Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

1050 primer size change question

Recommended Posts

I just received parts to change my .45 ACP S1050 to .38 special. I foolishly expected that the "1050 small primer system" would include an upper primer assembly - Body shield, and the lever arm assembly. My thought was that I would unbolt the two hex screws holding my .45 upper assembly on in one piece, change the slide and punch parts, than bolt on the complete small primer upper assembly. I could leave the lever arm assemblies alone once set for a quick change.

Has anyone bought the parts to do the primer change as an assembly? Am I missing something in my understanding of how the upper works/is adjusted? Am I not really saving time/frustration if I were to buy those parts to do this? I understand the advantage of changing individual parts would be saving money and giving me a chance to detail clean the assembly but I really would like to have the more convenient primer change.

How do you experienced 1050 owners do this? I imagine the same situation could apply for any of the machines in the progressive line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think buying the upper assembly will really save you any time. You shouldn't even need to remove the upper assembly to change from large to small priming systems.

  1. Remove the toolhead and shell plate
  2. Use the bushing driver (or make your own from a flat bladed screwdriver) to remove priming punch bushing, then remove priming punch. Replace punch and bushing with new size
  3. Remove 13955 lower plate screw and 13108 primer slide stop
  4. Swap out primer slide
  5. Adjust 13226 rocker arm set screw so priming punch is *just* below flush from the priming bushing, so the primer slide is smooth and doesnt catch on the priming punch.
  6. Replace 13108 primer slide stop and 13955 lower plate screw
  7. Remove low primer sensor and magazine shield cap, swap out primer magazine tube
  8. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin from bottom of swage rod assembly
  9. Remove swage cover
  10. Fumble with swage connecting rod spinning it around and moving back and forth till you can get the swage rod out
  11. Replace swage rod, swage cover, swage connecting rod, clevis pin, and cotter pin
  12. Replace shellplate and toolhead
  13. RELOAD
  14. Profit.

It seems like a lot of steps, but once you do it a few times you get the hang of it and its really not that big of a deal

Edited by kalaur
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No biggie at all.

You need to change the inner primer tube, the primer slide, and the primer punch. That is it, period.

When you get your new primer slide, clean out the raceway on the machine and put the new slide in. Now push it back and forth. If you feel any resistance see where it is rubbing. Take some high grit 1200 wet dry paper and polish the bejeezus out of it. It should slide back and forth with no resistance.

If you are ordering, order some extra primer punch springs as they can break and give you no warning. Not often, but if you don't have any spares you will have to wait....

Good luck,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

  • Create New...