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Mosberg 930 Issues


EvilBetty

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I have a new Mossberg 930 I bought during one of Cheaper than Dirt's sales.

When I first got it I took it to the range, just to fire it a bit. Put a box rounds of Federal and Remington (Wal-Mart 100pk 2 3/4", 1 1/8th 7.5oz stuff) though it without an issue.

I brought it home put my Nordic +5 tube on it. Using Remington dummy rounds began practicing my reloads. I noticed that the 9th and sometimes even the 8th and 7th shell loaded in the mag tube would not release from the mag tube when racking the gun. I took the the tube back off and set it back up with the stock spring and cap. Still the 4th round loaded into the tube would rarely release from the tube when racking.

After unloading those offending rounds with the button and by pressing in on the shell, I would continue to rack the gun till empty and would find that 1 out of every three rounds were not ejecting out of the gun. The bolt would lock back with the next round on the lifter, pressed up against the FTE round, sometimes still in the grip of the ejector, sometimes just floating in the receiver. Other times I would get a double feet from the mag tube.

I took the gun apart, cleaned the crap out of it, lubed it sparingly, and reassembled. Same problems.

I put the gun back together with the Nordic tube and headed out to my folks to shoot. I dumped 100 rounds through the gun (same ammo as above) without a single problem, as long as I started with loaded chamber. If I tried to rack the 9th (first) round manually, it usually would not load from the tube.

When I was done I loaded the gun back up and tried manually cycling these same rounds. Same issue, 9th, 8th, 7th... usually wouldn't load and once every 3 or 4 rounds it will FTE.

We're not new to new self loading shotguns, and my dad had a plethora of other ammo brands and models to try. No matter what size, brand, or type we loaded, it all did the same thing.

I've cut down a spare spring to the point where it will just barely pop the last round from the tube, and still the first rounds will rarely rack.

I've sanded the inside edge of the stock tube to eliminate any catch point between it and where the Nordic tube mates(and again this happens with the stock setup).

I've reformed the end of the Nordic spring to provide a nice square face to the follower to maybe eliminate any tilting (and again, this happens with the stock spring).

If I contact Mossberg they will probably tell me to mail it in, and with my luck probably not find the problem and mail it back as is. Before I do that I'd like to try to diagnose this myself but could use some help on where to look for the problem.

I've got to think something is acting up around the shell stop but it seems move as expected (as much as I can tell not having another one to compare it to).

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I had a 930 spx that hated to chamber the rounds manually by cycling the bolt, I think the manual even said to drop a round in the open chamber and hit the release. In your manual it even says that is how the firearm is to be loaded. Mine ran great for a short time and I actually ended up selling it to an LEO who has recently had nothing but problems with it and ended up sending it in for work. Failure to feeds were very common as was double feeding which loading the next round and throwing the round after that into the dirt at the same time or just jammed up the action.

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First off.....you don't seem to be having a problem with your shells coming out of the tube (factory tube), it appears that you have an extractor/ejector issue. The shell coming out of the chamber is not ejecting out of the receiver. The extractor seems to be pulling the shell out of the chamber, so you might have an issue with the ejector....could be both? Hard to totally diagnose from a video.

CHeck to see if the extractor has the tip broke off, or the spring on the extractor may be weak....or you might be missing the plunger that actually pushes on the extractor (not sure if it is the same as a Remington extractor set up).

On the ejector....I'm only going to guess on this. If it is steaked in the receiver...see if it rounded off or broke.

When you do get your shotgun back from Mossberg on that issue......you will need to order a new spring for your Nordic Extension. The instructions that come with the tube call for the spring to be cut 10 to 16 inches longer than the entire tube assembly (factory tube + extension). you are not loading the 7th, 8th and 9th round with the Nordic Tube on due to the fact that your spring was cut down way too short.

Tim

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First off.....you don't seem to be having a problem with your shells coming out of the tube (factory tube)

I am, 4th round won't load 1 out of every 4 or 5 times... it just didn't happen in the video.

On the ejector....I'm only going to guess on this. If it is steaked in the receiver...see if it rounded off or broke.

It is part of the receiver. It has some marks on it but otherwise looks fine.

When you do get your shotgun back from Mossberg on that issue......you will need to order a new spring for your Nordic Extension. The instructions that come with the tube call for the spring to be cut 10 to 16 inches longer than the entire tube assembly (factory tube + extension). you are not loading the 7th, 8th and 9th round with the Nordic Tube on due to the fact that your spring was cut down way too short.

Tim

I still have my Nordic spring uncut. I am using a Choate spring to diagnose. I assure you it's not a weak spring issue. It was doing it worse when the spring was longer.

What dummy rounds are you using? I had some that got stuck like that after a while of practice. I know this does not solve the other issues but something to think about.

Remington Dummy Rounds. Does the same thing with multiple brands and models of live rounds.

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Junk the choate spring. Switch to the Nordic, I had probs using a choate. The choate is thicker/stiffer, and not the same spring rate.

The choate in order to feed reliably, has to be cut too short for the last remaining shells to feed reliably.

Also try switching back to the factory follower if using the orange choate, I think they are slightly undersized and will bind. I found that when loading, the first 3 or 4 shells would be really stiff, switched followers back to the factory metal and no problems. Plus with the plastic follower every time the tube empties it hits the shell stop, marring it each time.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk

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Junk the choate spring. Switch to the Nordic, I had probs using a choate. The choate is thicker/stiffer, and not the same spring rate.

The choate in order to feed reliably, has to be cut too short for the last remaining shells to feed reliably.

