PHX Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 hello all! I was wondering if it is legal to attach a clip to my race master to keep it fixed to my leg. The reason i ask is because every once in awhile i get a little ancy on my draw and bind my trigger guard in the holster. This in turn makes for a terrible draw and really slows down my first shot. my holster is positioned ontop of my right pants pocket. I experimented with putting a paper clip around the holster arm and into my pocket. This held the holster very tight to my leg and even when i tried i wasnt able to bind the gun in the holster. I want to make one out of kydex, but if its not legal i wont waste my time. I read through the uspsa rule book and didnt see anything that addressed this issue. I know this is not the best idea. I should be able to make consistent draws with no clips helping. I will keep practicing durring dry fire, but at a match i want to know my draws will be fast and smooth. I want to use this as an aid until i am comfortable with my holster. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digby7 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 i think if its binding you need to spend some more time getting it setup right for the way you draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 As long as you are meeting the holster requirements of your division, there should not be any problems with using a paper clip/kydex to hold it tighter. Just don't turn it into a thigh rig since there are strict rules on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donbryant993 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I had that same problem. What I ended up doing was tilting the grip more away from my body. Basically what that did was when I drew it tilted the holster back towards my body enough so there was zero bind. Its smooth as ever now. Also with more draws it will loosen up just enough to the point where binding is a non-issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hello: As stated above move the holster around till it releases smoothly. Mine works great and is very smooth even when others have tried it. I just moved the holster further back from advice from some friends and my draws are even faster now Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHX Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 I think i have the grip as far away as possible you think i should move it back towards me a little? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hello: Try moving the holster around a little and see how that works for you. Don't be affraid to try different settings to see what may work the best for you. I think Brain talks about this in his book also. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHX Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Aircooled6racer: when you say you moved it back do you mean you moved the holster on your belt closer to your hip, or did you tilt the grip back and keep the holster around pocket area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I think he means to move the entire holster around the belt towards your hip bone. I did that too since I use to have it more forward of my hip bone and it didn't work well for me. I also have my tilted out quite a bit from the inside from body to grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hello: Try moving the whole holster back towards your butt and tilt the muzzle slightly forward so the grip is flatter. Make sense? Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHX Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 If its not to much trouble could you guys post pics of how you have your rigs set up. Preferably with them on. Ill post mine tomorrow after a play with the location of the holster on my belt. Thanks!, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHX Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Makes sense. Thanks eric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpygravy Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I'll add this: When mine was brand new, I had significant binding as well and it had nothing to do with the holster position on my belt or waist. Although the holster insert is pretty close, I had to take needle file to mine to fit it to my trigger guard. How well does your gun release just pulling it from the holster if you're not wearing the whole rig? If you're getting a clean release then the rest is positioning like the others have suggested. I've found that ones draw needs to be pretty straight up out of the holster (in the same direction of the holster body - however you have it positioned) though it only takes .25-.50" at most to achieve release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMV Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) I'll add this: When mine was brand new, I had significant binding as well and it had nothing to do with the holster position on my belt or waist. Although the holster insert is pretty close, I had to take needle file to mine to fit it to my trigger guard. How well does your gun release just pulling it from the holster if you're not wearing the whole rig? If you're getting a clean release then the rest is positioning like the others have suggested. I've found that ones draw needs to be pretty straight up out of the holster (in the same direction of the holster body - however you have it positioned) though it only takes .25-.50" at most to achieve release. +1 The design of the "lock" around the trigger guard is such that if you do not lift straight up for the first portion of the draw, the gun will bind and not come out until you release tension and pull straight up. This occurs most often when on the clock and trying to go fast...ask me how I know. The best solution is to improve the mechanics of one's draw stroke. Edited January 30, 2012 by CMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) i think if its binding you need to spend some more time getting it setup right for the way you draw. This is the right answer ETA - this targets the CR Speed, but the only difference is exactly how you make the adjustments, not which adjustments to make http://re-gun.com/2009/08/setting-up-a-cr-speed-holster/ Edited January 30, 2012 by XRe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 i think if its binding you need to spend some more time getting it setup right for the way you draw. This is the right answer Guys, he already identified that he needed more practice/dryfire...the topic was the legality of the attachment. This might even be better in a rules section instead of the Gear & Accessories section... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Guys, he already identified that he needed more practice/dryfire...the topic was the legality of the attachment. This might even be better in a rules section instead of the Gear & Accessories section... Practice will not alleviate a poorly positioned/adjusted holster. He'll always bind the thing up if he doesn't get it set up correctly - particularly with the Race Master. If the holster is positioned correctly and secured on the belt, there won't be a need for the clip he describes. Funny that you're griping about a couple of us pointing this out and ignoring the OP's original question, when you've also contributed information about holster positioning, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Oooppppsssss...my bad guys. Thats what I get for replying to post after drinking a ton of Nyquil for my cold. I thought I read the "right answer" was practice. My apologies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Oooppppsssss...my bad guys. Thats what I get for replying to post after drinking a ton of Nyquil for my cold. I thought I read the "right answer" was practice. My apologies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHX Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 I figured it out! lumpygravy was correct. I was in my shop after work doing some dry fire and i kept binding in the holster. I took my belt off and slowly holstered and unholstered the gun while looking closely at what was happening. I kept feeling a small bit of pressure when holstering, then it released all of a sudden and it was fully seated in the holster. I decided to take the whole holster apart and examine how it worked. I thought there might be too tight of a fit on the front of the trigger guard where the latch hooks on. I fitted it and that wasnt an issue. I tried inserting the pistol in the plastic block with no mechanism and i was still feeling that tension and then it released. I looked closer and there was marks on the channel where the trigger guard rides. it was too narrow for my gun. I had been slowly chewing away the material, and the sticking point i was feeling was the plastic restricting my gun. I had always thought that was me forcing the latch on my trigger guard to lock it in place. Here is a pic of the material my trigger guard removed. So I took a small file and kept removing material from the channel till the gun went in smoothly. I reassembled and its amazing now. I wound up moving the holster a little closer to my butt, but its still very comfortable to draw from. Thanks all of you for your input and advice! Id be lost without it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hello: You may want to bring this to Saul's attension to see what he thinks. Glad you solved the problem. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpygravy Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 ... I decided to take the whole holster apart and examine how it worked. ... So I took a small file and kept removing material from the channel till the gun went in smoothly. That's exactly what I did too! Glad you got it working! Hello: You may want to bring this to Saul's attension to see what he thinks. Glad you solved the problem. Thanks, Eric I mentioned this to Saul either in his dealer forum here or on a post on the DAA/CED website - I don't remember which. In addition to fitting the block to the trigger guard, I had to do some filing/fitting on the sliding parts. Not all blocks will require this extra fitting, but if one chooses the RM, one should be prepared to address it. That said, I love mine and now that my limited gun is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, I get to use it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Looks like there's a lot of machining flash in the channel there, too. Mine definitely wasn't like that, but that's a good tip to check out if the holster isn't moving smoothly. I've cleaned mine out a couple of times, and it helps a bunch in keeping it operating smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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