.223 problems

[kamikaze1a]

Have you determined if it is the bullet or the brass that is binding? In your op you said the bullets were getting pulled by the extractor. Is that still that case?

Try smoking the neck, shoulder and bullet if you can't tell where it is touching. Or color with a black marker the neck/shoulder/bullet and look for the interference marks.

If bullet, seat shorter. If neck, trim shorter. If shoulder, screw sizer down...

[ss+P]

dam and you trim your brass to 1.750. that seems a little long. i will try your routine and see if i get any better results

[ss+P]

Thanks for your help and input. unfortunatly none of it worked. So this weekend i started trying to get my ar to chamber my rounds again.

I started by trimming 5 pieces of brass 1.740 then resizing and making them dummy rounds(i marked the bottom of the case so i knew which ones they where), then i resized 5pieces of brass and trimmed them to 1.750 and marked them. i then tried to chamber them and 5 of them got stuck and 5 worked, but there was no way i would have been able to press check them. they still got stuck a little.

Next i re-read the forum post and tried something new. I did everything i did above, but this time i screwed my resizing die down to the plate plus 1/4 turn down. i didn't use the same brass i kept getting new/used brass. this time i added 5 dummy rounds to the mix and didn't trim these at all. i pretty much had the same results 50/50. the 7 that ejected where just a little easier. but still would not have been able to press check them.

during this whole process i noticed that some of the bullets where just falling into the cases. a friend had a neck sizer and suggested trying it, i mean at this point what the hell couldn't hurt. last night i necked sized 10 cases, I DIDN'T TRIM OR DO ANYTHING ELSE. Success it worked perfectly, just as the the dam thing should. i could press check them, eject them perfectly and everything else.

So DUDE, RIGGER JJ: i DON'T have to trim, i just have to neck size all my brass

[ss+P]

dam and you trim your brass to 1.750. that seems a little long. i will try your routine and see if i get any better results

i guess 1.750 wasn't long. i miss read this like an idiot. my bad

[D.Hayden]

...but this time i screwed my resizing die down to the plate plus 1/4 turn down

You should be adjusting the sizing die with a case gauge

You should listen to JJ..

On trimming.. different cases stretch differently.. not all will be greater that max, but some will be.. if you don't check them all.. eventually you'll get burned. Most people here... probably just trim all their brass, some may not get trimmed at all, some a little, some a lot...

On rifle brass.. you must trim, or measure each case individually, and just load those within specs

[RiggerJJ]

...but this time i screwed my resizing die down to the plate plus 1/4 turn down

You should be adjusting the sizing die with a case gauge

You should listen to JJ..

On trimming.. different cases stretch differently.. not all will be greater that max, but some will be.. if you don't check them all.. eventually you'll get burned. Most people here... probably just trim all their brass, some may not get trimmed at all, some a little, some a lot...

On rifle brass.. you must trim, or measure each case individually, and just load those within specs

+1 D!

(if you are loading for some wildcat chamber, ignore everything)

FOR 223 OR 5.56;

FULL LENGTH SIZE FIRST, TRIM TO 1.175, CHECK IN DILLON CASE GUAGE, LOAD TO 2.250

simple as that...

I tried...good luck dude...

jj

Edited January 25, 2012 by RiggerJJ

[pjb45]

It has been awhile since I loaded my .223 on my 1050. If I remember correctly, one one tool head, I decamped, sized then trimmed. I would say the AOL was generally the same for all different kinds of head stamps.

On the second toolhead, I repeated the sizing, primed, powered, seated, crimped.

My chrono numbers were pretty consistent.

Next time I will just buy my brass from Scharch and forget the first part. Way too much of a hassle for me using two tool heads.

[FishingFool]

Are you using a full length sizing die? What bullets did you buy?

