earplug Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Just mentioning that I have had better scores with a moderate light trigger with a snappy trigger return feel, then with a very light trigger with a wimpy trigger return. I'm fairly cheap and cast my own bullets and I have found that the lube from my bullets will gunk up the action and effect the trigger return speed and feel. This only occurs during classifiers and matches with several other wheelgun shooters who i'm trying to beat. I have found that a smooth consistent trigger is better then a very light inconsistent trigger. In Bullseye circles I have what might be called chicken finger on my trigger. I'm a older c class shooter with problems getting to speed. The added excitement of a slow trigger return or a uneven pull is not welcome. Springs tend to get weaker and usualy fail when you need them the most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 This is a good thing to remember when going for the lightest possible trigger pull. If you don't have a snappy return, you will have to learn to move the trigger finger both ways instead of just riding the trigger back forward. Otherwise you will end up short stroking the trigger which results in the trigger locking up on the next pull and indexing past that round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jar Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I think I read somewhere that Jerry runs a really heavy rebound spring for similar reasons. With a lighter one, the trigger doesn't reset fast enough. I have my M&P 9mm set up the same way. I use the Apex competition kit, except with the stock trigger return spring because the comp one makes the reset too weak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I think I read somewhere that Jerry runs a really heavy rebound spring for similar reasons. With a lighter one, the trigger doesn't reset fast enough. I have my M&P 9mm set up the same way. I use the Apex competition kit, except with the stock trigger return spring because the comp one makes the reset too weak. Mas Ayoob reported that long ago, but actually that has not been true for years. Years ago, Jerry ran heavy recoil springs, but if you ask him about that now, he will tell you, "No, I outgrew that." Jerry is a big believer in the "dynamic trigger finger," and stresses that the trigger release is just as important as the pull. I personally like a little more trigger rebound than you get with some of the "super-light" competition actions on the market. However, I believe that relying on the rebound spring to push your finger forward is a crutch that should be avoided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I am curious to know about the lube gumming up in the action. My 610 has 25k+ rounds since the last time the side plate came off and I have yet to notice any sort of loss of quality in the action job. Perhaps this is a lube specific problem or something we can help on address. I also cast my own bullets. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 I am curious to know about the lube gumming up in the action. My 610 has 25k+ rounds since the last time the side plate came off and I have yet to notice any sort of loss of quality in the action job. Perhaps this is a lube specific problem or something we can help on address. I also cast my own bullets. Lee Thanks, I use the Lee 1R 228 bullet and Rooster Jacket and CLP to clean. Have been shooting this combination for several years. Have had very little problems with my Bullseye gun. But the USPSA/ICORE gun with a much lighter DA trigger was starting to hang up. The trigger was getting slow to reset. I cleaned it up and added a coil to the rebound slide spring, refit a longer strain screw and all is much better now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Interesting. One would think my configuration of shooting minor would be the worst for keep the action clean if there was one but I really never even clean art of the midpoint of the cylinder. I never even see fouling around the stop. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Probably more a case of my rebound spring being on the ragged edge of pushing the trigger forward. Had a good match today, with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Depending on the bullet/lube and the tightness of the endplay and/or the gas ring, I've had lead/lube start dragging on the cylinder. My guess that's what the problem is. I've got a M28 that does it with some bullet combo's. But my M29, which I use only 240 LRN in, and M625 don't suffer with that problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 cleaned it up and added a coil to the rebound slide spring, refit a longer strain screw and all is much better now. I'm a little confused adding to the rebound spring makes sense as it drives the trigger forward and raises the hammer, but adding to the main spring tension with the longer strain screw would work against you as it makes it harder for the rebound spring to raise the hammer. I would think that the return spring by its self would have done the trick for you, and that adding the longer strain screw just raised the overall pull weight without making the return any better. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Just wanted to add some whack to the primers while I was at it. Nice to have a 100% gun with all my ammo. I almost deleted that earlier post. It made sense to me at the time. cleaned it up and added a coil to the rebound slide spring, refit a longer strain screw and all is much better now. I'm a little confused adding to the rebound spring makes sense as it drives the trigger forward and raises the hammer, but adding to the main spring tension with the longer strain screw would work against you as it makes it harder for the rebound spring to raise the hammer. I would think that the return spring by its self would have done the trick for you, and that adding the longer strain screw just raised the overall pull weight without making the return any better. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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