Also try switching back to the factory follower if using the orange choate, I think they are slightly undersized and will bind. I found that when loading, the first 3 or 4 shells would be really stiff, switched followers back to the factory metal and no problems. Plus with the plastic follower every time the tube empties it hits the shell stop, marring it each time.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk

I should be clear that I've used 3 mag springs so far, the Nordic (uncut) the OEM with spacer, and the Choate cut down to increasingly smaller lengths. I'm using the factory follower. I don't want to cut down the Nordic spring until I get the issue resolved.

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The shells eject fine when shooting right?

Your hand cycling in these videos is weak; your hand is coming off the bolt as you get to the rear, for the shell to hit the ejector the bolt must be firmly cycled to the rear. Hold on to the bolt and make sure it goes swiftly to the rear. Not loading shells is normal, some do, some don't, a Nordic spring cut to the short end of the correct length is your best bet. Shiny brass shells seem to hand load the best over dummy rounds.

If your gun shoots OK with decent ammo it is no different than any other 930.

Nothing wrong with your gun.

David E.

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The shells eject fine when shooting right?

Your hand cycling in these videos is weak; your hand is coming off the bolt as you get to the rear, for the shell to hit the ejector the bolt must be firmly cycled to the rear. Hold on to the bolt and make sure it goes swiftly to the rear. Not loading shells is normal, some do, some don't, a Nordic spring cut to the short end of the correct length is your best bet. Shiny brass shells seem to hand load the best over dummy rounds.

If your gun shoots OK with decent ammo it is no different than any other 930.

Nothing wrong with your gun.

David E.

Yes, fine when shooting.

Alright I went back and VERY aggressively cycled the gun. I've never needed to cycling a self loading shotgun this hard before, but I admit the gun is functioning better when done this way. But I really have to slam the bold back HARD, and even then every once it an while one is hanging up in there.

As far as the mag tube, this is happening stock as well, with the cap and stock spring. I found that if I used a little rubber mallet and tapped the bolt release button I could get that stuck round to feed every time, but pushing it will never release a round that didn't feed cycling the bolt, no matter how hard I cycle the bolt.

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This is not for gunsmiths or others that are feint of heart when it comes to beating, banging, and grinding on their own guns.

This is how I got my 930 to hand cycle.

1. Fluff and buff the shell holder. To remove the shell holder there is a small clip inside a slot in the receiver.

2. Slide the clip towards the butt stock.

1-2-2012006.jpg

3. With the retaining clip removed, push the pin out from the top. Note-the retaining clip is laying just below to bolt release button.

1-2-2012010.jpg

4. Polish the shell holder tip and remove other sharp edges.

1-2-2012013.jpg

5. I stretched the spring to .450 and after using it for about 6 months it is at .432.

1-2-2012014.jpg

Next the mag tube and spring.

It is my opinion that a longer tube, +5, +6 and a spring cut to 10” past the tube will allow you to hand cycle easily with 8 rounds in the tube which would be a normal empty chamber start. As you reach the capacity of your mag tube the spring rate goes up fast. Having this extra capacity minimizes this effect.

It is my opinion that the mag tube spring tension and friction on the shell to shell holder tip hinder hand cycling.

So to combat this you can make the shell holder spring stronger, polish the shell holder and minimize mag spring tension.

This worked on my gun and it now easily hand cycles with 8 rounds in the tube with either a Nordic +5 or +6 extension. I think I have a video of hand cycling 10 rounds from my plus +6 set-up and will add it when I find/upload it.

I make no guarantees on these modifications, use at your own risk.

If you don't want to stretch the spring, a good disassembly, cleaning, fluff and buff, lubrication may improve you gun's hand cycling.

David E.

Good Luck! (I don't believe in luck!)

Edited by Nuke8401
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Two videos of my 930 hand cycling 10 rounds with my +6 Nordic tube. The 10th round is a tight fit using the Nordic follower.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qBHEJ9sqlE

This second video is how not to hand cycle a 930

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLBk6czzNKE

Maybe I'm just lucky but with the work described above I can easily hand cycle with 10 in the tube.

David E.

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  • 3 months later...
Quick question, how hard was it to get that cotter pin back into the gun after you are done "fluffing and buffing"?

The easiest way is to just slide the cotter pin off the pin and leave it in the machined slot. But if you do take it out, no big deal, the slot is just wider than the pin so the pin stays put in the slot once installed and you just have to slide it back onto the pin. I do remember having to push the pin up and down a little to align the clip grove with the slot. I would imagine you could get it in the perfect position with a small mirror and flashlight if needed. Before you remove the clip and pin, look at the pin depth in the hole from the bottm, this will give you some idea how far to insert the pin on reassembly.

& Nuke can we have a pic of your forearm next to the loading port? & any info you have on blending the two together.

I'll see if I have some/take some photos. At first I just cut about 1/4" off the forearm but without blending it was hard to load as it kept my hand from sliding forward past the loading port when loading. I did it on a belt sander clamped into a vice.

Another thing about the shell holder coil spring, I seem to remember it should only be installed one way on the shell holder. The size of the spring on one end makes it a tight fit to the recess on the holder and prevents it from falling out during assembly.

David E.

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Thanks, got it all fluffed and buffed. The one I was working on had a +5 tube on it. I went 10" past the end of the extension with the spring and it still didn't want to feed that first round half the time with 9 in the tube. I was using dummy ammo and the bases were a little chingered up though.

We'll see how it runs live...

ETA the cotter pin was real easy to put back in, a lot easier than the pin that holds the shell latch.

Edited by shooting for M
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  • 10 years later...

This sounds stupid but my 930 loads 1st round better if muzzle is pointed downward when racking bolt,don't know why. It's a home security with Nordic extension,7 +1. Also fixed "fatal flaw" with a gg&g shell stop and Beretta 1301 extended bolt release and shroud.

Edited by Tummytuck
Added info
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