Still Having Swage issues on 1050

[sasquatch981]

I purchased a used 1050, and I now have all the pieces to finish the set up. However, I am having difficulty with the swage process. I have followed the process in the Dillon manual, and the suggestions posted on this board by Dillion. I still have issues. I even took to a .223 case (Commerical non-crimped) with the dremel to give me a “window” to watch was going on. Please see the photos below.

My question is, can the swage rod get “rounded” to a point where it won’t swage the brass any more? In the photos below, there is a case that seems to have been swaged correctly, and then a case that is typical of what I am getting which appears to have a “ring” around the primer pocket that has not been swaged.

The photos show how the swage rod support touches the bottom of the case to hold it in place, while the swage rod comes up just below the bottom of the primer pocket roof. When the handle is pulled down the shell plate seems to rise just perceptibly when the swage rod comes up from the bottom, so I don’t want to raise the rod anymore for fear of creating too much tension plate or breaking the rim off the .223 case.

[yoshidaex]

If the swage support rod is set up right, I don't see how it would be possicle to tear the rim off.

I experimented with the swage setting from barely noticeable all the way to the point where it looks like a primer won't stay seated.

Never tore a rim off.

[Retread1911]

I have never changed the two swage rods I have used in my 1050. While I have only loaded around 60k I would think that steel is far harder than the brass and will never wear out. Give it another 1/8 a turn and check it again. My shell plate moves about 1/32 of an inch when I swage .223.

[RiggerJJ]

If the shell plate is rising the top swage rod (also called the hold-down rod) needs to be lowered 1/2 turn or so. When the swager is set correctly (on my machine anyway) the shell plate just starts to rise very slightly, then the top rod pushed it back down. You will feel the swager over-cam just slightly (and the shellplate stays down), maybe the last 1 - 1 1/2 inch of the handle movement to full stroke. When there is no case in the swager station you will not feel this over-cam.

jj

[markcic]

Are you sorting by headstamp? Brass from different manufactures has different internal dimensions. Is the brass you sectioned to setup the swager the same as what you are processing?

[sasquatch981]

Tinkering a little bit more today, I have been able to get more consistent results. However I am noticing on some cases the "over-camming" effect seems to be more than others. Is there "too" much over-cam that can happen?

[RiggerJJ]

Tinkering a little bit more today, I have been able to get more consistent results. However I am noticing on some cases the "over-camming" effect seems to be more than others. Is there "too" much over-cam that can happen?

Different headstamps will cause this, same headstamp different year will also. Best is to sort by mfg and adjust the swage for "middle of the road". Too much over-cam will damage something, usually the bottom swage rod, but it takes quite a bit to get to that point. Adjust it so you feel over-cam resistance at about the 1 to 1 1/2 inch of the handle's full stroke and you should get a good swage.

JJ

[noylj]

Do your cases NEED to be swaged? First time military cases need to be swaged and are the cases you need to use to set the swage. If you are using commercial cases or already swaged cases, you don't need to worry about the swager.

Your set-up looks good to me and I think you may be over-thinking and over-worrying about things.

[viper5243]

Im doing 308 right now. I wanted to prep all my brass before switching out the toolheads to load it. Im just not sure if im taking enough crimp out, taking enough out, or taking too much out.

[SevoTT]

I adjusted the bottom rod up until I just barely had reliable primer seating on the mixed brass that I use. Until I adjusted it up, I had up to 5% crushed or smeared primers. I still have the ring or crimp visible, but the lip is rounded over/swaged (looks more like the case on the left in the last photo). Based on the 3rd photo, my bottom rod is adjusted a little higher. Bottom line, you should seat a couple hundred primers trouble free to know if you have the pocket swaged enough.

[D.Hayden]

Been awhile since I had to swage military brass.. is the 3rd photo of the first post ..about right?

The wider part of the swage rod should just touch the primer rim? Is that the part that actually swages, or is it the tip of the swage rod going into the pocket?

ETA: right now I adjusted it just until the primer doesn't have a 'crunch' feeling when being seated on a 550 - which seems about right

Thanks, Dave

Edited February 25, 2013 by D.Hayden

[freakshow10mm]

I never used the cutout method of adjusting the swage station.

Here's what I do:

Take a deprimed case in station three. Swage rod all the way down at full stroke so it doesn't do any swaging. Screw the backup die down until you JUST feel it get resistance. This is bottomed out inside the case. Set the lock ring. Now adjust the swage rod upward and walk it into the primer pocket until the crimp is removed. Tighten the lock nut when the press is at full stroke (handle all the way down). I've done .223 and 9mm like this and never touched the setting for over 2 years. Swages both with mixed headstamps and no problems.