BigMoosie Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I know this has been posted a 1000 times before, but I am bringing one of my S&Ws out of mothballs and want to give the trigger group a fresh lubing. Any recommendation as to what lube(s) to use? Many thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedodge Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 thin coat of light oil (synthetic motor oil) is all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I like white lithium grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneton Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 For the ones that I have done the triggers on I use rem oil. It works best to recoat between stages or every two stages if its hot out. for the guns that have stockish triggers I use clp on them. Or you could go the route one other guy here goes with and uses royal purple oil in his guns. 10w30 is what he uses I think. Jeremy Haridn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeerfieldCurly Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Jerry Asuming you are not pulling the side off....where do apply the lube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I use 5W30 full synthetic. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneton Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I drop it in from the hammer and the sides of the trigger with out taking the side plate off. Jeremy Hardin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 thin coat of light oil (synthetic motor oil) is all you need. Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I like white lithium grease. Incorrect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I drop it in from the hammer and the sides of the trigger with out taking the side plate off. Jeremy Hardin You really oil that much? I probably put a drop down each side of the hammer about once a year - maybe every 10-15k rounds? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneton Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 It was hot out and some long stages. The 625 I was using is a very well used. The oiling between stages became part of the routine same as cleaning the cylinder out. I don't think every one should do it like that. And I might be a little OCD with it but it worked for me. Now the guns I use with clp don't get oiled very often maybe every few months or so. Jeremy hardin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If I remember correctly Randy Lee from Apex put some kind of grease on the DA Sear, and I think on the Rebound Slide. Don't know what it was but I took it off and have settled on Rem Oil. Usually a couple of practice sessions before a big match I'll pull the grips and put a couple of drops on the Rebound Slide thru the back and then a few drops thru the top to the Sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If I remember correctly Randy Lee from Apex put some kind of grease on the DA Sear, and I think on the Rebound Slide. Don't know what it was but I took it off and have settled on Rem Oil. Usually a couple of practice sessions before a big match I'll pull the grips and put a couple of drops on the Rebound Slide thru the back and then a few drops thru the top to the Sear. Randy Lee? Grease? Looks like I'm in decent company I am thinking about trying the synthetic oil stuff. My grease works great in warm weather but hardens a bit in cold weather. Good thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchy Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I can tell you that Slide Glide should not be used on your revolver. My friend put some on his Randy Lee trigger and it stopped working. When we took it to Randy, he couldn't stop laughing. I still kid him about it. Like Carmoney pointed out, I'd stay with thin oils and away from greases. Seiichi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Try with a little bit of Ballistol oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 If I remember correctly Randy Lee from Apex put some kind of grease on the DA Sear, and I think on the Rebound Slide. Don't know what it was but I took it off and have settled on Rem Oil. Usually a couple of practice sessions before a big match I'll pull the grips and put a couple of drops on the Rebound Slide thru the back and then a few drops thru the top to the Sear. Correct! I know I'm going to incur the Wrath of Carmoney with this but I called Randy and he uses Lubriplate #105. Look here but you can probably get it at the local auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I know I'm going to incur the Wrath of Carmoney with this....." My New Year's resolution is to be a nicer BE Forum poster, so I'll leave a nice smiley-face right after I say this: Ignore my advice at your own peril! Seriously, guys, I've taken apart a lot of S&W revolvers, OK? More than most people have, right? Can we agree on that? I've seen every kind of gun grease you can imagine gunked into the actions on these things, and believe me, you do not want that crap inside your action. Grease attracts and holds all kinds of nastiness, and it always eventually stiffens up into a sticky mess. A well-tuned revo action needs very little lubrication, and a few drops of light synthetic motor oil is everything you need. All of this is especially true, by the way, if you live in a northern climate where you might decide to take your gun out into the cold weather now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 By the way, for a long time it was mostly red grease I was cleaning out of people's guns. More recently it's tended to be the white stuff like the Lubriplate. I attribute that change to the increasing popularily of cream pie fetish internet porn among revolver shooters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwana Six-Gun Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I use a synthethic called Tri-Flow that is a teflon based lube that cyclist use on their gears shifters. never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 snipped...I've seen every kind of gun grease you can imagine gunked into the actions on these things, and believe me, you do not want that crap inside your action. Grease attracts and holds all kinds of nastiness, and it always eventually stiffens up into a sticky mess. This is a fact. I just threw away about $10 worth of a partial tube of Amsoil Racing Grease. As far as I know it's the best grease man has ever formulated and if it will turn to an almost solid chunk after sitting in my garage for about 8 years, I have no doubt that all lesser greases will. I do have a fresh tube for my Garand and M1A though. I either use synthetic motor oil like Carmoney has stated or I've been using Ballistol of late and liking it pretty well. Seems to be really good against corrosion. My carry guns held up great this summer and it was a scorcher with 110 degrees temps seeming to be the new norm. Add that I sweat like a pig anyway and you can see a real problem. Didn't have any problems at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I have a friend who uses Quantum Hot Sauce (Liquid) reel lubricant in actions on vintage Smiths and it seems to work well. I don't know how it would hold up to the kind of shooting we do and at $8 for a little bottle I am not willing to find out. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjanglin Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I use at times Lubriplate engine assemly lube, it is very light and I mostly use it on new builds,Gives the guns a chance to wear in smooth and less likely to gaul and have rough wear spots. been using it since my days in the amorys during the Nam years. I do use sythetic motoroil most of the time by itself. Amsoil cause I use it in my truck. I get a lot of 1911 types in that are not cleaned and lubed properly and this usually costs the customer repairs that wouldnt be if the guns were maintained properly. As far as my wheel guns go I do lube and clean them on a regular basis. Jim Sailors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flycaster Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 "I attribute that change to the increasing popularily of cream pie fetish internet porn among revolver shooters." Sir, you make that sound rather negative! Seriously, thanks for all your input. I'm a relatively newish wheelgunner, and appreciate expert advice. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I use RemOil on the internals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoSteel Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Pricey but worth it (Krytox 100 Oil). You'll never go back, Just a dab will do it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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