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Edited January 25, 2012 by FishingFool

[ss+P]

i do listen to you guys that is why i posted. I did listen to JJ i just had a slight problem with the tone of the dude comment. if you re-read the post before he said dude,i was agreeing that i need to trim and was trying to figure out the process. i took the tone of his response as "you idiot that is what i said re-read the previous posts". it was more a question of what is your process which he answered in his latest post: deprime/resize and then trim to length.

Even though i don't have to trim i am still planning on trimming when i can afford a good trimmer.

Trim or no Trim i was still having the problem of not being able to unload the gun without beating the butt on ground while holding the charging handle so there was still another problem with the reloads other than the length of my brass. that was fixed by neck sizing.

Here is another question, for those of you who neck size or have neck sized do i have to have the depriming pin in place. Since i have to both neck size and trim it would be awesome and time saving if i could use one tool head to neck size and full length resize. then trim and then load. On the 550b there is only one station that will allow for the depriming pin to push through the shell plate. If i could remove the depriming pin on either the neck sizer or the full length resizer i could do both before i trim.

Rigger JJ please respond and just leave out the "dude" part.

[FishingFool]

You can leave the pin out.

Sent using Tapatalk

[D.Hayden]

I'd still suggest.. use a case gauge to set your dies. I'd guess the brass isn't sized correctly.. you don't want to oversize or undersize...

There's a small step on the case gauge, the the sized brass should sit between when it's sized properly..

Look here: http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Accessory-Manual-May-2007.pdf

Page 7 (using the page numbers)

[ss+P]

cool, once again thanks for the help.

do you use the case guage on every piece of brass or just the first few to make sure it is set correct.

[D.Hayden]

I use it to setup the die... after that... you might spot check a few - but these days.. once I know it's all setup.. I do the whole batch

After they're loaded.. I may case gauge my match ammo.. the more I spent to shoot that match, the more I check

[mpeltier]

set your sizer to the shell plate then screw it IN 1/4 turn FURTHER

jj

Do this if you have not already. I read in your post that you backed it off a 1/4 turn. Dillon sizing die must be adjusted to cam-over. If not they will be improperly sized. And case gage check every round.

And I must be the lucky one cause I never trim cases for my AR's. Thousands and thousands of rounds thru many AR's and never a problem. Is it even possible for the case to grow longer than your chamber?

[ss+P]

yeah i got a case stuck in my dillon die so i am using an rcbs resizing die. i have screwed it all the way down.

i don't know if it is possible for a case to grow longer than the length of the chamber, but i would guess yes.

I measured a case before sizing it and then after and it grew about .005 to .010. so i guess if you shoot that same piece of brass w/o sizing it it could grow to the size of your chamber and then when you resize it grow longer than the chamber.

yeah know that i have figured out that i have to next size my brass i haven't had to trim yet, but i am planning on it when i can get a high efficient trimmer.

[dmc_md]

I hate to beat a dead horse, but from your description it sounds like your bullet seater die is the problem.

If your full length sizer die is not set up right, the shoulder on the case will prevent it from chambering. That's why you have to push the shoulder back with the sizing die.

If you don't trim your cases, the neck of the case will get pushed into the lands. This squishes the case neck around the bullet. This significantly tightens the hold on the bullet which will increase pressure when the round is fired. This is the reason we trim these cases -- to prevent an explosion.

If your powder measure is set too low it will mushroom the neck and cause the case not to chamber.

If your bullet seating die is not correct, it can also mushroom the case. See above.

The real problem is that you're using a 50 grain bullet set to the length you would normally use for a 77 grain. For a 50 grain bullet, you're not going to get enough contact with the case neck when they're loaded out to 2.260. When I loaded 55gr, I was at an OAL of about 2.23 if I remember correctly.

You need to check your resized brass in a case gauge to make sure it's right. Do this after you size it, run it thought the powder measure (empty the powder out), and run it through the bullet seater die without a bullet. If it's still right in the case gauge, your dies are set up right. If your dies are right, it's an OAL problem.

By the way, I don't crimp 223. I think it's unnecessary. But if you do, you should run the case through the crimp die too.

Darren