Sunday. Runs reliable on factory Federal American Eagle 124gr RN, when I tested it at the back of the shop this morning. All other internals came out of the dead parts bin, stuff that I had removed for some perceived failing and never got round to throwing away. I finally have proved my wife wrong (don't tell) when she keeps asking "why do you keep all this old shjt?" and I answer "you never know when you will need something" Yes gentleman you now have written confirmed proof that you are right when you hoard old stuff. Comp from Karl Piper. Magazines from a local guy who had 4 he was no longer using. Nice guy too, he makes his own Bourbon as well. Grips will be local reproductions of the K&N, I have std rubber wrap arounds on it for the time being, but my daughter will want those back for her gun for Bianchi. Got busy at work and forgot to do the photos. Will try Saturday. It will get the following further mods. Flat Mainspring housing and prone pad. I think I have a used one at the shop off an old Para somewhere and I have a bottle of Goldfield Shooters White Lightning to trade in May!!! Edited March 16, 2012 by gm iprod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Get with me at the Cup If you need a Prone Pad - I might like to try some of that special lemonade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LtCop Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) I always thought I was a 1%'er, guess Jeromy bumped me to a 2%'er! Thanks man. Anyway, here's a few of my open revolver. Edited March 16, 2012 by LtCop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 I always thought I was a 1%'er, guess Jeromy bumped me to a 2%'er! Thanks man. Anyway, here's a few of my open revolver. That looks nice! Maybe I'll see it in Columbia tomorrow ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LtCop Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Unfortunately I just wasn't able to make it to K.C. to shoot this winter. My work schedule has gotten really FUBAR'd here recently, I'm back to working weekend days. This couldn't of come at a worse time. On a more positive note, the gun and I are getting along very well. I've been able to practice with it here quite a bit recently and am very pleased with the way it is shooting. I do plan on shooting the Flagler Cup and my application is in the mail for the Bianchi Cup, I'll see you in May! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pledger Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I always thought I was a 1%'er, guess Jeromy bumped me to a 2%'er! Thanks man. Anyway, here's a few of my open revolver. Hi, May I ask where you got the handgrip for your revolver. Cheers .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LtCop Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Kevin, The grips are stock S&W target K frame target grips that I modified with a dremel tool. I opted to use these grips so I could get a good high grip on the gun. The lack of finger groves helps me on my speed draws get that high grip for better recoil control. All the modifications I did are a personal thing and designed for my hand and body plus shooting style. I sanded some wood away from under the frame so I could get a higher grip. The front edge of the grips are now more staight up and down now thus reducing some of the overall surface of the grip allowing me to get a better grip on the gun. The bottom of each side panel received some attention also. I beveled the right and left side panels bottom edge so my big palm craddles the bottom of the grip better. Since I'm right handed I beveled the bottom edge of the left panel more since my left hand sits lower on it. I opened up the speedloader notch quite a bit with a dremel too. I lightly sanded down the sharp edges of the diamond checkering some too. The prone base is made from a solid piece of burled walnut that I had in my wood shop. It started off as a 4x4 inch square chunk of walnut. It took some time to make this....longer than I thought it would anyway. I started off with a plan in my head and worked from there. It doesn't interfere with my hands on the grip and is extremely stable when I go prone. The top of the prone base is strippled (by using a dremel beading tool), the bottom of it is smooth. I made the leading edge a rounded V shape and used a round over bit in the router to give it an smooth edge on the bottom so that it won't catch when I slide the gun on a shooting mat when going into my prone position (think of it like a V bottom boat cutting through water). When going prone I drop to both knees, then fall forward.......I'm old and slow. The base attaches to the bottom of both grip panels by 4 (2 on each side) fine thread wood screws. These holes had to be pre drilled through the prone pad and lined up with the bottom of each grip panel. I had to pre drill the grips for the screws to attach the prone base. I can remove the screws and then take the grip panels off for cleaning and maintance of the gun this way. Where it attaches to the bottom of the grip it is narrow enough that it does not interfere with my natural grip. I've toyed with the idea of recessing last years Bianchi Cup challenge coin into the bottom of the prone pad and epoxying it in place, but haven't gotten around to that yet. I use a CRSpeed holster and never have any problem with the grip hitting my side when I draw. The bottom of the prone pad was designed (with the height of it, and bottom edge being angled slightly) so that the dot is lined up with my eye and on target when I get behind the gun making for little adjustment and lost time with messing with the gun when lining up a shot. The gun moves very little under recoil on the ground with this pad making for very fast and steady follow up shots. The extra height of the prone pad allow me to grab the grip low when doing a weak hand transfer and get the gun into my off hand quickly and in the right grip position for a quick first shot (that is if I can find the dot!) The little bit of extra weight helps steady the gun when shooting free style too. I finished the grips and prone base with a couple of coats of a wipe on poly finish, then used some steel wool to knock the shine down. The gun does not feel like it is stuck to my hand (like with a rubber grip) and the gun can move naturally under recoil since the grips are smooth wood. If I botch the draw I can quickly re adjust my grip with a slick grip. I had considered buying either a Nill or Hogue Action Pistol style grip, but this was a lot cheaper, I made it myself and it is a custom fit for my hand/body. In my opinion the gun is much more stable with the wide bottom for prone shooting. When you hit the ground with it and plant the gun it does not rock from side to side as it would with a narrower prone pad. The gun is purpose built for Action Pistol shooting, but if I wanted to remove the wings and prone pad I always could and shoot another sport with the gun I guess. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pledger Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Kevin, The grips are stock S&W target K frame target grips that I modified with a dremel tool. I opted to use these grips so I could get a good high grip on the gun. The lack of finger groves helps me on my speed draws get that high grip for better recoil control. All the modifications I did are a personal thing and designed for my hand and body plus shooting style. I sanded some wood away from under the frame so I could get a higher grip. The front edge of the grips are now more staight up and down now thus reducing some of the overall surface of the grip allowing me to get a better grip on the gun. The bottom of each side panel received some attention also. I beveled the right and left side panels bottom edge so my big palm craddles the bottom of the grip better. Since I'm right handed I beveled the bottom edge of the left panel more since my left hand sits lower on it. I opened up the speedloader notch quite a bit with a dremel too. I lightly sanded down the sharp edges of the diamond checkering some too. The prone base is made from a solid piece of burled walnut that I had in my wood shop. It started off as a 4x4 inch square chunk of walnut. It took some time to make this....longer than I thought it would anyway. I started off with a plan in my head and worked from there. It doesn't interfere with my hands on the grip and is extremely stable when I go prone. The top of the prone base is strippled (by using a dremel beading tool), the bottom of it is smooth. I made the leading edge a rounded V shape and used a round over bit in the router to give it an smooth edge on the bottom so that it won't catch when I slide the gun on a shooting mat when going into my prone position (think of it like a V bottom boat cutting through water). When going prone I drop to both knees, then fall forward.......I'm old and slow. The base attaches to the bottom of both grip panels by 4 (2 on each side) fine thread wood screws. These holes had to be pre drilled through the prone pad and lined up with the bottom of each grip panel. I had to pre drill the grips for the screws to attach the prone base. I can remove the screws and then take the grip panels off for cleaning and maintance of the gun this way. Where it attaches to the bottom of the grip it is narrow enough that it does not interfere with my natural grip. I've toyed with the idea of recessing last years Bianchi Cup challenge coin into the bottom of the prone pad and epoxying it in place, but haven't gotten around to that yet. I use a CRSpeed holster and never have any problem with the grip hitting my side when I draw. The bottom of the prone pad was designed (with the height of it, and bottom edge being angled slightly) so that the dot is lined up with my eye and on target when I get behind the gun making for little adjustment and lost time with messing with the gun when lining up a shot. The gun moves very little under recoil on the ground with this pad making for very fast and steady follow up shots. The extra height of the prone pad allow me to grab the grip low when doing a weak hand transfer and get the gun into my off hand quickly and in the right grip position for a quick first shot (that is if I can find the dot!) The little bit of extra weight helps steady the gun when shooting free style too. I finished the grips and prone base with a couple of coats of a wipe on poly finish, then used some steel wool to knock the shine down. The gun does not feel like it is stuck to my hand (like with a rubber grip) and the gun can move naturally under recoil since the grips are smooth wood. If I botch the draw I can quickly re adjust my grip with a slick grip. I had considered buying either a Nill or Hogue Action Pistol style grip, but this was a lot cheaper, I made it myself and it is a custom fit for my hand/body. In my opinion the gun is much more stable with the wide bottom for prone shooting. When you hit the ground with it and plant the gun it does not rock from side to side as it would with a narrower prone pad. The gun is purpose built for Action Pistol shooting, but if I wanted to remove the wings and prone pad I always could and shoot another sport with the gun I guess. John John, Appreciate the reply. The grip on my AP revolver is also home grown, so to speak, but doesnt have such a wide base as yours, which makes it a little unstable when prone, but managable. Your grip has given me some more idea's. I used to shoot AP actively in NZ when I lived there in the 80's. In Singapore now, the main game is IPSC, but WA1500 / some other forms of PPC matches are creeping in a little so want to get back to challenging myself again. Cheers .... Kevin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LtCop Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Kevin, Glad I could be of some help. This will be my first year with this gun at the Cup. I shot at the Cup for the first time last year in the metalic division with a semi auto. In spite of a dismal finish I was hooked after that experience and decided to get serious about the sport. Funds precluded building a semi auto open gun, so an open revolver was my best choice. I have considered buying a Jerry Miculek style grip for this gun and modifying it by adding a similar prone pad. That may have to be a project for next years Cup. With the double action trigger pull you will appreciate the wide base. There is no tendancy for the gun to torque as the cylinder rotates and you work through the longer trigger pull making it easy to keep the dot pinpointed. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I have posted a new thread and pictures of the cheeeeepeee. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148492 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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