New to reloading (got XL650 for Christmas)

[TimG_SC]

I just finished setting up my press and I'm not sure how much to crimp the case after seating bullet. The manual wasn't very clear on this.

[BritinUSA]

Use a set of calipers to measure a factory round and use that as a guideline. Start off with no crimp and lower the die a little bit at a time until you get the same crimp that you find on factory ammo. Always ensure that you keep a case in Station 1 as this sets the level of the platform for each location.

[AlamoShooter]

The old thing was that the bullets would "jump" around in the mag or revolver cylinder during recoil. Thats not normally a big problem. What I do is take my loads when I just set my die and see if I can push the loaded bullet into the case by hand pressure against the edge of the table. If they don't sink in I am happy with the first test. Thin #2 is take the Kinetic bullet puller and see how many wackes it takes to dislodge the bullet and "IF" the pulled bullet has a ring on it from the crimp. If the bullet has any ring visible or to the feel I lighten up on the crimp.

Rifle bullets in the big 40+ 223 mags will jump around and lock up our mags at the worst time in a match.

most saine handgun loads are fine in the mag, some of our Majior Open loads would play heck in a 170 mag

Edited December 28, 2011 by AlamoShooter

[Sarge]

with pistol loads just adjust the crimp to remove the bell. A typical 9mm will be around .376-.378 or so. Contrary to popular belief crimp does not hold a bullet in place. As a matter of fact too much crimp can actually lessen the case neck tension.

[sroe3]

I crimp to .378. Doesn't leave a mark on Precision moly coated bullets. The rule of thumb is the diameter of the bullet plus twice the thickness of the brass case.

[noylj]

You don't need a caliper.

Again, did you read "ABCs of Reloading" and another manual? What did they say to do? I'll bet a caliper was never mentioned.

Use a factory round and turn the crimp down until it just contacts the factory round. This will give you the same crimp that the factory determined was best for "all" guns of that caliber

Or,

Look at the case mouth and SEE if there is still a flare/bell remaining

Or,

Look at the case mouth and SEE if there is a shiny ring around it from the crimp

Or,

Feel along the bullet ogive to the case mouth. There should be a relatively smooth transition and your finger should not feel the case mouth flare

Or,

Remove your barrel and drop in the round. Does it go "CLUNK" and the case head is flush or just below where the barrel contacts the breech?

Turn the barrel over. Does the round fall into your hand?

If so, things are good to go.

Or,

mark the bullet ogive and around the case mouth with a Magic Marker. Drop into barrel and rotate back-and-forth. Scraps will show if the flare/bell is rubbing against the chamber.

[BEEZE]

WOW THANK YOU SANTA ,factory rounds can be your best friend for set up.I use my barrels to ck finished rounds .To much crimp isn't any good .pull finshed rounds and ck boolits

[sdm74]

I also take my thumb to rear of cartridge and push nose of bullet into my wooden work bench. Then I check OAL to see if it has changed.