Fahrenheit Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 on my Match 10mm. Gots to say I love it to death. One thing that I think it needs it some of the sharp edges around the trigger guard smoothed out. Anyone know of any quality shops to that that and re plate the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Csiedmond1 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Sounds fun, and painful at the same time... Sorry cant help with the shop to fix it though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I took a gunsmithing stone a took the sharp edges off all my trigger guards. I think its mostly the chrome that creates the sharp edges. You can't tell where I did that on my hard chrome guns, so I don't think you would need to refinish it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Check around for local metal plating companies. You can usually find a local metal plating company that can strip and hard chrome the frame and slide. For example, I use a local company called Denver Metal Finishing. They charge $80 for hard chrome tank time then $5 per item to sand blast before the hard chrome process. So I can get a frame and slide totally redone in hard chrome for $90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Thanks all. Gonna try the stone first. Hope i dont screw it up but Nealio has yet to steer me wrong! I must say the "hard chrome" on the frame is the weakest finish i ever seen on a gun before. I know at some point ill have it re-done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I must say the "hard chrome" on the frame is the weakest finish i ever seen on a gun before. I know at some point ill have it re-done. Why do you say that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I must say the "hard chrome" on the frame is the weakest finish i ever seen on a gun before. I know at some point ill have it re-done. Why do you say that? +1. Why do you say that? I had to work quite a bit trying to roughen up the area around the base of the grip so that I could epoxy on a magwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 I must say the "hard chrome" on the frame is the weakest finish i ever seen on a gun before. I know at some point ill have it re-done. Why do you say that? I must say the "hard chrome" on the frame is the weakest finish i ever seen on a gun before. I know at some point ill have it re-done. Why do you say that? +1. Why do you say that? I had to work quite a bit trying to roughen up the area around the base of the grip so that I could epoxy on a magwell. I'm getting a lot of holster wear and nicks and dings in the finish in a fairly short period of time. I mean I had my S&W in nickle for ever and with a good cleaning the finish looks almost new. Also I googled around for gun smithing stone and see about 1,000 different options. What one do you recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I have a bunch like this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9618/Product/INDIA-STONES All you need is a small one, 4"x1/4x1/4 square, even a triangle would be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 A far as the hard chrome goes, my 2 hard chrome frames look great still after several years of use. Usually what looks like scuffs and scratches is just material from the holster that is transferred onto the frame, so some CLP and a paper towel cleans it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 A far as the hard chrome goes, my 2 hard chrome frames look great still after several years of use. Usually what looks like scuffs and scratches is just material from the holster that is transferred onto the frame, so some CLP and a paper towel cleans it up. The part that seems real fragile is the the part that is frosted. Can you think of a way to touch up that part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 The matte part collects stuff really easily. I use a brush (nylon usually, sometimes bronze) and some Simple Green or CLP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 The matte part collects stuff really easily. I use a brush (nylon usually, sometimes bronze) and some Simple Green or CLP. Yeah I think my finish on my pistol is whacked. Even my ring on my finger seems to be dinging it up. Also as like a side question. My trigger pin keeps walking when I shoot. I'm just gonna try and replace it and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Get the henning trigger pin bolt. The roll pin sucks and I replace it on all my Tanfoglios. The Henning bolt is kinda spendy, but it stays put and makes it a lot easier to take the trigger in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Get the henning trigger pin bolt. The roll pin sucks and I replace it on all my Tanfoglios. The Henning bolt is kinda spendy, but it stays put and makes it a lot easier to take the trigger in and out. You think so lock tight on the roll pin will hold it? I dislike the look of that bolt on the side of my gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 If you don't like the pin and nut system, try swapping in a new roll pin. It's possible the current roll pin just doesn't expand out to get a good friction fit against the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 If you don't like the pin and nut system, try swapping in a new roll pin. It's possible the current roll pin just doesn't expand out to get a good friction fit against the frame. Thanks I'm gonna order one now and give it a try. The pin only drives out one way right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ya know another idea popped into my head while trying to fall asleep. I'm thinking if the new pin walks out I could take a ice pick and place the tip in the end of the roll pin and give it a tap to expand the pin. Does that sound like it will work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 The pin I ordered just got here from Henning, he sent the one for his trigger with the threads for the nut and not the stock one. I did some poking around on the EAA site and ordered a pin from them ($15!). Hope all the stock frames have the same pin size! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) All frames have the same pin size. When you use the Henning Screw/Nut setup make sure that you DO NOT tighten it down to hold the nut secure. Use some red lock tight on the nut and tighten down the screw until it bottoms out then back it out half a turn. The screw should shift back and forth slightly if you loosen it properly. You need this back and forth play to account for frame flex when you shoot the gun. If you tighten down the screw too much the frame will flex and it will break the screw at the threads where the nut is attached. The frame flex is actually why the stock roll pin walks out after shooting a bunch. Edited February 28, 2012 by CHA-LEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sal1950 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 "Sent my 1,000 round down range today.." Dang, hope them were reloads and not factory ammo, unless you got real deep pockets. I bought my Match in .40, and then got a 10mm barrel, wolff 20 spring and some mags. Had to take a few thousands off the barrel hood to get her to lock up but she's been running perfectly for a couple years now in both calibers. Have fun! Sal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fahrenheit Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 "Sent my 1,000 round down range today.." Dang, hope them were reloads and not factory ammo, unless you got real deep pockets. I bought my Match in .40, and then got a 10mm barrel, wolff 20 spring and some mags. Had to take a few thousands off the barrel hood to get her to lock up but she's been running perfectly for a couple years now in both calibers. Have fun! Sal All of it was from Underwood Ammo, good prices on "full power" loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now