hondaman Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I'm still trying to figure out the voodoo on this swaging part. I cut open a piece of brass to see what was going on, and that was helpful. Now I think I got it swaging correctly (test by hand priming), put when its swaging its kind of pusing the shell plate up a little bit. Is this normal/acceptable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 It sounds like either the shellplate lock ring needs to be tighter, or the swage backup die needs to be threaded down a bit more into the toolhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 It sounds like either the shellplate lock ring needs to be tighter, or the swage backup die needs to be threaded down a bit more into the toolhead. How do you know when the swage back up die is adjusted correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow10mm Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 How do you know when the swage back up die is adjusted correctly? How I adjusted it was drop the swage rod out of the way, lower the toolhead on an empty, deprimed case in the swage station. Screw the die down until it gently stops inside the case. Set the lock ring. Then adjust the swage rod height until it removes the crimp. Set the lock ring. If your shellplate is moving, it's likely a bit loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 How do you know when the swage back up die is adjusted correctly? How I adjusted it was drop the swage rod out of the way, lower the toolhead on an empty, deprimed case in the swage station. Screw the die down until it gently stops inside the case. Set the lock ring. Then adjust the swage rod height until it removes the crimp. Set the lock ring. If your shellplate is moving, it's likely a bit loose. +1 good description, I can add the when it is working to swage my 223 brass , I can feel it in the Handel , and I don't want to see the shell plate move up at all. its not easy for certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow10mm Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 For illustration, this the the handle position when I feel a different pressure on the handle. This is shellplate empty except station 3 swaging. This is what the toolhead position is. It's basically sizing die on the shellplate. The crimp removal happens when it the press cams over, giving it that extra travel on the swage rod, while everything else is static, and removes the crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I'm trying to setup my 1050 to process .223 brass. I am completely new to rifle ammo. I'm working with crimped brass. How do you tell when you have enough/too much swaging? I've looked at the pics in the manual and have made a cutaway case. Does anyone have any advice and/or better pics than in the manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 In trying to determine an answer to the above, I found references on other forums to using the swager button from the RCBS swager combo as a gauge. Has anyone used this method? I might contact RCBS to see if they sell the button as a stand alone part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow10mm Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Swage and try to seat a primer. There is a picture of a properly swaged primer pocket in the manual. That's what it looks like. Pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Swage and try to seat a primer. There is a picture of a properly swaged primer pocket in the manual. That's what it looks like. Pretty easy. YOu could use a hand primer tool if you have one as a test. What I do is just set the swaged case over a primer and see if it will enter of hang up on the edge of the pocket. When a primer catches the primer pocket hole it will smash out and roll into a mess. You can feel it when you try to seat the primer. I end up have to chase prockets with a debure too sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I ended up putting what looks like a very mild swage on the brass. It looks like too little to me (I can't even really see a difference), but I primed 25 cases without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I ended up putting what looks like a very mild swage on the brass. It looks like too little to me (I can't even really see a difference), but I primed 25 cases without issue. That sounds like what I do too, even with a good pair of glasses I can barrley see a diffrenc. But the diffrenc is in that the bass will take a primer or wont take a primer. I seperate my brass too for brass that has / had a crimp to brass that was good to start with. When its a problem you end up with brass shavings off the primer and case = it looks messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Taliani Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Excellent! It sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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