Cylinder Peening

[RevolverJockey]

Has anyone experienced excessive cylinder peening on unfluted cylinders as compared to the unfluted version of the same model? I am picking up a 627 with an unfluted cylinder and am wondering if this is something I should expect. I have seen a 625 V-Comp with an unfluted cylinder and didn't notice any difference in trigger pull or wear, but it was a pretty low round count revolver. Thanks,

Lee

[10mmdave]

I did see excessive peening in a non-fluted 610 I shot, to the point I chiped a piece out of one of the notches,

cylinder would still work if it was slow fired but skipped when shot fast.

I thought I felt an issue with the non-fluted 627 38 Super revo I shoot for steel, I ended up milling 8 flutes into the cyl.

with a .250 dia ball end mill. It helped that 38 Super revo IMO but I have another iron sighted 627 Super that feels fine as is.

I belive the peening issue has been talked about before here as a part of how one shoots the gun and not always the heavier

cylinders issue.

[buckaroo45]

One of our resident pro's will step up for this but here's my "hobbyist's" response. I went thru this problem with my 625's but haven't had any problems with my 627's. Seems the heavier weight of the 45 rounds makes for difficulty in stopping cylinder rotation. Per a tip from Carmoney, bless him for sharing knowledge, I found a small "speed bump" at the end of the cylinder ramp into the slot for the cylinder lock that was causing the stop to launch high instead of falling into the notch. I prolly have the wrong names for all this but you'll know what I mean. Anyway, I carefully removed the bump w/ a stone and cratex polishing bit on all 6 positions. I mirror polished the the full length of each ramp w/ jewelers rouge and beveled the exit edge of the ramp going into the notch to assist the cylinder stop getting into the notch faster. I dressed the cylinder stop to a bit flatter profile and managed to move the contact point of the stop to center it's track in the ramp. I slightly beveled the leading edge of the stop and and stoned the stop maybe a couple degrees leading edge to trailing edge to again help the stop getting into the notch. This is with the original MIM cylinder stop so easy does it on all material removal. Seems to work as I've run several thousand rounds since doing all this, including the 2011 Florida State Championship and have zero issues with skipping or peening and it locks up like Ft Knox. Lotta detail work but worth the effort. Don't ask for pictures as I don't have equipment for that kind of detail.